1966 Brabham-Repco BT20 v1.6 Now Available!

This is the settings the helped me out a lot

T500rs Panel:
Overall Strength of all forces 75%
Constant 100 %
Periodic 100%
Spring 100%
Damper 20%

In Game:
FBB Multi: 1.4
caster 3

Only issue is on exit. I just cant feel the back about to slip while exiting.

 

BasicUser, please check out post #82 (3 prior to this post).

 

For anyone that's interested;

1966 F1 season
BT20 Qual times, driven by Denny Hulme
Circuit: Reims-Gueux 02:13.300
Circuit: Brands Hatch 01:34.800
Circuit: Nürburgring 08:49.300
Circuit: Zandvoort 01:28.700
Circuit: Watkins Glen 01:09.280
Circuit: Mexico City 01:54.210
Circuit: Monza 01:32.840
Circuit: Monaco 01:31.100 **BT22**

 

I may try tomorrow but I don't see running a custom ffb necessary. I know the t500rs isn't the top of the line, but the issue I am having isn't related to my hardware in particular. Its the feel of the ffb alone. I rather run more linear setup that just works. The settings I made reminds me of the old ffb + the new feel. The only thing it doesn't change is the exiting effect. The wheel just doesn't give me any insight to how the back is behaving. Maybe their custom ffb will work and I will try tomorrow, but I hate having to tweak this and that to accomplish something that seems to be rooted in the way the ffb is being generated.

 

Default is 100% for both. Maybe you meant something different than what Im thinking you meant.

 

I meant that spring and damper should almost aleays be set to 0% for almost every game as your own personal default. Disable that crap

 

Had time to lap with the BT20, the car feels more predictable, and you are more inclined to race it.
The clutch seems to cope better with the torque of the motor, and you can up shift quickly.
It is an improvement of an already very good car (the one I always choose when I want pure driving sensations).
When looking at replays they look like the real thing.
I enjoy racing it in Portugal (bumpy track), manual gears and clutch.

If you like BT20, try the Spark F1 if you haven't, the actual version is a blast to drive (drove it again after new BT20).

Thanks again ISI.

 

At Spa right now with a bunch, its a tad wet and I'm having the time of my life.

The rear is just wow. To the devs involved, this is a masterpiece. Congratulations!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

I setup my wheel on my brothers pc to make sure it wasn't maybe a bad install and it acted the same way. A wobbly light wheel. I have tried to learn the difference from the old to the new ffb and I do understand the new ffb pretty good. In fact its better for the most cases besides being way too light.

Now back to my main issue.
Going 100 around a corner perhaps gives only 1/4 on the t500rs' strength. So increasing the ffb multi helps this a lot and makes it less spring and wobbly. I can feel the weight difference and this is where I am messing up. I get so much weight from turn in, I pass the limit of grip in back without the feeling of grip loose. The old way would send a clear message while this new ffb sends just a heavier weight like a spring loaded weight( perhaps from both front and back springs ) to the wheel and not a positional effect with weight like the odd ffb. Imagine I was doing a heavy front loaded turn in and I loaded the front at its limit and the back is loaded lightly loaded, so the spring in back has a light load to it, so there little effect on the back spring. Even though the spring is not loaded much, the back is still slipping due to inertia weight and this has no effect to be felt since the ffb is only using the spring in the light state in back and using that force from the back spring to represent the weight in back. therefore there is the missing inertia weight. This could even include the front, but the back is whats getting me. This is just my interpretation and might be slightly off. Hopefully someone can understand what I am trying to say .

 

Basic, try to mark "control by wheel" instead of "by the game" in driver thrustmaster, then corner feeling is back, i use around 9% and i know it is wrong to use it, but it works a charm 4 me^^
Rest 100% and strength 60% and you are there. Be sure to use a new profile.

Greetings Mikk

 

I did try that too It does seem to help, but it is sure fake :\. One thing I want to add about the inertia not being feed in, is that the inertia should be directional id imagine.

 

Jim, I really don't see the problem in cranking up the caster.
Also I don't know which "ideology" you're referring to? Just a couple of guys handing out setup/ffb tips for another guy in need.

High caster is how I prefer to drive this car. Someone else might feel differently, and that's fine too.
I am well aware of the impact it has on tire wear, which I why I wouldn't run such an extreme setting if I was running a 2 hour race.
But for a sprint race of 20 minutes it's the best way for me to be able to push the car to the limit, every single lap, even though it comes at the price.

Last night this philosophy gave me at least a 0.8 advantage per lap on historic Spa on the ISR server.
If that race had been 1 or 2 hours, I'd have approached it very differently.

It all comes down to personal preference.
But for example saying that a guy shouldn't run this or that wing angle on a car wouldn't make a lot of sense either.
If that guy loves a lose rear end no one can say to him that he should instead set up his car to the opposite.

It comes down to driving style, personal preference regarding the feel of the car, the type/length of race etc. etc.

 

I tried this last night and I've got to say after only a few laps around Longford, it's already up there with my favourite simulated cars of all time. Fantastic work to all involved in making this!

Now all we need is the rest of the season!

With regard to the FFB, I find all simulators to be weak. This is probably to protect the motors in the FFB wheels which wouldn't be able to produce the real forces you feel in an actual car. In rF2 I now use FFB Multi 2.50, and then adjust the smoothness from anything from 0 up to 20 depending on what you like to feel. This gives me the best/most accurate feeling, and my G25 seems to cope with it well.

A few of us over at F1SR are thinking about starting a league with this mod and use custom skins, but I'd like to gauge interest to see if it would be popular enough to fill a grid. See the post here: http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.php/23930-New-Brabham-BT20-v1-6-League-Gauging-interest?highlight=

 

Basic, have you tried with control panel damper and spring both at 0 yet?

 

Spent some more time today and this is fast becoming my favorite vehicle. Base setup I landed on for now ==> Link. Watch the throttle

Oh yeah and 50-50 bias? Were people really that suicidal?

 

Just one hint: The ability to control that (or any other) car has nothing to do with force feedback!

 

You state that like it's a fact. It isn't.
Are you as fast without ffb as you are with ffb?

When I switched from a G27 to a T500 I have gained around a second per lap due to the stronger, more detailed and overall better force feedback.

I can drive the BT20 1.60 a lot faster while having even more control than the old version.
There's a lot more information going through the ffb now, so I find it "easier" to drive on the limit.

I wouldn't have a clue how to drive as fast as I do if I didn't have ffb.

 

Ah good catch. Didn't see that in the description but now I realize it's in the change log.

 

I usually run with no damping effect, but never did try with the spring at 0%. Ill report my opinion later if I can feel a difference. All this testing can be rough

 

@ Paul . are you saying that the default brake bias of 50./50. is in actual fact 57/43?(F/R)?? I was wondering why default is set like that if its the case. I guess its to reflect the actual front brake capability on the front vs. the rear?