@Lazza i run standard 1.0 ffb from rf2 and 0.75 at thrustmaster cp
thats my standard
also i v heard that the minimum ffb multiplier from rf2 is good to be 1.0 so i dont miss any info
is that correct ?
Nothing is absolutely correct
Even 0.5 can lose some details in more extreme situations, plus it depends on how the mod has been calibrated. The level of steering column torque that equals 100% is defined by the modder (not as part of the physics; they can choose where 100% is. It could be 10Nm, or 20Nm, or 60Nm. The only way to override it is to tell the game how strong your wheel is and have your wheel stronger than the car's level). If a mod has been aimed at strong wheels it may hardly clip at 1.0 so 1.1 or higher is actually better.
I find that a lot of mods, including those that come with the game, are directed at consumer wheels. G27 level. For that sort of wheel it usually feels better to have a bit more clipping so that you can have generally stronger forces. So if you have a stronger wheel, you can usually get away with lowering the Mult a bit so you have less clipping. But it is personal preference.
What you probably don't want to do is have your CP set to 1.0 while the game is 1.0 - then (generally) you will have the wheel pushing at full force, sustained, at times while it's clipping. That runs the motor hard and can lead to heat and failures.
If you swap your 1.0 Mult and 0.75 CP, to 0.75 Mult and 1.0 CP, you'll end up with the wheel doing the same work where there's already no clipping, then there's extra room (33%, from 0.75 to 1.0) for the game to give you extra feedback with strong forces. Your wheel will work harder at that point than it does now, but it shouldn't happen enough to cause issues. You'll get hardly any sustained full forces.
I run my T500 on 1.0 and my Mult varies between around 0.60 and 0.75 depending on the vehicle. My only mod is changing the standard fan for a new Noctua one. It probably does cool better, but mainly it makes a lot less noise.