Well OK, I don't want to open new thread about it, and OP from this thread already said he made his decision, so I guess it will be no harm done for one offtopic post. I will just post an image and a video to show what I did. I've built a DIY home simulator using car windshield wiper motors as they can be found pretty cheap, the electronic board for controlling them can be pricey though. If you have your own wheel and PC, all this can be made for about 400-500$. A cheaper solution for those who cannot afford pricey SimXperience stuff or even commercial simulators from 2000$ and above. The image of the cockpit is taken at building and testing process of the simulator and so is the video. My simulator is now disassembled as I'm working on another project. In the video is my friend driving Assetto Corsa at old Monza which is very smooth so there are no big movements and throwing around. Everything works very well with RF2 too. I did built another type of DIY simulator before, there are some videos on my channel too. For much more detailed informations, head over to www.xsimulator.net and their forum, there are so many good DIY projects. http://imgur.com/VeFT7EW
That does not mean you are anywhere close to realistic torque delivery, let alone constant torque. I think F2Chump is referring mostly to those things, the tiny force feedback motors are simply too weak.
Hi picked up my T500 from Dabs. Was £330 and it is the GT6 wheel. Can't compare to others as been on XBOX controller till I got this very happy with it. Been using with Race 07 and just got it setup on rfactor feels real plugin Sent from TapaToak
Enjoy your purchase. If I could go back I'd replace my Porsche GT3 v2 bundle purchase for the T500. I haven't run it too much but at about 10 months old it's got an annoying whine from friction (not from the belt but other wheel parts) and the alcantara was a nice aspect in the beginning but it's over-extended its welcome. It all also feels quite cheap, I have strong belief things will die on me shortly after my warranty period runs out.
Yeah right, it just happens to be the case that rf2 delivers the full FFB signal, but wheels like G27 and below have pissweak FFB motors of 10w vs 65w in T500/CSW, and 150w+ in servo wheels. My other older sims exhibit no problems, but rf2 is the worst offender, but that's down to the FFB strength...as for AC, that games feels more and more simcade to me the more I drive it, but it could also be FFB related. I own most of the sims since GTR 2005.
Thanks yep loving it so far. I did have and old thrustmaster Modena wheel, When GTR 2 came out was very impressed with that even though it was a long time ago. Been racing him in empty online rooms on Race 07. Mainly on GT Pro on the Ring. I have got from 8mins 30 to 7mins 15 with Xbox controller. Just managed a 6mins 55 with the wheel so far Sent from TapaToak
I can Show you an old Motor and a new one. The old Motors are shorter than the new, i have to search them for taking a Picture but it is true, the new Motors are different and less sensitiv. The Motors are used for AC Cars and not only for Printers and i know many People who upgraded from the t500 to the CSW and all of them are saying that the torque is nearly on the same Level.
Hmm, please do. I would live to find out more whether this is the case. I've given the csr-elite and the CSW (by proxy) a lot of flak due to the motors but I would like to be corrected if I'm wrong about the latest csw's. I still find it hard to believe they could be the same though, because if the motors are around the same physical size then the power will not be much greater and the combined power from the 2 motors in a csr-elite are around 2-3 times less than that of the single motor in the t500.
Been trying to tell you mate.... My buddy is a bricklayer and plasterer, I would not choose to arm wrestle him unless I had recently acquired extra insect dna through teleportation. After 30 minutes on Karts with my csw on 1.5 multi he knew all about it in his arms. No he didn't get a compound fracture, but he got a work out. All the facts and figures, and this motor is used in this and that. It's all irrelevant when you try it in real life. The csw has plenty of strength, I can assure you if it was no good I would have sent it straight back. I'm like that. I am not and never have said it is as strong as a t500 because I have not tried one, but until I try one of the new breed of "professional sim wheels" I'm sure I will regard it as more than adequate. I'll say this about the csw as well, it seems expensive until you get it, then you wonder how they do it for that price, it screams quality in comparison to all other wheels I have seen. It's about the same price as a good graphics card, isn't it the same importance? Certainly is if your main use is racing sims. Regarding the csw vs the t500 I think it would be interesting if you could make a test (or is there one already?) where the wheel is rotated lock to lock like when it calibrates, but the test would ask for full speed when doing this. I think the stall torque figures from motor manufacturers tell you very little in practice, just theoretical possibilities. When you combine all the other mechanics going on in a belt wheel you need more than the motor stall torque to make a purchase decision. The figures we want are acceleration, deceleration, and total time lock to lock. The stall torque of the motor isn't comparable between the two wheels anyway since they use different belt types and the fanatec will slip before it stalls the motor (would be my guess I'm not trying it!) whereas the t500 is toothed I believe so will either stall the motor or shed belt teeth first depending on the strengths of the two. My guess from videos would be the t500 would come out on top in this test, it looks fast, I have always said I would like a faster motor in fanatecs products, not more torque. Probably wouldn't be possible without different belts and pulleys, I would expect slippage. Really the only fair way to measure torque is at the axis of the wheel, which would involve too much hassle to do a test across multiple wheel types. You have definitely let your experience of a different product (that was probably just a lemon anyway) cloud your judgement on the csw DrR1pper, I'm sure of that having had mine for nearly a month now. I will miss it when its gone that is for sure; which is how I judge any significant purchase.
That listing selling only the pedals ended at £163 (+£7.50 for delivery). Delivery on the T500 will be about £10 from alternate. So £304 total, then even after ebay fees for selling the pedals that would leave you with a T500 wheel at a cost of around £160. Great way to do it if you can afford to be out the extra money until you get the pedals sold. Anywhere from £120+ for the pedals would see you alright
There is an aftermarket adapter for the T500 pedals that will let them be used as a separate controller.
Biggest problem with the CSW is that the motors overheat and the wheel reduces FF within 5-10 minutes of racing. The CSW motors run at their max stall current, the T500's motor does not. There's a lot to learn in this thread from a guy that's dissected the CSW extensively: http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threa...e-modders-thread-update-february-2014.274631/
Shame ( for me ) TM do not sell the wheel separate. OT please...... I can't afford $600 for T500 I have good working Clubsports Pedals v1.0 Fanatec have a GT2 bundle you get a free set of Elite pedals worth $199 http://au.fanatec.com/index.php?route=module/configurator&bundle_id=22 G27 - $299 -------- OR------GT2 + Elite pedals - $330 ? G27 I would have a new shifter. GT2 I can use plastic Fanatec shifters from my Turbo and Carrera wheels. Both ways I will have a spare pedal set. I like belt drive in rF2 and think I would prefer but have no G27 experience to compare.
There are three aspects that contributes to the performance of the wheel. Method of relaying the motors force to the wheel, power supply and the motor itself. Gxx series and Fanatech is using fairly similar motors which are quite weak. Do not know what T500 is using but somebody mentioned wattage around 65W. If you put out lot of wattage from the power supply you will “only” create heat with your motors when weak motors are used. Logitech power supply is only putting out about 48W and I don’t know what CSW or T500 is capable of. Then there is the question of how are you relaying the power from the motors. Gxx series use gears which cause a lot of counter steer resistance and noise (not optimal for quick corrections). CSW uses grooved belts which create a lot of internal friction (not optimal for steering sensitivity). T500 uses toothed belts which can create a feeling of little steps on the wheel but the wheel will feel light and the counter steer will be quick. Internal friction of the wheel is a sum of drive mechanism + gear ratio. If you use high gear ratio you will have a lot of torque on the wheel but it will create more internal friction and can cause less sensitive feedback to the wheel. But the right ratio will lessen the heat build up of the motors and will not create too much internal friction. If the ratio is high then the wheel will rotate slower when it calibrates itself but you will have a lot of torque and “feel “ on the wheel. If the ratio is low then the wheel will be really quick when calibrated. What I am trying to say that the faster the wheel rotates freely doesn’t necessarily mean that you will have a great wheel. You might have a great wheel when you combine high gear ratio, low internal friction, powerful motors and powerful power supply. So servo drive !
