High-End Wheel Owners (CSW V2 and Above) Please Chime In - Experiences, Info, Reviews

When you're fighting static torque, the wheel inertia does not matter. But when it comes to the dynamic torque, without good personal experience of this though to be honest, i can imagine that a change in inertia can have a fairly significant affect on the ffb steering response and representation of the sim steering wheel behaviour. Without going into detail, this of course stems from the fact we use the conventional feedback loop method of torque signal to wheel and position feedback back to sim instead of the other way around (which would make steering wheel inertia an irrelevancy provided your motor is still powerful enough to drive it without alternative feedback loop clipping in the sim driving envelope). But i digress.

Good chance though speed your right for his bodnar. I.e. take a formula rim and make it twice as high in rotational inertia and it may very well not make a significant change in the steering response. However do the same on mainstream ffb wheels and there is a noticeable difference in ffb response when feeling the ffb as the steering wheel rotates (i.e. dynamic torque).

 

Yes ofc mate in the sense of ffb it can compensate the lack of Nm with the low power wheels and in the sense of simulating and controling the unit, it ofc is more accurate when taking it into account, but as i said, with enough Nm, he for sure wan't feel a diff because of the little weight diff. Radial speed due to the diameter he may can feel first before any little weight diff, the may he would feel first when it was in the double digits.

 

cheers , I can pretty much guess the theory , was wondering if any one actually had a heavy wheel + a light wheel to to give an opinion

(I like to go light weight as a preference anyhow, one of the reasons I'm now custom making my own wheel/attachments/levers etc, my usual wheels with all the attachments are unnecessarily heavy )

 

Pretty much what i'm saying, altough my experience is based on the real thing, but i think it counts for the powerfull ffb wheels as well, where the weaker systems may are more sensitive to.

 

Are there any guys around here that can give me their thoughts and views on the Fanatetc CSW V2 specifically in rFactor 2 (my, by far, sim of choice), and also GSCE if you play that as well? I've watched quite a few CSW V2 videos and it honestly looks less powerful than the T500RS even though the CSW V2 is apparently capable of around 7.3Nm of torque VS around 5.5Nm for the T500RS. The CSW V2 also surprisingly looks slower in rotation speed than the T500RS.

Maybe I'm just judging badly because it's a video VS the feeling in my hands, but with regards to top-speed (eg. when you let go of the wheel during oversteer, "drifting", etc.) the CSW V2 really looks a lot slower than the T500RS...

 

I only have the GT2 rim for the CSW V2, but even with this pretty heavy rim the wheel is fast and precise enough for me. Very fast movements are a little bit dampened because of the weight, but enabling drift mode even to 1 is easily enough to compensate for that i think. Yesterday, i did about an hour on 150 force (sadly the max with newest drivers) and multiplier 1 in the asr f1 91, and i guess for most people these forces are too much over time. The air blowin out after that felt only slightly warm, so i guess there is a lot of safety margin in terms of the motor.

Sadly i can't compare directly to the T500RS, as i only tested that one back in rF1, but i would say that the Fanatec is as fast as the Thrustmaster, but offers more subtle feedback and more overall power.

 

I upgraded from a T500 to a CSW V2 and find the FFB much stronger than previously. I have done a race with high forces and at the end of the race had pins and needles in my hands and that has never happened before with the T500.

In rfactor2 you need to fine tune the FFB and also run the pedal overlay to make sure there are no clipping.

 

Not sure for what ever reason you like to switch to the csw v2, other than because of some QA diff of the used material or some flexibility with the addons, but in my opinion it isn't worth the extra costs.

Also i don't know what you except from but the ffb of the free to play title of Reiza feels very good balanced and feels very realistic with the t500rs to me on low ffb effects, as it is fast enough to controle the car right. So i think is GSC but i don't know for sure because i'm not using it.

I was surprised how good it actually feels to me,when considering it isn't using a next gen ffb and is just the pre ISI engine, but it seems those guys know there job well.

Uncase your t500rs and tighten the main drive belt by loosen the motor screws and pull the motor back to the max possible position. Use something to hold it and ......... sorry don't know how it calls but t mean the opposite of loosen the screws.

After doing this you have to optimize the second belt by loosen the tension pulley screws and balance the tension whithout to increase the pressure on the belt to much to avoid friction. Optimal is if they just touch the belt with a very low pressure.

If you do this right you will have a different wheel. And dont forget to check the 4 screws of the steering axle where the serial connector is mounted on, because they loosen themself over the time. Use loctide.

And before it means i would be off topic, have some patience and see if the IONI drive will be something for you as well or contact Dennis and buy a OSW.

 

Wow, i just checked my laps... my driving style would definitely break my wrists !
I want a OSW !

 

Does anyone know if the Accuforce Pro is using a brushless DC motor or AC motor? If it's brushless DC, that'll explain the noticeable low speed cogging effect with high and high (with peaks enabled) settings (as shown in a review with videos linked to by Juergen on page 2 of thread: here).

Whilst Bodnar is definitely an AC motor and won't/doesn't suffer from this effect.

The effect is not controller driven but rather a hardware issue. With AC, you get the smoothness of a skewed brushed DC motor but with all the pro's of being brushless (better heat dissipation, higher speeds, less maintenance, no RF noise, quieter, etc). Best of both worlds.

 

In this 3D: http://www.racingfr.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=49379
someone said it's a stepper motor that in my opinion COULD explain the cogging.
If it's really a stepper...well...to me it's a NO-NO for that price.

That 3D is also much relevant for people who want to build an OSW with the IONI driver.

 

Thank you for the link man.

About the motor of the AF, i 've seen a picture the shows 4 wires at the motor which are mostly bipolar stepper if i'm not wrong.

AC motors have 3 phase wire at the powerside and up to a 12 Pin data wires, depending on the features, such as brake, temp sensing etc.

 

Ah-ha, that would explain the observations well.

 

Than we`re talking about a motor for ~ 70$ ??? This is really a surprise...

 

View attachment 16660

I got my AF wheel last month. I have not got a chance to use it yet. Still need to order the mount bracket to figure how to mount on my rig. Anyhow, I did open and look around. I could not give any comments on the performance of this wheel yet, but some observation I can share with you.
1) the motor, cables, and connectors seems not industry standard like others. They look cheap though; IMHO, for $1800, it is way OVER price.
2) When I turn the motor, I hear "step sound" and feel "brush-like" resist.
3) 24 DC power supply unit is from China. I attached the photo of control PCB. On the top shown in the image, there are two USB ports. On right of the photo, there are two ports connect to the motor. The black one is the Analog Input port: Molex 09142008. The white one is the power connect port for the motor, which has only 5-pin. (5-pin only, shown 6-pin, but one is not used).


View attachment 16661

 

Well...70$ for the Motor, maybe annother 300$ for Electronics, Power Supply, Cables and Screws...maybe 20$ for the Housing, 80$ for the Wheel, 100$ for Assembling, Packaging and Coffee Good amount of Profit.

 

AC usually has 4 wires. 3+1 ground. And my mige has 4 wires + the wires for the encoder.

 

True that, i've forgot about the ground. My fault, sorry.

So we are back at the beginning, and don't know for sure which sort of motor it is.

 

It very may well be.

Could you (try to) count the number of discrete steps in one revolution please?

Could it possibly be this motor? http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/hi...pper-motor-13nm1841ozin-34hs595004s-p-57.html

Does the AF Pro power supply have a label which states voltage and current outputs to the motor? If so, what are they please.


Update: Ok, it's looking bloody likely to be the same motor as the AF Pro. Why? Because i rewatched the Sim Racing Garage review where barry weighed the motor alone and it came to 11.63 pounds = 5.27kg. The weight spec of the 13Nm stepper motor in the above link states 5.3kg.

So not only do they look identical, they also have same peak torques and exact same weights. Pretty confident it's the one.

Wow, someone is laughing to the bank even if the motor does a decent job.

So, assuming this is the correct motor and sold at bulk price listed on that website, each motor costs 3.5% of each sale price. Or another way to look at it, the retail price to buy 29 of these motors is the same as 1 Accuforce Pro.

 

Hi DrR1pper:

Yes, it is stepper motor. The label on the motor shows 1.8 degree (step angle), which is same as that you showed in the link. Servo motor has no such attribute on spec.
It looks very similar as the one you showed in the link, especially the lines of core Laminations are stacked. Servo motor will not have such lines to show. AF motor on the bottom attached the Encoder.
In the link, the encoder is not included. Anyhow, I am not sure if they exactly same motor or not, but very similar though (could be from same manufacture). The AF motor marked 9.5A (peak step current?), though, which seems pretty high. But again, the board uses 24 volts only, while the one shown in the link uses lower (phase) current but higher voltage. I will assume the wattage could be same.