If that is standard for the new version it looks and is solved very cheap, while the previous solution was not any better.
The new unit was available with the GT5 box too. About the cooling ribs yeah, they removed the heatsink for the new unit. I guess they're using that way as there wasn't any good air medium inside the unit to make the heatsink working properly and the huge amount of plastic all around didn't help the heat/air medium exchange at all. A heatsink needs a good air medium to dissipate the thermal energy, if there is not enough medium is like putting your laptop under the bedspread. Let me say that heatsink was working more like a wall and a heat trap than a dissipation medium. Now, without it, there is a sort of direct and straight flow using the left/bottom vent as a air intake and top holes as a outtake and it's working way better for me. I remember well my previous unit (with the heatsink and the top fan) was reaching crazy temperatures. The plastic was VERY hot all the time as for the motor. All this stuff now has gone.
Ha...ironic, putting in a heatsink only to the detriment of heat dissipation. How that slipped past testing.....
Im that guy. I have bought my T500RS two weeks ago. The outer carton box says: EU Version // 2013-12-07. The inner box is blue with the GT6 print. The fan is a Chiefly CC6015S12M: http://www.chiefly-choice.com.tw/fans/uploads/122939245975j0n.pdf The fan still produces a high pitch sound, but im wearing a headset during racing so i do not hear the fan. On top of the T500 case on both sides the plastic is perforated. On the left side i attached a 60mm 12v fan for intake and on the right side a 120mm fan as outtake. I attached both fans with duct tape, as i do not want to drill holes in the cover....yet. Just as i bought the T500 i saw the YT vid of the accuforce....bummer! I wait for this wheel and its price. Depending on the price i will replace the T500. SO far, comming from a G27 i must say that im impressed with the T500 so far. I should have gone to belt driven much earlier. Now im able to ride and take kerbs without this annoying rattle from the gears.
I have read most of this topic although i lost it completely with those hardcore FFB masters and their stunning graphs. I wished i could understand all that technical talk. Next to that i also read disturbing post of people shouting around that rF2 has fake FFB etc. Actually, i do not give about the fact if its fake or not, it feels good. But still im puzzeled which are "the best" settings for the T500 and rF2. Probably it depends on the car being driven. I just cant find a simple explanation of the ingame FFB settings and what they do.
I'm not the best at explaining things tbh so if you don't understand my explanation, know that it is not your fault for failing to understand. The physics engine in rf2 calculates the torque at the virtual steering wheel of the car you drive. Just like in the real world, the maximum torque that can be produced at the steering wheel ranges is technically infinity (if we ignore the fact that the steering shaft material would vaporise, lol). However our ffb steering wheels have a maximum torque output (that is determined by the maximum torque output of our ffb motors). Therefore you cannot set a 1:1 relationship between the virtual steering wheel torque range to the ffb steering wheel torque range because you can't rescale a range of 0-inifity to correlate with 0-some maximum torque. The only solution is to set a maximum torque value at the virtual steering wheel that will represent the maximum torque output of your ffb steering wheel. When you do this, the max torque in the virtual steering wheel now correlates to the max torque output of your ffb steering wheel. However, any torque calculated in the physics engine that is above this maximum torque value will be "clipped" and seen as just the maximum torque value (e.g. a torque that is 140% of the max torque value will just be seen as the max torque value). Now here's the problem. If you set this maximum torque value at the virtual steering wheel too low, you will have set the maximum torque value below the range of higher torques you would experience on track. For example, if you set max torque value to equal when you've just begun turning in the car gently, you will have "clipped" all the higher torques that are about to be produced when your in the actual cornering phase of a corner. Since these forces are above the maximum torque value, they will be seen as the same as the max torque value and remember the max torque value = the max torque output of your ffb steering wheel. This is what's known as "FFB clipping". To avoid this from happening, you have to change the ingame ffb multiplier as this affects the maximum torque value. However, in order to increase the maximum torque value you have to decrease the ingame ffb multiplier (which is perhaps a little unintuitive.) Did that work or make it worse? :S
I like the torque and the feeling of weight with my current settings (100/100/100/0/0, multi 0.31-0.33 and smoothing 0). However, those curbs are killing my wheel (or at least it doesn't sound good, and it gets hotter than usual because of this). What should I do? Increase smoothing? Does it take something away from the feel? Thanks in advance.
There is something stopping me to use it. As I'm a bit of a nitpicker I don't love the fact you still have crazy oscillations when the engine goes off...
I prefer lower forces rather than to take the risk of a damage. I use 40% / 100% /100 % and the multi in the game depends on the car while I adjust according to sensation parallel to the clipping meter. I find the forces unnatural with increasing the general srength. Everything becomes raw and undamped as well as the transitions are too sharp for my feeling. Cars do not feel like that. It feels here simply that an electric motor is in use and can't replace a self-damping steering system. edit: also a rigid center is unnatural for the most cars. Mostly a softer transition exists due to the tires and geometry of the car. I find it unnatural to feel an almost rigid center when I start to turn the steering wheel. It should not affect the fine feeling adversely by to strong alignment due to strong center forces. This should be rise with increasing speed and reduce at a decreasing rate. I can feel wonderful as the center with increasing speed gets tighter and how it decreases with decreasing speed and the transition feels quite natural to me but not with higher general forces in use.
Well DrR1pper, i can assure you that first: it is my lack of comprehension to understand your explanation. Second, which is obvious: yes, you did made it worse. But...that does not matter. Let me chew on this for a while
I find it hard to balance between perfect feel in slow corners while not having too harsh forces going over curbs and off-road. If I use 60% in driver then you might have the same feel in slow corners as with 100% by increasing multi but that makes torque too strong in other situations imo (and might cause clipping). So how does smoothing value effect torque force?
If you mean the filter option than that shouldn't reduce torque but the details of the tire patch and surface what isn't bad at all because if you are going to filter them the main forces will be clearer. It's like cleaning the steering. The result is a much faster FFB which even allows to let the wheel go for self aligning but it might be possible that you will miss some patch info. I assume it eliminates some extra friction resistance due to sticking tires/rubber by filtering details but i don't know if it will be a solution for your specific issue.
Real-life curbs are also very hard and jarring on the wheel and whole car actually especially the ones with ripples/saw-teeth, also whenever you use a curb on the entry they try to suck you into them and off the track so then you really need to make a conscious effort to get ready to touch the curb. Don't worrry if the curbs feel pretty strong and forceful
Ah that's interesting, in a actual formula car you indeed feel the curbs/rumblestrips in the steering? I was a bit in doubt about rF2 FFB, because of some statements from Kunos. Which wheel do you use Spinelli?
I just want to add as well and please don't take this the wrong way but speed and tig, are you after realism or tuning the feel to what you prefer? I don't know what it's like to drive in these race cars because i've never driven one before but if your trying to get a realistic feel through the wheel, how are you sure that the default is not already accurate/correct? Are you sure he was refering to all formula cars? Because not all formula cars have power steering (such as F2, but F1 does). I do recall not long ago someone in the forums or a friend linked about kimi when he was at lotus wanting better feedback through his steering wheel because he wasn't getting the detail in the slow speed corners that he needed to drive at the cars limit and as it was improved there was a marked improvement in his driving and finishing positions.
Anything which can affect the direction of the front wheels should be felt through the steering wheel (to some extent), especially with very stiff suspension. I do think a lot of the extreme violent forces in the FFB steering wheel are trying to replicate the way you get knocked around in the cockpit though - the type of thing which might give you a bad back in real life. This would be felt through the chassis, but it seems in sims we get this shock through the wheel.
Neither i know if the standard is real or correct nor if i'm in relation to reality in connection with the specific cars because i don't know them and that is not the goal when i'm adjusting the ffb but usual and natural steering feeling as far as possible with the available conditions are, thus i feel the need to alter some settings for my perception of things. Don't forget we are using toys with electric motors which aren't able to reproduce steering feeling at all. The technical pov about bump steer in the steering wheel with every car is, that for sure isn't very realistic at all and for every car. Not every vertical shock will be transfered to the steering wheel. Overdriving a bump straight forward won't generate much effect on the steering of those absorbing cars. Overdriving a bump where the steering angle changes yes, that can pull out your arms. This has nothing to do with my personal likes.
I think Kunos applied to all cars not only formula. AFAIK formula1 is the only formula series to use power steering. @ForthRight - Question is, are the forces delivered through the wheel realistic, or are they a little bit reinforced to replicate forces which be felt through the chassis/seat.
