Guide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" :D

Right, gotcha. Yeah i don't drive those oftern at all but can imagine the dynamic ffb output has a very large range meaning to the optimal is like you say it is for such high g-force cars. In such examples, i would use the same STM that works well for you in all the other slower cars (which should be around 10-15% for a g25/27 if i recall other user reports correctly) and adapt the ffb multi to that, finding a compromise value that has the least amount of barable ffb clipping and strong enough low end forces. There is no practical solution except a better ffb wheel other than that (i can think of) i'm afraid. :(

edit: Scratch that, thought of one 2 seconds after hitting "post".

Do what i said still (use the stm you find works well for the other cars) and try an ffb multi higher that "0.35" that strikes an acceptable compromise of performance handling vs some ffb clipping in the high speed corners and then add some "steering torque sensitivity" above "1.0" (up to 2.0) to bring up the low end forces some more. This will make your ffb stronger in the low end forces. If you find a high value is good you may find you don't need so much stm (if any at all) with the F1.

Excellent. I will try balance it up. Thanks very much!
 
Hi !!! I also have a Logitech G27 !!!
My (STM) 0.030 and not 0.35 is too much for me! With the Logitech G27 on the Nordschleife (STM) to a value greater than 0,030, with (vehicle ffb people) all general cars to between 0.65 and 0.75, because if I exceed this value by car there differente there will be abnormal oscilliations my logitech g27 will tense !!!
For me, it is very difficult to remove the dead zone in rfactor 2 with logitech g27. It is a shame because, at this moment I like to ride with the honda nsx who feels weak at the center of logitech g27 and increase (STM) I do not feel the front wheels lose traction.
For me setting the logitech G27 seems right to me. I believe that for the moment there is no better !!

The G25/27 has a 'built in' center deadzone,it is so the motors do not fight each other.
Logitech made it this way.
They could if they wanted release a new firmware that removes it but they said they won't.
 
The G25/27 has a 'built in' center deadzone,it is so the motors do not fight each other.
Logitech made it this way.
They could if they wanted release a new firmware that removes it but they said they won't.
+1

Yup, I even emailed logitech support twice about this, and I even phoned them. I got the same answer everytime. Unfortunately,I went through the process of wasting my time trying 3 different G25s because I literally thought they were broken - having the FFB essentially disabled until you turn the wheel a few degrees to the left or right just seemed like the product was broken, to me.

The "FFB is essentially off until you move the wheel a couple degrees to the left or right" completely killed my straightline-grip feeling especially feeling threshold brake lockup (front or rear), chassis jolts (too small or big of a downshift blip), the rear getting light under straight line, or pretty much anything else while keeping the wheel straight like for example feeling bumps, road texture/"noise", vibrations (eg. engine), uneven road surfaces like the cobblestone road at Lienz, etc.

It's the reason why I was, and still am, faster with the Logitech Momo wheels (Logitech Momo Racing [black], and Logitech Momo Force [red]) and any wheel where the FFB does not disable while in a straight line (Eg. Thrustmaster T500RS, Fanatec CSR, etc.) than with the G25/G27. If I remember correctly though, the G27's centre area of no-FFB is smaller than the G25 (you have to turn it left/right a smaller amount before the FFB activates), however it still exists.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
@DrR1pper

I now have 0.35 Multi, 0.100 Steering Torque Minimum and 5 Smoothing and this seems to be a really nice blend.

A little oscillation in pit lane but really not much. I feel the vibration on the straight if bottoming but again feels acceptable.

Thanks man!
 
Your welcome Nick. :)

Did you use some "steering torque sensitivity" as well or not?

Currently:
"Steering torque sensitivity":1,
"Steering torque sensitivity#":"Sensitivity curve applied to representable torques: 0.0=low 1.0=linear 2.0=high",
 
ok, so no then. Default = 1 (linear).

Point being that if you'd still like some more strength in the low end forces, you can try increasing the "steering torque sensitivity" (STS) a little (which you'll need to lower the STM value for too if you do so).

Here is how STS effects the ffb response curve (though not accurately portraying how the values affect the linearity of the ffb response curve in rf2 however, just an example picture):



You could get a really nice compromise with this or maybe not, I've never tried. In theory it looks like it could work really well provided you don't use too much which could induce an ffb clipping like effect in the high force range (as shown in the red curve). I don't know how much and STS of 2.0 (max value) makes the curve non-linear so it's impossbile to guess what would be a good compromise value. You would need to do some tests, set an STS value and check if low end forces feel better and then check ffb fidelity in the high end forces whilst driving at the limit around fast speed corners. If all is ok, increase the STS again in small intervals, test, rinse and repeat. You may want to take of STM completely whilst doing this because the limiting factor will be when the high end forces feel compromised to you at some STS value. And once you've found that sweet spot STS value, you can then repeate the STM test to find the right value for your wheel and choice of profiler and rf2 ffb settings. Heck, if the STS value increases the low end dramatically enough without compromising the high end, you may not even need any STM (but my guess is you still will but could be reduced a lot).

Sorry can't be more definitive help than that. Finding the truly most optimal settings possible for anyone's specific hardware is both an art and a science.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
1. DrR1, is there anything you have discovered, FFB wise, to help with the feel of car under braking? I have tried all sorts of FFB settings (including Paul's, which are generally very nice in terms of steering and rear-end rotation, but that's never been a problem for me even with junk wheels and junk FFB) and yesterday, while ending a run (classic F3), I was braking to a stop and I literally had no idea my tyre was locked and scrubbing besides me having to visually look at the tyre on my monitor, or sometimes I will get a locking feeling but it's only while the wheel is turned and the feeling happens suddenly by the time it's too late without any threshold-on-the-limit, or approaching-the-limit, feel/warning.

I can't get constant FFB information telling me all sorts of slip angles, especially during the vital straight-line braking phase and how you transition that over to the very initial turn-in. Having no sense of leaning on the front tyres during braking, and approaching that locking limit, hitting that limit, going over that limit, and then backing off just the right amount to be unlocked but without over-backing-off (which would cause you to under-brake for a half-second or so and run-wide) is really killing me relative to how I can feel this in rFactor 1, Game Stock Car, etc. It also makes the sim much less enjoyable when braking is a guessing game and a different wild experience every lap (if pushing hard, of course you can lap slightly slower and not suffer issues, but then you're under driving your limit and that makes racing pointless).

2. Also, I don't have a "gritty", rough, road feel in the wheel (sort of what you experience all around you when in a race car). It may not be technically felt from the steering wheel in real-life, but it is sort of felt all around you through the seat, the chassis, through your whole body. My brain feels this is missing in rF2 (fine in rF1, GSC, etc.) and that road-texture grittiness makes a difference in feeling the friction as you turn into the corner. Do you know of any way to improve upon this? My brain can sense this is missing from the overall experience of racing a car. It may make the steering action less glossy and smooth, but my brain needs this and without a motion sim the FFB is the only way to send these physically to my brain (not a problem with rF1, GSC, etc.).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I honestly don't know for sure. That would make sense, but there may be other things involved that complicate it. For instance, the difference between a direct drive wheel and one of the more common belt or gear driven types is pretty substantial when talking about the mechanics involved. A wheel with some belting, pulleys, or gearing would have much more friction than a direct drive wheel, so for that reason alone they may require a higher STS, but again, that's really a guess. For some wheels that are very low powered it may simply be impossible to get a realistic feel because the steering needs to be able to rotate very quickly at times in order to be able to respond to the physics properly in a realistic way.

You can easily see that there would be a problem in this way with low powered wheels when you see a car being put into really big drifts, like this:



Notice how quickly the wheel rotates as the car is rotating, if the steering doesn't do this in rF2, then it simply wouldn't be reacting properly to the physics.

For this reason I should be using the 'drift' setting on my CSR Elite?

DRI (default = OFF)
The "Drift Mode" reduces the overal resistance of the wheel and let you turn the wheel more easy. It almost works like a power steering. It reduces the basic dampening of the wheel and makes the wheel turn faster. If the values is set too high (or if the games FFB interferes with this feature) you might experience some oscillation. If that happens - reduce the value or turn DRI "OFF" again.
 
It actually makes more sense to lower the steering torque sensitivity instead of increasing it based on your representation of what the steering torque sensitivity does in that graph. If you increase it, then you simply oversaturate everything except the low end, and then the natural thing for someone to do is to lower the FFB multi, which just makes the low end forces even weaker since you have everything else after the low end using up nearly the full strength of the motor. If you lower it, then the peak torque comes much later, meaning you can increase the FFB multi which will allow you to feel the low end forces.

Before i go further, if reading just this then I don't agree and here's why. I'm not saying one should raise the STS value so high that it over oversaturates the high end forces like shown in my mock up representation of the extreme ends of STS values could do. But let's say someone did use a high enough STS that produce a way over saturated ffb response curve with a severely plateauing high end (which is effectively the same as inducing high end ffb clipping) but they also found the strength of the low end forces was an improvement to them (where they could not feel anything before, then also lowering the ingame ffb multi to avoid the clipped high end forces caused by the high STS value, in my mind this can be a solution to weak/non-existent low end forces.

The problem with doing the reverse and using a low STS value is that it reduces the strength of the low end forces sent to the ffb wheel and this will also increases the intial ffb deadzone of you wheel (and dramatically so if we took an example of a 10% initial ffb deadzone for some arbitrary ffb wheel with a linear ffb response curve, STS = 1 used, vs a lower STS value that hypothetical produced the green response curve in my graph the initial ffb deadzone would become 53%...ofc you could remove this with STM as so it won't be an issue). And you are right in saying that you would then need to increase the ingame ffb multi to increase the strength of the low end forces (as well if you didn't use the STM option to remove the much enlarged initial ffb zone by using a lower STS value) but doing so then induces early onset ffb clipping which is a big problem in of itself ofc. Even if this did cure a problem for you in the low end forces (as you describe later on in great detail), raising the ffb multi above the optimal value seems to produce another problem in it's place.


That said, the graph you show, and what i explained above, isn't a very good representation of what the steering torque sensitivity actually does in a practical way, since this isn't just about torque, it's also position and speed that needs to be accounted for, torque doesn't really represent anything in the real world unless it somehow relates to physical action and your graph doesn't represent any sort of physical action, it just shows torque vs torque. It doesn't make sense to represent the torque as a curve regardless of what value you use either, since it doesn't behave like the pedals where the position of your pedals can be different from the actual throttle position. The steering wheel always matches the steering position in the game, so the linearity of the torque doesn't help represent what actually is happening in a practical sense, which is why i have always said that the concept of linearity doesn't apply to this, there are too many variables controlled by the STS to use the concept of linearity. When you lower the steering torque, there is no delay of the torque in a non-linear way across the entire range of torque as is represented by your graph.

Ok, the bit in bold is not what the graph represents. The graph is simply a pictorial representation of how the percentage of max ffb torque calculated at the virtual steering wheel by rf2's physics engine is correlated with the percentage of max ffb torque output by your wheel. That is all. So for the same percentage of max ffb torque calculated at the virtual steering wheel, lowering the STS will reduce it's corresponding percentage torque output at your ffb wheel.



What actually happens is that when you lower it you would essentially extend the range, let's say for example you have the STS at 0.5; in order for the steering wheel to turn 100° in 1 second, 200° in 2 seconds, and 400° in 4 seconds, etc., you would require 20nm of torque from the physics to turn the steering wheel 100° in 1 second, 200° in 2 seconds, and 400° in 4 seconds, double the torque and you effectively double the speed with it; if you increase the STS value back to 1, what actually changes is how much time is required for a particular amount of torque to turn the steering wheel to a particular rotational position, what doesn't change is the correlation between the physics' torque and the steering wheels' rotational position, so it never behaves in a non-linear fashion in a practical sense.

Ok i think we're actually in agreement here but i think you may have mistaken my graph to be a representation of the physics torque vs virtual steering wheel torque. I understand and agree that the physics torque and virtual steering torque and one and also linear (because they are in fact the exact same thing ofc), my graph is a representation of physics/virtual-steering wheel torque to ffb steering wheel torque.

For example, with a higher STS value of 1, it would take 40nm of torque (more torque than before) from the front wheels from the physics in order to turn the steering wheel 100° in 1 second, 200° in 2 seconds, 400° in 4 seconds, but again if you double the torque you still double the speed with it, this correlation is always linear regardless of the STS value.

I agree.

This is why, in a practical sense, an STS value of 1 with the T500 makes the steering feel very springy, with an unnatural amount of self centering behavior, because an unrealistic amount of torque from the front wheels is required for the steering to start turning into a slide, almost like the car has an enormous amount of caster, the only difference being that the behavior of the car doesn't match that of a car with that much caster, even when the wheel will feel like it. The balance between the steering turning into a slide and returning back to center is completely out of balance, which is why a STS value of 1 is simply inaccurate with the T500.

And this is where i'm a little stumped on because i feel like i understand what you saying and describing (though i've not had any real-life experience to use a reference to know if the feeling is supposed to be correct or not) but i don't understand how it can be the ffb wheels fault. This issue of equilibrium between the moment force from car rotation and the opposing self-centring moment force from the front wheel caster is purely confined within the rf2 physics engine and is therefore a closed/isolated system. And if you are finding that the self-centring moment is greater than the car rotation moment should be based on your real-life experience, i can't see it being the ffb wheels fault. In fact it sounds like what you've done to try to alleviate this problem you see with the car behaviour in these types of cornering situations (presumable only happens in the low end force regions of cornering?) is by numbing them out completely (hence lowering the STS). I can see how numbing them out would then produce the illusion of the equilibrium between these two forces in those situations but if i've understood everything correctly it doesn't change the fact your problem is actually with rf2's physics behaviour in those situations.


Think of this as almost a direct mechanical connection, like a normal gear pair, or a ratio, or anything like that. If you have a gear ratio of 60:1, then one of those gears will turn once for every 60 turns that the other gear makes, and so, if the larger gear turns half way, then the smaller gear will turn 30 times, regardless of how much power you use to turn them. You could use a million nm of torque to turn these two gears, or 1nm, and you will always turn the larger gear 1 time for every 60 times that the smaller gear turns, what would change is how long it takes for the gears to turn. With a million nm, they would probably turn very quickly, and with 1nm they would turn much more slowly, the exact time depends on how much friction and mass must be overcome in the gear train (FFB wheel). With the FFB, you have two "gear trains", one for when the wheel is turning into a slide, and another for when the wheel is returning to center, these two gear trains need to match each other in order to have the front wheels follow the path of least resistance and therefore get a realistic feeling from the steering wheel.

I understand what you're saying but doesn't seem right that the ffb wheel should be in the loop of what your describing which should be isolated to the physics engine.


In order to get a realistic feedback from the wheel, you have to make the STS value match the path of least resistance based on the behaviour of the cars, so that as the car rotates around it's center of gravity, the front wheels will always try to follow the path of least resistance, which generally turns out to be the direction of travel, and this is even independent of the caster setting, since the tires will naturally want to roll in whatever direction that the car is traveling at. In every real car i've driven at high speeds, when you get into a slide, you don't fight the wheel in either direction to control the car, you let the wheel turn into the slide until the car is balanced in the slide while at the same time using the throttle to try and coax the front tires back into the forwards facing direction of travel, and once enough momentum is gained by the drive wheels you will feel the steering start to return to the center position to turn the sideways motion of travel into the forward facing direction of travel. This is why it's often described as the wheel "going light", it's not actually going light, it's just that the torque from the direction of travel is overcoming the self centering effect of the caster on the steering arms, it's really just a transitional phase, where if you hold the wheel perfectly still at this point while still allowing the car to continue to rotate in a slide, the wheel will not remain light, it'll pull in the direction of the slide. This should be a smooth transition, and not abrupt like the default FFB settings in rF2 often creates, where the steering wheel will somehow return to center on it's own even when you haven't achieved any more momentum from the acceleration of the drive wheels. This is why in a real car, the steering torque helps the driver control slides, and why a driver who is considered to "turn with the rear" is a driver who slides the car around, you need that acceleration from the drive wheels to make the steering want to return to the center position, it shouldn't do it on it's own like the default FFB settings, there is always a direct connection between what you're doing with the throttle and what the steering wheel does. In rF2 with the STS, it probably all depends on how much friction must be overcome in the FFB wheel combined with whatever the physics is trying to do. What i've found for the T500 to be close to the path of least resistance is a STS value of 0.276. With a higher value, it takes far too much torque from the physics in order to turn the steering wheel a certain amount, and a lower value takes far too little torque from the physics to turn the steering wheel a certain amount, or vice versa depending on what part of the slide you're in. I don't know of an exact way to determine an accurate STS value, i just know where it roughly should be based on my understanding of driving, since there's a point where both actions of the wheel turning into the slide and returning to center balances out based on how the car is behaving and neither overpowers the other, this is what i consider to be an accurate point, or the direction of travel, or path of least resistance, and is what helps me know what direction the car is traveling at all times through the steering.

Those are some very interesting observations and fantastic food for thought. Again i think i've experienced what you describe based on memory but i also think i've remembered plenty of times where the wheel does go completely light when i've attacked the corner well and the forces are in equilibrium but i can't be 100% certain. Which makes me wonder if there is possible another variable that is causing your observed problems, possibly other ffb variables/settings that you've changed and used differently to me?


All that said, the STS isn't the only important part of the FFB settings, but is probably the most complicated. My full FFB settings are in my signature if you'd like to try it. I know you mentioned you were going to try the settings i posted quite some time ago, i'm not sure if you had a chance, but either way, the settings i have now are much better than before, so it's worth giving them a try again.

I'll try to test your settings but may likely not be able to since i've moved homes temporarily and don't have the space to setup properly. Then i'm moving to Hong Kong in Jan/Feb for 6-12 months. But i'll try to just no promises.
Also, i hope you don't take everything i'm saying as some sort of attack to you personally, i just want to share what i've discovered about the FFB and how i've made it feel very realistic for myself.

Not at all, didn't remotely sound like an attack at all. And i welcome hearing any view opposite to my own...freedom to inquire, question and be questioned are required to get to the truth of things, doesn't mean i always agree with an opposing view but every now and again after hearing them i realise that i was wrong in my thinking. But you can't be afraid to make mistakes and it's only really a mistake if you don't correct it.

Your post definitely took me time to digest and provided me with many instances of cognitive dissonance. :p

I'm not 100% sure i'm right and i could be completely wrong and the ffb wheel is the cause of the problem and if so it could be linked with the very thing Leo Bodhnar is describing in https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17548791/FFBdontwork.pdf.

Or perhaps our mainstream ffb wheels are just too slow in transient response times (which is certainly the case due to the use of small weak ffb motors that need very large gear/transmission ratios to increase torque output at the severe cost of transcient response time which induces lag). And if it is a lack of a PID controller problem as descirbed by Leo causing/contributing said problem, then only a better more powerful ffb wheel will help but only up to a point.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
1. DrR1, is there anything you have discovered, FFB wise, to help with the feel of car under braking? I have tried all sorts of FFB settings (including Paul's, which are generally very nice in terms of steering and rear-end rotation, but that's never been a problem for me even with junk wheels and junk FFB) and yesterday, while ending a run (classic F3), I was braking to a stop and I literally had no idea my tyre was locked and scrubbing besides me having to visually look at the tyre on my monitor, or sometimes I will get a locking feeling but it's only while the wheel is turned and the feeling happens suddenly by the time it's too late without any threshold-on-the-limit, or approaching-the-limit, feel/warning.

I can't get constant FFB information telling me all sorts of slip angles, especially during the vital straight-line braking phase and how you transition that over to the very initial turn-in. Having no sense of leaning on the front tyres during braking, and approaching that locking limit, hitting that limit, going over that limit, and then backing off just the right amount to be unlocked but without over-backing-off (which would cause you to under-brake for a half-second or so and run-wide) is really killing me relative to how I can feel this in rFactor 1, Game Stock Car, etc. It also makes the sim much less enjoyable when braking is a guessing game and a different wild experience every lap (if pushing hard, of course you can lap slightly slower and not suffer issues, but then you're under driving your limit and that makes racing pointless).

2. Also, I don't have a "gritty", rough, road feel in the wheel (sort of what you experience all around you when in a race car). It may not be technically felt from the steering wheel in real-life, but it is sort of felt all around you through the seat, the chassis, through your whole body. My brain feels this is missing in rF2 (fine in rF1, GSC, etc.) and that road-texture grittiness makes a difference in feeling the friction as you turn into the corner. Do you know of any way to improve upon this? My brain can sense this is missing from the overall experience of racing a car. It may make the steering action less glossy and smooth, but my brain needs this and without a motion sim the FFB is the only way to send these physically to my brain (not a problem with rF1, GSC, etc.).

Sorry Spinelli, i don't know of anyway to improve this (if even possible). I don't play rf2, GSC or others but from the few times i've karted, i understand what your saying and in keeping with realism of how and what forces should felt through the ffb, it would seem rf2 is keeping it 100% realistic, so no artificial sensations through them to convey to you the longitudinal traction of the front tyres. Something that as you rightly say is felt predominately through your body but perhaps there are some ffb details to tell the driving about the front tyre but perhaps they are too low for our weak mainstream wheels to successfully convey to us. Perhaps wheels such as the bodhnar do not have this issue.
 
2 Main Kinds of Clipping, FFB Signal Clipping & FFB Power Clipping

I have no idea how valid the following is, but I'm posting this because I thought of this thread when I read it:
It's great that you addressed clipping, but I want to make a slightly more in-depth note about it:
You can get two main kinds of clipping, FFB signal clipping and FFB power clipping.

Basically FFB signal clipping is what happens when the FFB "gain" (not necessarily FFB level) is turned too high in-game. In perhaps more relatable terms this would be like the "Max Force at Steering Rack" in RealFeel, or the Gain setting in AC, or the Tyre Force in pCARS. This controls how "big" of an FFB signal (on a range of 0-100%) a certain force in the steering rack simulation causes. So for example lets say our FFB system is set so that a force of 100 results in a 100% FFB signal, and turning a car at max cornering power results in a force of 200 in the rack simulation. You set the gain to 0.5/50%, you get a force of 100 as a result and that results in a 100% FFB signal when cornering at max power. Gain to 0.25/25% and you get a force of 50 resulting in 50% FFB signal when cornering at max power. Now if you set gain to higher than 0.5/50%, you get a larger force than 100 at max cornering power. With 1.0/100% gain you get a force of 200, but you can only send out a 100% FFB signal. So you end up with a 100% FFB signal when only cornering at half power, and anything above that doesn't change anything in the feel of the wheel. This is clipping, the wheel will get to max power very quickly, but you lose half of the possible information you could get out of the tyres while cornering.

Additionally some games have an overall FFB level adjustment in addition to this gain. For example in pCARS you have such a system. This allows you to limit and scale the FFB output of the game, for example if you have a wheel that's so strong you're afraid of hurting yourself. This allows for weird setups like a high FFB gain that clips hard, basically turning into an on/off style FFB (which some people like) but limiting the maximum power with the FFB level setting so that the wheel isn't thrashing about wildly.

So that's FFB signal clipping, the FFB signal itself hitting and staying at 100% even when there should be variation in the forces based on in-game events. That sort of clipping can be detected by the game and it's easy to account for, just look at the FFB meter and lower your FFB gain until it stops clipping.

The other, slightly more difficult issue is FFB power clipping in the wheel itself, outside of the game. This is when the FFB settings on the wheel itself are adjusted so that you're asking more from the wheel than it can deliver, and it responds with the same power output you can feel in your hands when being fed with a varying signal. This is the reason T500 and T300 models are usually run with 60-75% overall FFB setting, because anything higher won't increase the maximum power of the wheel, it'll just make it reach the same level of max power with a lower FFB signal level. A T500 set to 100% will start hitting its maximum power output at roughly 70% FFB signal strength, so even if you have perfectly set up non-clipping FFB settings in the game, the wheel itself is causing a third of the FFB range to result in the same power output. Similarly on the CSW V2 you can increase the FFB to over 100, but this doesn't make the maximum power of the wheel stronger, it just makes it get there earlier and clips the wheel's FFB. This is problematic because a game can't see it happen, you need to be able to somehow measure the force produced by the wheel, either by actually measuring it (a force gauge, some benchmarking tools like the WheelCheck program available on iRacing forums) or trying to feel when adding power stops making a difference.

Ideally the wheel would produce 100% of its strength when the game is sending it a 100% FFB signal, 90% of its strength when sent 90% FFB signal, and so on. With that and a well setup in-game FFB that doesn't clip too much you can get both maximum power out of the wheel together with maximum information, making the FFB useful at telling you subtle things. And getting a more powerful wheel (like a direct drive servo wheel) will enable you to do that while bumping up the overall level of forces, making that "subtle" information less subtle and more obvious. =)

Source --> comment by user "jubuttib" from about 2 weeks ago @ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQPWsvO1EPA
 
I honestly don't know for sure. That would make sense, but there may be other things involved that complicate it. For instance, the difference between a direct drive wheel and one of the more common belt or gear driven types is pretty substantial when talking about the mechanics involved. A wheel with some belting, pulleys, or gearing would have much more friction than a direct drive wheel, so for that reason alone they may require a higher STS, but again, that's really a guess. For some wheels that are very low powered it may simply be impossible to get a realistic feel because the steering needs to be able to rotate very quickly at times in order to be able to respond to the physics properly in a realistic way.

You can easily see that there would be a problem in this way with low powered wheels when you see a car being put into really big drifts, like this:



Notice how quickly the wheel rotates as the car is rotating, if the steering doesn't do this in rF2, then it simply wouldn't be reacting properly to the physics.

I think this is a good theory. The more i think about it, you may be right it's down to the wheel but still not 100% sure and if true whether that stops with more powerful wheels.
 
I have no idea how valid the following is, but I'm posting this because I thought of this thread when I read it:


Source --> comment by user "jubuttib" from about 2 weeks ago @ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQPWsvO1EPA

That's all 100% correct and i think a better explanation than my own in the OP.

And Paul, I'm started to really think strongly that it's the weakness of our ffb wheels that maybe the cause of the issue you've described. But you i need to ask, is the problem you describe happening in all ranges of forces or predominantly in the low end forces (without STS applied)?
 
(firstly, you attachment picture doesn't show and i would love to see it :))

All very interesting Paul and i think i can see what your saying but i'm still not 100% sure i've understood you correctly.

Can we start from the beginning and clarifying a few things to make sure there is no misunderstanding?

You're saying that STS is not an ffb response curve linearity function but in fact a transient response time (rate of change) function? So lower STS increases time it takes for the motor to build up to the required torque output at the wheel? Which is essentially just reducing the acceleration rate of the motor to reaching the same torque output?

And if i've understood this correctly, have you by any chance been able to confirm this is 100% true perhaps with one of the devs? And if not, it's perhaps worth checking with a dev to be sure despite how convincing it has been from your experience. It's just that i've had an instance when talking to a dev in the past that gave me a very strong impression that it was a linearity function but i could have totally misunderstood. < One of the examples of cognitive dissonance i was having with your post, lol, because you made a lot of sense and even the name is "steering torque sensitivity" seems it agree more with your description but i have that one instance of remembering being told differently.


edit: But the more i think about what you've said and your description of how STS really works and your experience and the name of the function is starting to make more logical sense to me. And lower the transcient response time (i.e. lower "rate of change" by lowering the STS) can help to reduce overshoot problems which can cause oscillation (equivalent to an under damped suspension) instead of a critically damped system which is what we ideally want.

damped_oscillations.gif


Btw, i spoke to Leo about 6 months ago over the phone to talk about his article and like what you've written here it provided me plenty of cognitive dissonance. After two calls i sort of half understood and half forgot what we was trying to convey but after looking and considering transient response of our motors as a factor to explaining what you seem to be describing, this may very well be what he was talking about. Because a sim with ffb setup to work with a PID controlled servo motor ffb wheel could give us the perfectly critically damped responses of the ffb motor for every torque target desired without overshoot (or undershoot by being underdamped). But this is not achievable with current ffb wheels and any sim because A) most wheels do not have a true servo motor (with PID controller) & B) no racing sim has ffb working like this and so even if you wheel has a true servo motor it cannot and does not take advantage of it. The way the feedback loop between ffb wheel and sim has always worked is the game sends the wheel a force signal and wheel sends back a position signal and this is not actually correct with how it works in real life. The sim should be sending the wheel a position target and the wheel sends back a force signal (that the driver is exerting onto the wheel. Because the driver does not actually input a new steering position to turn the car but actually applies a force/torque to the steering wheel to upset the equilibrium of forces on the front wheels in an attempt to change the direction of the front wheels to his/her desire. This is essentially the distinction he was trying to get across between how all ffb wheels and sims work vs how the feedback loop works in the real life and the associated problems with the current method. And i think one of the problems this causes is that torque response of ffb wheel are most of the time under-damped when what we want and need for a realistically responding ffb wheel is a critically damped response each and every time. Assuming all the above is true, lowering STS could certainly reduce the occurrence of under-damping and provide critical damping. The only pitfall being however that a slower transient response induces lag in the ffb output response (as can be seem between the green and blue curves).

I think you've just helped me understand what Leo was saying completely now. Thanks! :D

Please feel free to tell me if you think i'm wrong though, lol.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I haven't talked to anybody at ISI about this, they can feel free to give their input if they have the time here on the forums, it would make much more sense to share this sort of thing where everyone can read it anyways. It's not something i can 100% clarify on my own, since i'm just going by the feeling, but it's very obvious if you just go between a high and a low setting. The thing about time being a factor was just something i was using to describe it in a easy to understand way, the time is all relative since the wheel will still rotate as quickly as needed. What really changes is the range of the torque, with a lower value, you end up with a larger range of torque, where the highs and lows are spread further apart, and a higher value gives a shorter range of torque, but the peak, middle, and minimum torque are still exactly the same regardless of the STS value you use.

The graph picture should explain what i mean by this, i'm not sure why, but it ended up getting deleted, maybe because i was automatically logged out while i was typing up the post. Either way here it is:

View attachment 15061

As you can see, in a mathematical sense, an STS value of 1, could theoretically be linear in some fashion, but it's not in any practical way. Since in another way, it'll always be linear, where 100% torque signal from the sim will always equal 100% torque sent to the FFB wheel, 50% would be 50%, etc. However, the range is completely different.

Sorry paul, I really don't understand this and the graphs are identical. Are you saying that regardless of the difference in STS value, an ffb signal of 50% sent from the sim to the wheel equals the same 50% ffb torque output at the ffb wheel (and the same goes for another other arbitrary ffb signal value sent to the ffb wheel)? So in real world number say that 50% equates to a measured constant torque of 10nm at the ffb steering wheel with an STS of 1, lowering (or raising) the STS value to any number will still produce the same 10nm or the same 50% ffb signal sent from the sim to the ffb wheel?

The issue of underdamped torque does make sense, however again that's really just a hardware issue and i don't think it will make such a dramatic difference even compared to something like a T500, let alone a direct drive wheel. That said, because rF2's FFB works entirely from the physics, in that whatever the front wheels are doing is what determines the FFB signal. In that sense, it doesn't have a disconnect between the two. The sim would always have to send a force signal, it can't simply send a positional signal and expect the hardware to figure out how fast to get there and with how much torque, since then it would no longer be reacting properly to what the front wheels are doing, and the rate of torque is very important here, it's not just about position, since the rate of torque is constantly changing and that's what a driver feels for in order to know what the car is doing.

Ok, i was going to write a better explanation with step-by-step description of the difference between the two feedback loop models and explain why the PID controller with positional target in and measured net torque at the ffb wheel would be much better but it would be very length and time consuming but i'd be happy to give it a try if you'd like me to give it another crack. It will also most likely never happen because a new type of ffb wheel that is both more complex (which means costly) and more be powerful (at least leo bodhnar level of powerful at minimum) and sims must rethink their ffb method to account for such a system as it's completely incompatible with the current method. In summary though, what you would get from such an ffb system is more accurate torque reproduction that can account for the added inertia that someone places on the ffb steering wheel just by holding it and more so the tighter they grip it. The ffb wheel position would track as close to perfect as possible with the rotational response not acting like it's under-damped or over-damped but instead always critically damped possible by the ffb motor. And lastly, the ffb response of the motor would always be in sync with the ffb/physics engine rather than lag behind by at least 1 refresh interval of the ffb/physics engine (which can be quite a lot when you consider it's only 60hz for rf2 which is 16ms lag and that lag is also fed back into the loop as feedback which only compounds the issue further).

I want to try to explain it but it's too late atm so i'll try again tomorrow.


I would have assumed that rF2 would send a force signal as well as a positional signal in order for it to match exactly to what the real life wheel is doing, however the positional signal from the sim i guess wouldn't be needed, it just needs some way to match the real-life wheel.

It's not a question of the position signal not being needed but rather that no ffb wheel on the market and sim has been designed to use it in the ffb feedback loop. You would need to use a servo motor ffb wheel to make use of it and you would need a new ffb method to take advantage of it (which i believe there is a massive one to be had based on leo's article which i now believe to be correct.) And yes, with a servo motor and using it's PID controller you can get a perfectly matching steering wheel position to what it should be in the virtual world and also without the inherent lags caused by using the conventional ffb loop method and the associated lag(s) that can build up quite a nasty amount of error (especially in mainstream ffb wheels) which also contributes to under/overshooting of the correct rotational position the steering wheel should have moved to after 1 refresh of the ffb/physics cycle (a problem that the existence of servo motors were designed to solve). Unfortunately, even though the leo bodhnar wheel is a complete servo wheel with a PID controller onboard, it goes completely unused because a) no racing sim's ffb loop works this way of sending the wheel a position target and receiving back a net torque at the ffb wheel shaft and b) even though the leo bodhnar is a servo motor wheel, it does not have the technology to measure the applied torque at the ffb wheel shaft by the sim-driver (however i could be wrong and this could be completely unrequired as thinking about it you should be able to calculate through the PID controller by simply working out the net torque on the ffb wheel by double integrating the rotational position change to get the rotational acceleration rate and you can then work out the net torque from that, then simply subtract the input torque from the ffb motor to work out the sim-drivers torque input. Feed the sim-drivers torque back to the sim and solve the net forces at the steering wheel at the net ffb/physics cycle and sent the ffb wheel it's next position target by by next ffb/physics cycle...rinse and repeat.)


The sim should actually almost ignore what the driver is doing, there should be no reason to account for the drivers input by way of force or torque, it only needs to know the position of the real life wheel, whether the position is being altered by the driver or not really doesn't matter. The wheel simply reacts to what the car is doing, if you let the wheel move on it's own without touching it, then it should simply turn however it should based on the physics, but if you hold it, then suddenly you're stopping the front wheels from turning, and then that changes the torque signal since the front wheels aren't doing what they were doing before. So the signal which shows the position of the hardware, which is sent to the software is basically the input that the driver is giving to the sim, so the only important aspect of the drivers' input is already being calculated, which again, is the position. There's really no point in trying to measure how much torque or force the driver inputs since the front wheels really won't care, the front wheels just react a certain way depending on their position relative to everything else going on with the car itself, and that's the signal being sent to the wheel. It doesn't disconnect since the position of the steering wheel is partly what determines the FFB torque signal since the position of the steering wheel controls the front wheels and the front wheels control the torque signal, which controls the position of the steering wheel, which controls the front wheels, which controls the torque signal, which controls the position of the steering, which controls the front wheels, and etc, etc, for infinity, in a loop.

In theory i agree but in practice it is not and can't be because with that order of input and output used, there is an inherent lag caused by this method and inherent under/overshoot problem that cannot be removed which causes problems like you've described to me. I'd really need to explain the differences in detail to show you how and why i think leo's alternative method is better. This isn't meant in a condesending way whatsoever but i was in you exact same shoes for a good few months thinking exactly as you do now until the pieces started to fit together over time and i began to understand what leo was saying and came to realise his logic was in fact correct (or at least i believe so...could be wrong ofc but i don't think i am).

It's very late here an i've got to get up early to help some friends out so i'll likely not reply until the evening.
 
If you can explain why it's actually necessary to measure the driver's input by force rather than position, then that would clear up a lot of my confusion, since i currently don't see why that would be necessary regardless of the motor type.


If I hold the wheel still and the motor needs to apply 5 Nm of torque, how does it know when it has reached it's target?
 
Back
Top