for me : 58% overall and 100% (constant)/100%(periodic) / 0% (spring)/0%(damper) and I adapt the FFB multi in the game according cars (generally between 0.50 and 1 )
Guys I have have the new TX1 should I use t500 profile? Does it change FFB #'s in the PLR file or just the button config? I mean the controller ini file not plr
How long have you had it? What did you use before? What are your thoughts on the FFB with rF2? Sorry for so many questions.
first wheel G27 than GT2RS V2 now TX1. So far its is better than both in FFB department, The wheel itself is rubbish, i use aftermarket momo's so I don't car about the wheel. Ive only had now for 3 days and i am very happy with it but im still tweaking things. I do wish there was on\off switch. Its smooth to a degree I can feel the belts inside (ribs) when NOT in game, in game its smooth and strong and also fast. I am a violent driver so I hope this can hang, I nearly ripped the GT2RS housing out of itself during my last race and not out of frustration, I was just catching the car. I will share more when I have about a month with it but so far so good.
From what Ive read yes, with the differences being the brushless motor in the TX and slightly less power the t500
Hmm...interesting. I wonder why they opted for brushless despite myself knowing that the non brushless motors in my csr-elite broke twice in a year. However it wouldn't be fair to automatically assume the same with the T500RS motors, classed as "industrial motors" whilst the CSR-E/CSW's are motors found in printers. Has anyone had a T500RS for longer than 2 years and had a motor fail on them? I don't know about anyone else with a CSR-E/CSW but i never saw mine able to max the ridiculously high rotational speed of the T500RS or it's maximum force output. Edit: I do recall however that my csr-elite was buttery smooth when i first received it but after the first motor failure something changed and it was never the same again. Usable but it lost that buttery smoothness in the belt system for some reason. I need the TX has a "New optimized frictionless dual-belt mechanism. Fluid and smooth steering – ultra-quiet system" which sounds like the one employed in the CSR-E/CSW's. I can't really compare the smoothness of my T500RS to how the CSR-E felt at the beginning because it was over a year ago but i do know that regardless of that the jump from csr-e to t500rs was 2-3x improvement in ffb experience. I'm really intrigued by the TX though, how it compares to the T500RS in the smoothness scale if actually any when in action. I only purchased my T500RS a little over a month ago...never knew about the TX.
My T500RS is 2 years +1 month old. No motor probs. TM has replacedthe paddles, the fan and sent me a new pot for the gas (but I haven't installed it yet- I just use a dead zone for the gas pedal, saving the pot for when the gas pedal pot finally totally gives out). But the motor has been fine even when the fan went out and the motor was running hot for a while, no issues.
Just a curiosity. How much deadzone do you have on pedals? Mine have a lot, but it's new and the deadzone is the same as the previous one I changed for a major product flaw. Odd nobody is complaining for this aspect... For me looks a bit too much.
Just to add something else to the mix regarding deadzones, i have some on my accelerator pedal on the CSR-elite pedals (i haven't touched my t500's). It's not a terrible amount imo but i do plan to remove it in the near future as it can be a pain in the ass at times. Especially on my brake pedal though, the deadzone is about 1cm of throw as measured from the top of the pedal arm. I've made a few temporary modifications to reduce it down to perhaps 0.5cm of deadzone but that's still bad when your trying to just touch the brakes through a corner and your unable to tell if your adding any at all or not...so goes for deadzone on the accelerator.
It's a very small dead zone when the pedal is almost all the way depressed. I don't even really notice it much. If it was on the brake maybe I'd replace the pot right now but on the gas it's not an issue.
Hmmm...then I guess I've a problem with mine as I've, at least, 2cm for each pedal. Odd for a brand new product and for all three pedals.
I will have to test the default overall setting of 60% in the TM control panel again but i think it's better with it set to 100% and in-game set to 60%. It feels as if there is less clipping occurring with it in this arrangement. Whilst the effective maximum ffb strength is the same in both arrangements, it feels more progressive and the forces feel more evenly spread out using 100% TM and 60% rf2. The lower end force-feedback feels lighter as a consequence but in a very natural way. I have a theory for why this may be but it's just a theory and please correct me if i'm wrong. So, ever since i've been using the pedal plugin (think that's what it's called) i was exposed to ffb clipping. Before i explain further, for those who don't know what clipping is, here's a good description: Now, i'm not certain if this is how the plugin works but suspect the plugin simply reads the ffb force output from rf2 which i presume is simply a percentage value. So regardless of the steering wheel you use, when rf2 outputs an ffb signal of 100%, your wheel will simply generate 100% of torque it is capable of producing (determined by the software and hardware of your steering wheel of choice). Now if that is true, then clipping is independent of the steering wheel you use, i then wondered why on earth would be any ffb clipping issues purposely placed into the game? I used to get around the problem on my CSR-Elite by lowering rf2 ffb strength to 80% which didn't remove all the clipping when driving around a track but was a compromise i was willing to accept or else the any lower and the ffb became far too light/loose for my taste. I mean, why did i bother upgrading from a g25 to a CSR-Elite if i was just going to turn the ffb back into a g25? Then it dawned on me why there had to be some form of clipping at all. The dynamic range of torque producible at the steering wheel of a real car is technically infinite (if you momentarily ignore that the steering shaft would instantly fail past it's material tensile point). Since our steering wheels have a finite torque, the devs must define a maximum steering wheel torque value in the games physics that will correlate with the 100% torque of your steering wheels ffb. If it's set too high, e.g. if the maximum torque was set to when the car crashes into a wall at 200+mph generating ungodly torque at the steering wheel in rf2 physics then you will only feel 100% of your wheels ffb torque in a 200+mph crash head-on crash. Driving around the fastest corners will probably generate something like 5% ffb to your wheel and around slow speed corners the ffb strength would be in the 0-1% range of your wheels ffb which you simply wouldn't feel/notice. If it's set too low, e.g. if the maximum torque is set to when the car is turning gently, then you have a massive clipping issue whereby anything past turning gently to driving around a high speed corner generating massive amounts of g-force and self-align torque at the steering wheel will simply be felt as a constant 100% torque at the wheel. The whole point of ffb is to feel the progression of forces as your drive the car because this is what your mind measures to determine how the cars balancing dynamics are changing. So they have to cap the maximum torque in rf2's physics to the lowest point that can accommodate those who use older wheels such as g25's. Whilst this is great for g25 users, allowing them to feel forces in the low end range. However they also suffer from the clipping issue whereby they feel the maximum ffb in their wheel before the areas that produce maximum torque around the track without crashing. This obviously cascades onto all other wheels too. So, if you lower the ingame ffb just enough to avoid the clipping issue for a normal race around the track then you get a more accurate ffb feel which really helps to improve the handling. Now for my T500 i use (100% in the TM overall setting and) 60% in game for two reasons. Firstly, anything higher than 60% is just not needed on the T500. This wheel produces some kick ass level of ffb strength compared to my older wheels and it doesn't suffer from any inconsistency in the ffb strength at lower ranges (e.g. strange ffb deadzones). Secondaly, i avoid ALL clipping issues at 60% in my normal drives around any track.
Just a little update with the TX, the wheel has begun to calibrate with a 2+ degree offset to the left (this happened on the second day of use btw) and it seems it is common with the wheel. I emailed support and got a stupid question and answered it , all this about 4 days ago and haven't heard since. So im returning the TX and I purchased a T500. I like the wheel but the calibration problem is UNACCEPTABLE. The T500 has proved itself and with the updated fans I hope to get many hours from the wheel. I do not need the pedals if anyone would like to buy those off of me PM me. Thanks, T500 here I come! PS: Wait for Thrustmaster to iron things out with TX (if they ever do) It is a good wheel the FFB was strong and smooth but the constant problems seem to be plaguing it right now.
My T500 came with 5-10 degree offset to the right. At first i thought "ahhh sh*t...unlucky draw of the pick" but decided to have a look if there were any possible solutions online but it wasn't easy to find. There was a solution by thrustmaster to recalibrate the centre position into the wheels internal memory. Havn't had a problem since. http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download.../T500RS_AutoCalibration_Centering_Process.pdf In case you need it for your t500 too.
thanks for that Dr, why can't thrustmaster just send that pdf. I haven't tried it yet but I will give it a go tomorrow. Im still going with the 500 though and now I can compare the 2
Don't forget to set the t500 overall ffb level (default is 60%) to be the same as the tx when u compare.
I'm saving my pennies for one of these lovelies, ..my G27 has been fantastic, but it's getting a bit worn out & noisy after 5/6yrs of hard use in 35 lap league races - dicing at the back, lol Hey Muttley (just love that avatar) - it's "pick of the draw" ..yea I know - how flippin' pedantic can I be!
