Discussion in 'Vehicles' started by zerocool, Dec 13, 2014.
Wow! For me, a dream come true
Please, still keep your work, DiggerHawk
I will see a donation income for you, hehehe
Full repairs for me, more realistic.
Outstanding work on Arnd Meier's lola. I have only messed a bit with the cars (semiauto, rad draft, LODs, Split Mirrors, onboard ARB ADJ and played with tires and such)
I am however deep into improving existing tracks and my skills are improving rapidly.
I am almost done with a longbeach 98 from the 2014. Not sure if I will ask for permission to publish yet but may look to share privately for feedback.
Removed all the purple textures and optimized verts. Re-lofted the entire surface 1m mesh and walls so no crash gaps. Added road patches some very lively bumps at all the crosswalks.
Working on spline groove and road lines next.
Probably also Toronto 98 format since I'm Canadian and have to re-mesh it anyway.
I have re meshed Milwaukee but it was my first work and I will have to back over it.
Looking forward to some improved graphics, love these cars and variety of tracks.
Would love to see wheels and suspension flying in a crash. Nothing sadder to me in sim racing than a huge crash you can just drive away from. Also adds another dimension to driving knowing you will pay a potential price for a risky move. Keep up the great work
It'd be cool if you could convert the old Houston circuit that was made for rF1. Tyrone recently released a great Toronto for AC too.
Haven't messed with conversions yet. Brazil is the other one missing from having a complete 98 schedule.
I am also looking at Fontana and Michigan resurface. Those tracks have bumps on it seemingly created for stock cars.
The cart98 Hanford package bounces all over regardless of setup.
Is there a problem in Indianapolis with this car? I can't get to turn 2 without the car turning?
Are you talking about the oval or road coarse? There seems to be some issues with the superspeedway configuration when I tried it. Its very unstable. Maybe something to look into sometime.
I know what you mean about big crashes where cars just drive away from. Maybe the threshold for the wheels staying on is too high.
Make a big change in the setup to the weight distribution and the oversteer effect will go away.
I presume the weight distribution needs to be moved forward, which is the minus button. Do you have a specific value for the Lola? I tried Indy Oval using the Superspeedway package again but I couldn't get a full throttle lap no matter what I tried in the setup. I tried the Apex 2020 Indycar's and they worked.
I would be interested to have a look at your setups to compare with the defaults.
Hi @DiggerHawk , it's quite easy, just move the weight distribution all the way forward with the minus button and the oversteer should go away. And i'm not sure if this is for RF2 or for AMS1, but also take a look at the tires, one of the 2 games has a difference between road and speedway/ovals for tires. I think it's AMS, but i would suggest to just check it to be sure that you don't run a RC tire on the oval.
That's the only changes i've made to the default setup and i can run a full tank in race trim (30+ laps) in traffic and alone without any uncontrolable oversteer effect.
The car isnt a car that you can run full throtle for the full lap in the default setup (not even close to it), while the DW 12 2014 mod or the VRC 18 car you will be much close to full throttle. i guess just different cars & era's.
If you are racing versus ai i would also suggest to do 2 things for OVAL racing in your json file:
* Change the AI Logic Override to 2, this is the superspeedway setting. I get the impression that the AI are much less inclined to drive into you with this setting.
* Change the AI Fuel Multiplier (at least for indy). With default setting and the multiplier at the base setting of 0.99 i get roughly 33 laps with a full tank and the AI does between 39 and 41 (depending on their car). You have to test for yourself but i have increased the multiplier to somewhere between 1.10 and 1.20 to have them run the same nr of laps on a full tank.
Oh in addition, i'm still learning this car, but on the RC's with no help on (TC, brake stability, etc.) i feel that the car in itself is quite driveable. You obviously have to pay attention to the throttle without TC, but that is quite doable.
However there is one issue (for me) with this car and that is the downshifting. It's impossible to downshift quickly without getting into a spin. When i put on all help there is no issue, so i think the autoblipping option cures it, but without that on i cant get a lap done.
Any suggestions in technique how to solve this? I never raced with cars where the downshift was such an issue. I can turn off all helps and have no issue to run a lap at Laguna with the DW12 or the VRC 18 indycar, but with the '98 CART car it's impossible to shift down aggressively.
Whenever I downshift I always hit the gas and get the left foot very ready to hit the clutch, this car doesn´t forgive half a mistake, and I love it.
Looking at the files the rF2 version only has road tyres (soft/wet). I wonder if the AMS1 oval tyres could be added?
Obviously in real life these cars didn't race at Indy thanks to the split so it would be hard to know for sure if they would of run flat out. As far as this mods concerned a lift and coast in to the corners is the way to go.
As I understand it, changing the AI logic to 2 disables the "flexible superspeedway driving line". So would that keep the AI on the single racing line?
The fuel usage is a tricky subject as for my mod I have reduced the AI fuel usage to better match the player on road courses. But you are suggesting that it should be the opposite for the ovals. Maybe a compromise is needed or maybe a different setting for each is possible.
In terms of the gear shifts have you seen BeGee's update on page 13 of this thread? He has amongst other things switched the gear box to a sequential with auto-blip, which is how it worked in real life at this time. This change thanks to BeGee will also be included in my future updates.
That's actually a bit funny you say that about the ai logic disabling the SS driving line.... I thought putting 2 in was a mode for ovals, but it is actually the opposite looking at the description.
Having said that i still like it at 2 for ovals.
The reason why i like the setting at 2 for ovals is that at least in my case it stops the AI from crashing into me all the time. For example when i pass an AI at the backstraight at Indy the AI will try to take back the position right away IN turn 3, which makes no sense. Result at a setting other then 2 is that i will have a lot of contact with AI cars.
With the setting at 2 they try to stay in the 'one driving line' and not try to pass me back right away regardless of what their track position is, but actually set up the pass a lap later at a less risky spot.
I then us the AI Limiter to get a setting where the AI is passing but faster drivers who should be in front (in terms of talent files) are in front.
I will dive into BeGee's update, thnx for the heads up.
are these tires the right compounds for oval?
are these tires the right compounds for oval?
I have also been looking at tires.
It appears that both the goodyears and firestones use the same TBC file data but use different TGM
The Goodyears use the ALT (SOFT) ISI TGM FILE
The Firestones use the Primary(MED) ISI TGM FILE
I setup upgrades to use the ShortOval and Speedway ISI TGMS.
I plan to do some testing and experiment with the number on both the TGM and TBC.
I am also looking for a general description for Short Oval and Speedway tires attributes?
I imagine short ovals are more durable that a road tire and the speedway are harder plus maintain their shape at speeds over 200.
Anyone else know?
I would think oval tires generate heat more from longitudinal rotation than from lateral friction. Most of the CART Short ovals were flat or nearly so, that would suggest the short oval tire should be more similar to the roadcourse tire. Short flat ovals are really just a two turn road course.
Well driving the base setup will ensure that your right front tyre will be gone within half a tank. Not sure if that is the tyre or the base setup.
Anybody got some rc, sc and oval setups to share?
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