As far as setup advice goes, understand that i am about a B to B+ driver so take it as you wish. For brake bias i go no lower the about 55 for front. One other thing i do to make the car more stable in braking is set diff to 10pwr 20coast. These are very non-aggressive settings and the 20 coast helps keep the rears from locking up
Before I went to bed last night I decided to run a few laps in the Spark F1 instead of the BT20. I still need practice, lol. I have the current setup with settings as you mentioned Rick, with the 10/20 and the brake bias at 65/35. The difficulty with this is that when I am driving down the straight, the car is all over the place. I have front toe set to -25 and rear to 10 to try and make it more stable. Could it be that my wheel settings are just too twitchy and this is why it feels this way? Currently I have the box ticked for vehicle set for rotation, and the default steering lock appears to be 27.X? Should I be changing the lock down to like 20 or something to make things smoother or is it still in the setup or car characteristics?
FWIW - My car is all over the place also which is why I love these cars as you cannot break your concentration for a second. Of course I am somewhat a glutten for punishment as I use clutch + h-shifter too so I am at a huge disadvantage. My setup is bone stock although I sometimes remember to reduce fuel and also often do one click left for closer final gear ratio which makes the car even crazier.
Well, I must be a glutton as well seeing as I am driving with the H-shifter and clutch too, At least now I understand that part of this is normal for the car and I need to learn how to somewhat control what is going on.
I've checked my settings for steering. I use the default 27deg lock. I have my wheel limit at 360deg. On the ISI tracks (especially Spa) there is twitchiness on the straights. I love it! If it is overbearing maybe turn down your FFB strength. I never mess with toe. Don't know enough about what effect it is supposed to have. As you can see I'm not a super car setter-upper. Other than the things I've talked about here I pretty much just adapt my driving. Could be that's why I'm a B driver. Or I just lack natural talent and reflexes... Hmmm, I think I'll pick the former.
Hehehe Just so you know, with the toe set to negative on the front, it helps you turn into corners and also helps keep the front end stable on straights. With toe to the positive on the rear, it helps the back end come around a little reducing understeer, again it also helps with stability on the straights. The down side to toe is that you are constantly scrubbing your tires, the more away from 0 toe is the more you will scrub and thus increase the heat and wear on the tire. If you have never heard of it, there was a tool at Race2Play that was designed to help everyone build a decent setup. Unfortunately that tool is no longer available from them, at least not on what you can see without paying for the premium package there. I personally know quite a bit about how the suspension works on cars, having worked on them for over 35 years, but knowing what it does and knowing what the car is telling you is 2 different things in my case. I can usually tell others what to adjust on a setup to improve based on what they feel, but I can't do the same for myself. I guess I lack the vocabulary or something heheh.
Back in the day they used toe in at both front and rear. Toe in at the front gives stability, especially under braking. Toe out at the rear is very unstable.
I have only been practicing at Brianza so far, so if we do the same track I can give it a go Sunday, or let me know what track and I can try and get some practice in there.
I dont get that twitchyness at all. Im running 576 and 14.5. Then adjust setup so it turns in and out abit better. I really dont know how you guys can run your games with such twitchy steering. 360 or 540 and 27 lock?!!?? Wow!! See now for me that just isnt realistic, moving the wheel very little. I hear what you guys are say about steering ratios, but it just doesnt work like that in car sims for me. GearJammer m8. I would personally try lowering the 'lock' It helps to not oversteer and burn tires out. Also helps with power on out of the corners. Caster can help with a wandering car too. Front ARB, get that stiffer. It will stop the car from rolling around and changing the geometry whilst entering a corner, worst thing that can happen with the old girls.
I understand what you are saying Pluginz, and for the most part I agree with you on the steering lock, but I had presumed that the 27.X was supposed to be accurate for how the real car is based on my choosing to let the game decide based on car. This obviously could be very wrong heheh. I think I am going to mess around a bit with stiffer suspension and such and see how well I can get the car to feel with a bit more practice. Will keep you guys posted on my progress.
Its more to do with what you feel comfortable with. Oh yes by all means keep the 'Vehicle Set', but adjust the steering lock to suit the car and track to your own style and feel. Although you might not get full lock with a lower steering lock setting, you might not need it for some tracks. Less lock gives you more precision. More work at the wheel yes, but more progression through the range, and for me, you feel more FFB with a lower lock. If you can keep the car within that knotch feeling on the FFB you keep grip, you dont oversteer, or understeer either. With a higher steering lock theres no inbetween feeling and I dont feel the grip so much. Worth a shot GearJ m8?
My first port of call for any car with vehicle set, is to adjust the steering lock, so it feels right when you turn into a bend.
I have turned the lock down to 18 for now, but the steering is still very tight, meaning that I still don't turn the wheel that much except exiting the pits where I have to do a 180 from the garage, hehe. I will keep playing with it till I get a good feeling about it. BTW, I also played around with the setup some and have gotten the car to be a lot less of a handful on the straights, though it will always be a handful in the turns I dropped the ride height to minimum, increased front springs to 20 and rear to 16. I also changed the bumps and rebounds to better transfer the weight as needed. Front toe is now -10, rear is default 40 and I have no rear ARB. I am currently running consistent low 1:29's at Brianza with the occasional 1:28 thrown in there now in the Spark F1.
Hey, dont stop, Im writing all down, (Ill even give cool suggestions at servers after this), err, what was that part about bumps and rebounds exactly?
I found this for you '60s F1 nuts. It's race reports from all the 1967 GP races. I thought it was pretty cool. http://www.intothered.dk/1967season/67season_root.html
