Zero motion blur, amazing!!!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Spinelli, Feb 18, 2013.

  1. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Well I read that some monitors have certain settings/adjustments/features disabled/locked when lightboost is enabled, so maybe these things being "turned off" are lowering the amount that the monitor post processes, and therefore offsets (or more than offsets, according to your tests) the stuff mentioned in post 118?
     
  2. KeiKei

    KeiKei Registered

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    Exactly what I was trying to say.
     
  3. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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  4. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Does anyone know how to remove the IR emulator?
     
  5. mdrejhon

    mdrejhon Registered

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    Spinelli is correct. Many HDTV's use interpolation, and that is very bad for input lag. Some of them use scanning backlights, which helps, but most of those add input lag. Also, full-strobe backlights are superior (10x clearer motion) to scanning backlights (~2-3x clearer motion) because of the backlight diffusion problem between on-segments and off-segments of backlight. I've written about this in my Scanning Backlight FAQ.

    For HDTV gaming, plasma usually has less motion blur than LCD. However, there's some solutions.
    -- The closest thing to a pure stroboscopic backlight in a LCD/LED HDTV, is the Sony HX950 that has the "Motionflow Impulse" mode. This is a special stroboscopic-only Motionflow mode that does not use interpolation. It only does 60 Hz, so it flickers badly, but good for some console gaming. It has a little bit of input lag, but not nearly as bad as interpolation.
    -- There is the HDTV Refresh Rate Overclocking Guide to input an external 120 Hz 2D PC signal into a 3DTV (works only on some models) that normally only accepts PC 60 Hz.
     
  6. mdrejhon

    mdrejhon Registered

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    Actually, there's a way to disable it without uninstalling it. I've now updated the LightBoost HOWTO.

    The HOWTO now has the new INF file that supports the non-strobe 144 Hz mode (no LightBoost):
    http://www.blurbusters.com/files/LightBoost-Monitor-EDID-override.inf
    This allows users to more easily turn on/off LightBoost by switching to 60 Hz then back to 120 Hz or 144 Hz, without needing to uninstall the INF file.
     
  7. mdrejhon

    mdrejhon Registered

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    Good; 'pursuit cameras' are a different technique of capturing motion artifacts that stationary cameras cannot. There's also commercially available pursuit cameras ($10K+). I'm trying to build or obtain an inexpensive scientific "tracking camera" setup for my blog; but manual tracking can sometimes produce reasonable WYSIWYG captures, though it takes many attempts!
     
  8. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    I ask if there is a way to remove it because i don't want it installed now that i'm on a "H", lol.
     
  9. KeiKei

    KeiKei Registered

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    Don't know for sure if your registry settings were exactly same as mine before applying the tweak. I believe it depends on graphics adapter driver version (mine is 310.90) and maybe also on operating system (I have Win7 64-bit Home Premium).

    Start Registry Editor (type regedit to Search programs and files field) and go to location HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D. Then change settings for following three keys as:

    "EnableWindowedMode"=dword:00000005
    "StereoVisionConfirmed"=dword:00000000
    "StereoTypeSet"=dword:00000001

    These two keys below weren't there originally (at least on my system) so probably should be deleted:

    "EnablePersistentStereoDesktop"=dword:00000001
    "StereoRefreshDefaultOn"=dword:00000000

    Also uninstall monitor driver from Device Manager by right clicking on "Asus VG278 (ACI27...Override)" and choose Uninstall. After that click "Scan for hardware changes" button from above toolbar so Generic PnP Monitor is installed. Then reboot computer.
     
  10. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Thanks, will give that a try.

    Btw, having tried the non e version, I can't really tell any distinguishable difference apart from the contrast levels. The non e has slightly better visible grey but it's honesty nothing to right home about imo.

    Ghosting also appears the same or I just can't tell.
     
  11. mdrejhon

    mdrejhon Registered

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    Ok, thanks. So, the rule of thumb -- as I thought -- is that it's not worthwhile to buy the H if you already have HE, but that if you're shopping from scratch and you care more about LightBoost than 144 Hz, then you'll be better of getting the H.

    You additionally may also have a better-than-average HE model.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 1, 2013
  12. DrR1pper

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    I want to make a correction. It wasn't until i replayed bf3 side by side that i noticed the so called "anti-aliasing" properties of the non e version to the ghosting of edges when in motion. It does seem to be there but it's not exactly a deal breaker over the HE version tbh. The biggest difference i really noticed was in the grey scale test. When i have the contrast image test open, the reproduction is noticeably better on the H. I tried to take a picture to demonstrate this but it doesn't seem able to capture the effect at all but the difference is very real and noticable when viewing dark scenes/areas where detail is more visible on the H than the HE and it's not something that can be fixed by just increasing the brightness as a) both displays are already at the max brightness and b) artifically increasing the brightness on the nvidia control panel just washes out the entire display. This has a real impact (albeit not catastrophic) on visibility in dark secluded areas of BF3 where on the H you can just make out finer details that wouldn't be possible on the HE (again confirming the noticeable difference in the grey scale test).

    Again, this isn't to say the HE is a bad display or a bad purchase but having said all that, i have chosen to keep the H over the HE for this reason alone (despite of any slight benefits from the possible ghosting anti-aliasing affects on the H).
     
  13. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Well I was at my friends' again ladt night, the one with the lightboost capable monitor. I was even more damn impressed this second time around.

    I was playing battlefield bad company 2 at my house right before going there, and played it again there at his place. The difference with lightboost is beyond night and day, just freaking spectacular gaming bliss.

    You guys are right, it really makes you feel like you are there, as if the screens are a portal into another real-life world, the insane smoothness and clarity make it feel EXTREMELY life-like.

    Handling sim cars feels way more immediate and sub-conscious, you just feel on top of the car more, react so much more naturally and in-tune with the car, like you are really there inside it. Sometimes I felt like if I were to move my head in real-life, that the in-game view would move too, as if I was using some sort of head-tracking tech (eg. track-ir), but i wasn't, you just really do feel THAT connected.

    The way the track, the cockpit, the scenery, the entire image looks and "feels", is just soooo real feeling with lightboost, it's totally on a different planet from just 120 or 144 hz with no lightboost.

    Combining lightboost with a trackir or faceir or whatever it's called, must just be insanely good. Triple lightboost screens anyone? ;)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 1, 2013
  14. Jos

    Jos Registered

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    guys my framerate went from like 120 to 70 when enabling steroscopic 3d, is this normal??
     
  15. vittorio

    vittorio Registered

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    Yes that's normal. i get 1.5x - 2x higher FPS without stereoscopic 3D
     
  16. KeiKei

    KeiKei Registered

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    There is a way to start rF2 without stereoscopic 3D but still have 2D LightBoost turned on (if that is what you're trying to achieve). This way it doesn't affect framerate. For me it works by doing following:

    1. Open nVidia Control Panel
    2. Display -> Change resolution -> Refresh rate: 120 Hz -> Apply
    3. Stereoscopic 3D -> Set up stereoscopic 3D -> Tick "Enable steroscopic 3D" -> Apply
    4. Test stereoscopic 3D... -> 120 Hertz -> Apply
    5. Launch Test Application
    6. Ctrl+T so that 3D is switched off (may require long press if you have same monitor as mine)
    7. Esc and Close
    8. Untick "Enable stereoscopic 3D" -> Apply

    Now your monitor should be in 2D LightBoost mode even though stereoscopic 3D is not in use. Result is that framerate doesn't get lower in rF2. I personally use different refresh rate for desktop (144 Hz) and thanks to mdrejhon's updated monitor driver I no longer need to hassle with settings. Only need to do once the above method and 2D LightBoost is switched automatically on/off with rF2.

    Note: Be sure to use same resolution and refresh rate in rF2.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 9, 2013
  17. Jos

    Jos Registered

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    didnt work. lightboost is greyed out.

    im using a asus vg278h btw.
     
  18. Adrianstealth

    Adrianstealth Registered

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    Since I got nvida 3d (120hz screens etc) I can't use 2d now, 2d looks like some strange flat cartoon

    IMO the fps hit is worth the 3d vision, adjust graphical settings down slightly to compensate
     
  19. KeiKei

    KeiKei Registered

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    OK, too bad. Well I think DrR1ipper is able to help you out as he has same monitor like yours.
     
  20. KeiKei

    KeiKei Registered

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    Hahah Adrian! :) I think it's best for me to not even try it... :)
     

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