DD I have experience in rF2 with a g27 and now with a GT3 RS V2, IMHO the belt worth the change, and the small fan for cooling too.
Hasn't happened on mine so far, and I have abused it. And another thing ..... They run at their max stall current? What all the time, no matter what settings you use on the wheel and in the game? How? When the karts came out my wheel had hours of use at ridiculous levels of ffb, nothing bad happened, well not to the wheel, I on the other hand was bruised and sore.
Well I don't understand then, if there is a type of racing that is more intensive than karts at 1.3+ ffb multi I haven't come across it. My csw will do hours of this without anything happening, I must be running my motors flat out like this. He states they overheat after 5-10 minutes and your ffb reduces, presumably this is during less intensive racing than I have just described, which means I can't understand. Is my one special? Have they changed something? Or is it that one csw exhibits a fault for one person, they do a big write up about it that loads of people read, rinse and repeat, a few more say yes mine too, and then in some sort of viral manner all csw's inherit the same problem? I was so convinced by this talk I held off and held off before I caved in and bought one, then I left it on for 24 hours when I got it, and deliberately abused the hell out of it so that I could confirm they are indeed all rubbish and send it back for a refund, carry on with saving for a servo wheel. Hasn't happened. And it isn't weak on the ffb at all, most vehicles require turning down. What am I doing wrong?
I also wrote several times before and in this thread also, I've never had those motor problems, overheating and losing FFB after 10 minutes, and I drove it intensively too for several hours, also with the karts and the heavier BMW rim. So when I read something like that, motors overheat after 5 minutes it doesn't seem like true, can't really tell if someone is talking for real or just jumped the 'spread the bad word' bandwagon. But hey, things can happen ofcourse. There will be always more people that complain than others, the others are keeping quiet an enjoying their equipment
Regarding the CSW motors, it seems that there is quite a bit of inconsistency in motor quality. Some can handle more load and heat while others fail pretty easily. The motors in mine have gotten quite hot using only moderate force settings. I could smell the coating on the windings beginning to burn. I have since been careful to monitor the air temps coming out of the base and turn the force settings down at the first sign of warm air. I generally run the forces at about 60 - 70% in most games without issue. Ultimately, I will want to buy a servo-driven wheel but, until then - I will enjoy using the CSW. If it breaks out of warranty, it's good to know that there are options available to repair the CSW and make it even better than new.
The only ones I have heard about are the csr's not csw's and whilst they may use the same motor, they don't use the same belt or pulleys, there may be other differences, all of which may contribute to them not burning out. Most likely though is more csr's had the faulty batch of motors than csw's. I guess ambient temps could be a factor, I keep a fairly cool house at around 19-20c.
Sorry I wasn't clear when I typed that. At max FF that the wheel can deliver, of course. From what I've read the CSW will drive those motors to their rated current capacity while the T500RS does not. But one doesn't have to push the wheel that hard, turn down your FF and you reduce the current through the motors. Here's a good indication of heat build-up: http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threa...ate-february-2014.274631/page-45#post-9409960 I'm not sure how high my CSW's FFB is. I mostly run rF1 at 80% in-game but then I have Real Feel setting the torque and I forget what that's set at. The FFB isn't super high. I've cranked it up in other games and I know how high it can go in this wheel (which is like... a lot)... I probably run at about 1/3 to 1/2 of max. I really notice it with the Blancpain mod. After 5 or 6 laps the FF gets lighter... after the race I can smell hot metal at the side of the wheel. This is a CSW that just came back from warranty with new motors after the original motors started to fail after 11 months. Am I jumping on the bandwagon? Nope, just sharing my experiences. I knew all this before buying the CSW and decided it was a good tradeoff for the other good features of the wheel.
Ok good to know, I only run the karts high, because well they work better when you do! Not smelled anything suspicious so far (from the wheel!)
I do find it hard to understand/explain the different user experiences with the CSWs. One guy in my league was one of the community testers and his beta-spec wheel is doing just fine. Others like me are needing new motors before 12-month mark. It is what it is... that's why I keep my G27 safely stored away for eventual backup wheel duty
I wonder how many of the steering wheel failures are caused by rough treatment. Not saying that's the cause in all....but you have to figure some. On average, my wheels last about 8 years during daily use. My Momo Force finally gave up the ghost a few weeks back during system turn on self calibration. The plastic drive shaft snapped completely off. In all the years of owning that wheel I can say it never once hit the mechanical stops during a racing session.
Check this out....used it when I got mine...perfect... http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.php?t=19034 Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Thank you very much for pointing me to that thread. I'm coming from a G25 and I'm trying to figure out how to set my degrees of rotation and how it should be in the game. Any thoughts on this for the T500?
Just set it at 900 and let the game do the rest...Make sure its set as vehicle set (green button) and that's it Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
t500 control panel: Overall ffb effect strength: 70% Constant gain: 100% Periodic gain: 100% Spring gain: 0% Damper gain: 0% Centering: 0% "steering torque minimum": 3% ("0.03000" < must be an exact 5 decimal point figure) Car specific ffb multi: Megane: 0.75-0.77 Karts: 1.0 Ponaz: 0.84-0.86 Can't remember more off the top of my head and no where near my pc to check. If you follow the OP in the linked thread you will see how to find the optimal car specific ffb multi value per car. Lastly.... ffb smoothing: 0
Murtaya, regarding your previous post in the page before, you can't really have an opinion of the csw's relative strength based on your own or some body builders opinion, that would be unfair (only against your previous wheel). At the same time, i haven't tried a csw directly so there is a chance that the force is different compared to a csr elite but i am still not convinced of this theory and no one has presented information demonstrating this to be true so i default to believing it is exactly the same. Motor life expectancy is based on the total time the wheel is used and not how long you've had it. So someone who finds their motors fail in a year could be 2-3 years for others if they used the wheel 2-3x less frequently or 6 months if they used the wheel 2x more frequently. Don't forget, i said before that when i got my csr elite from a g25 it was a good improvement and i was suitably impressed with the increased ffb strength (could now feel the williams f2 cars where before i could not on the g25). If i ramped up the ingame ffb strength to 1.5 too it would be very strong all the time but with severe clipping (but still the maximum 100% ffb force would not be as strong as my t500 from experience...from my own experience, it is night and day and more so than from a g25 to a csr-elite).
Technique could be a factor in this wheel strength debate. For example, driving the karts is much more tiring with the G27 then the T500 becase I have to keep my arms tensed to be very precise with the steering, tbh this could actually be to do with the position of the wheel mount as it's setup for the T500, but its something to think about. For anyone who's interested, my T500 has been broken for a fortnight now, the problem is that it works for 5minutes then cuts out, then works again 30mins later (something I didnt realise until after TM had sent me a replacement power supply,) so now I'm waiting on a replacement mainboard which is in the delivery depot but being bank holiday weekend I have to wait until tuesday to pick it up. Hopefully this works, the customer service guy wouldn't pass comment on whether it is likely to fix it or not.
