Well as far as rear wing a negative 10 setting is much less drag than a zero setting. These cars get massive aero push(aero induced understeer) through the turns when behind another car, has anybody been able to dial this out? I have to be honest, I'm not an Indy fan so does anybody know if the real life versions suffer from such massive aero push at IMS? Thanks.
Uh, yup, they do push... did you watch the Indy 500 today, especially the first lap and last 30 laps?
Thanks Emery, no I didn't watch the race but after some practice online I'm able to place my car better to reduce the aero push. I haven't tried setup options but car placement does make a difference. Anyway, the realroad on oval is going to be epic IMO. The widening of the race line is really noticeable. So far I'm quite impressed.
This is a known problem. I've reported it in the "bugs" section and the official sticky release thread. The same thing happens at Mills for example. I'm guessing that it'll be fixed in the next maintenance update for these cars.
The Indycars are in road course configuration at Silverstone, I know that. I'm not sure about Lime Rock off the top of my head.
They show up correctly at Lime Rock for me . Do we know if the push to pass is working in the dw-12 yet?
That's why timing is essential when trying to overtake on IMS. Get too close in a turn and you will have to fall back looking for another chance. Be too far in a turn and you won't get enough tow to make a pass before next turn. Time it right and you will overtake. Now it will be your opponent, that will have to worry. The typical sight at IMS is that driver being overtaken immediately lifts off and falls back 5-6 car lengths, just to stay clear from dirty air.
A couple of quick notations I've made on a few items that could use attention.. These are based solely on findings after running the car on the Indianapolis oval.. These are items not just reported by me, but others during several multiplayer sessions.. 1. The lack of a weight jacker in the sim hurts this car significantly, as it's a major tool for driving this car properly.. With rF2 having realistic track degradation and weather, the weight jacker will allow drivers to adjust on the fly to those changes as the races progress.. 2. The cars seem to have too much grip.. With minimal setup changes, running a -10 rear wing angle isn't difficult.. The car should be on a knife's edge, if not worse, when all rear downforce is stripped from the car.. This could be tire related or chassis related though.. 3. The tow seems a tad weak when comparing it to the real life cars and the run they get.. Obviously, these are all fixable.. For a beta, this is fantastic stuff.. Looking forward to future updates..
One thing you have to remember is that the DW12 has a massive and fixed underfloor. While ground effect can generate large amounts of downforce with less drag, it doesn't mean no drag. It seems conceivable to me that there will be setup combinations where the negative wing angle and the negative downforce it would create can be used to balance out the drag/ downforce of the floor in ways that can achieve higher speeds for qualifying. In race trim however, these setups would be less desirable due to the impact of more turbulent air from the presence of other cars.
If -10/-10 is the most trimmed out you can get the car, it seems extremely tame. When the drivers are going out for qual runs with very low trim the cars are (anecdotally) super on edge and very hard to drive. Yet, in RF2 everyone is running the same setup online for even the race, which would be unthinkable in reality. I would like to see rules that limit what setup/aero you can run for the race which would make it more realistic. Being forced to run higher downforce in the race should make the races better and more realistic. Most online races ive run at Indy, there isnt even close to being the draft effect that the real races seem to produce. In the real 500, if a car were close to a competitor off of the corner, the pass would be complete by the start/finish line, but in RF2 I find I'm still side-by-side going into turn 1. Just some ramblings/observations
Yeah totally fingers crossed. Because it is really starting to annoy me that I can't just race these cars on any road course I feel like. I love racing this thing, but I can't bear that at half of the tracks, the AI show up in oval trim. Huge annoyance. I want to be able to race at other tracks than just the Indy road courses and Loch Drummond, plus a few others. This is really a weird problem.
You can make the throttle response more acute and the rear more active simply by adding the ARB's into the setup.
That's what I found. The default "easy" setup that is packaged with the car really is way to easy on everything. I was lapping at the new Nurburgring circuit with the default setup, and I couldn't get any heat into the rear, it was so planted no matter what I did. Tried their raceier setup from ISI, rear got a lot more heat into it, car drove so much better, more on edge and faster. Still feels very planted though.
If you want the "on edge" feel on the oval, you should pump them tyres up. Less rolling resistance in theory should equal more speed as well. I know with my setup the car is very skatey but corner speed is faster and the car doesn't get bogged down. This car is feeling very satisfying to drive at the moment, especially in qualifying when steering inputs need to be minimal. Lots of fun for me.
That also brings me to another point. I have tried the tyres as 13.9 psi and I have tried them at 28 psi and everywhere in between. Although there was a slight feeling of sluggishness in corners with lower pressure, the difference isn't as much as I would have expected. Overall lap times weren't affected much either as I was able to do 39.600 with the lowest pressure and 39.550 with close to the highest setting. What I did find was the outside tyres were equal in temperature when both were set in the mid to high 20s (psi). So as ISI stated in their release, they like to be slipped a bit.
You need to stop the car bogging down on the corners. So minimum aero is the first thing. You can create more lift by raising the front ride height in relation to the rear. Stiffer right hand springs and shocks also helped. The most important thing in gaining the time was camber settings. Less extreme was better for me. So minimum pos camber on the left and min neg camber on the right was a good start. Then it's a matter of balancing the car so it drives the way you like it. Hope it helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
