Many cars have peak normal cornering forces below 16Nm, so it can actually be fine. You really need to measure actual output you're getting and look at what different cars produce. The Indycar is certainly one of the exceptions, but whether you want to actually drive around hitting 15-20 Nm for a whole race is another matter.
I agree with you but the problem is that we have excessive self-aligning torque. If we decrease values, then we are decreasing all the forces, so that's the problem that I see.
I will try with this type of True Drive setting, but people usually recommend this setting for other sims and I really don't understand why they use it. Spongy and lazy to steer and totally unnatural feeling.
I replied to you saying it was too soft when not doing anything, now you're saying it's too strong? What do you mean by "not doing anything"?
Too strong when the car goes through bumps, kerbs, steer changes or whatever small detail of the track. Soft when I don't do nothing and I go straight in a not very bumpy track for example. So, if you put both things together, you get a "very dynamic" FFB.
I don't know your Steering Wheel, but can it be, that there is a Setting for the "Self-Aligning" of the Steering Wheel in the Driver or Software, like other Steering Wheels have it? You should deactivate all these "unnatural" Effects, that can be set in the Driver or Software, to get only the pure Effects from the rFactor 2 FFB.
I have SC2 Pro. In an older post I just commented that I don't understand why people activate driver effects as friction, damping or inertia, because those effects add unnatural effects to the FFB. But someone commented that in rF2 it is recommended so I will try. I don't have many expectations with it but well, I will try.
As said, i don't know your Steering Wheel and it's necessary Settings, but i know that some Steering Wheels have a Setting with that you can force it to center "automatically". And if there is such an Effect for your Wheel too, you should deactivate it definitly. I can not comment other Effects, if they are necessary for rFactor 2 or not. But generally i would not use any Effect, that can be set in the Wheels Driver or Software already.
And i would say it's a Problem on your Side somehow, because you seem to be the only one who is reporting it.
When the car goes straight in a smooth track you should feel the self-aligning torque. In the previous response you said the self-aligning torque was too strong, that's why I'm confused. Is it too weak or too strong?
Damping certainly has a major effect on Self-aligning torque. It can make or break the ffb experience. When set correctly, steering should feel very natural, and making corrections feels totally intuitive. Some titles may have Damping baked into the ffb already, or use a game-ffb damping slider (AMS2). In that case, little (if any) damping in True Drive is may be needed but, I find best results in almost all titles require some amount of Damping. We should not confuse wheel-driver effects with "canned ffb" effects, they are not the same thing. The Constant Force settings in True Drive are applied directly at the servo level. IF canned effects are actively being applied to the ffb, those signals use the Direct-Input channels. In True Drive, those should generally be left at the default settings (100%) but, if you want to experiment with them, it's certainly possible. In most simulations, there are few effects (if any) that are truly "canned", or add-on effects. Most surface details are transmitted through the steering-rack forces. Controlling finer details (or Grain) is done by use of filtering (Reconstruction Filter in True Drive) or a game-ffb smoothing filter. Suspension effects come through the base ffb signal. If they are too strong, Damping is a key factor in taming those. NOTE: I have experienced excessively strong "Spring Effect" forces in rF2, it felt like exaggerated SAT forces. I'm not sure what caused it but, reducing the "Spring Force" setting in Direct Input settings to about 30-50% did help. Ultimately though, I solved that by deleting the SC2 controller preset in rF2 / running Steam File Verification / Creating a new SC2 controller file from that new preset.
One (hugov2, Reddit): I like the FFB but the bumpiness, even on the straights, is just too much and too exaggerated for my taste. Is there any way to turn it off entirely? Ideally, I'd want the FFB to feel like RaceRoom.
To judge that, more Information would be needed and it is something different than what you describe as your Problem. And one is not "plenty". But we can stop that Discussion, because it leads to nothing.
I posted this a few min ago at the Granite Devices Forum. Here is the difference between a unprepared signal and a prepared signal. On top the signal out of the game in Newton/Meters, from peak to peak this curb hits with 16.618N/m(SC2 Torque Curve). Below that grapf, you can find a grapf with the FFB with adjusted Slew Rate(SC2+Slew Rate) and with the adjusted Slew Rate and adjusted Torque Bandwidht Limiter(SC2 +T.B.L. + S.R.). Just with the Slew Rate you can drop the torque by over 50% to 7.671N/m, by adding the T.B.L. it is even more and it drops down to 7.05N/m.
These are my "Base" setups. keep in mind you have to adjust the Slew Rate down, because you got the SC2 Pro. Base 100Hz EQ for Base 100Hz ------------------------------------------------------ Base 150Hz EQ for Base 150Hz ---------------------------------------------------------- Base 220Hz EQ for Base 220Hz
