So, How Do I Know What Lap Time is a Good Lap Time?

Replay office will merge your lap with someone elses hot lap, its a great tool. You just need to get on a server with a fast driver.
I also recommend watching the YT video "going faster" by skip barber. Watch it in full twice probably.

Get out there and focus on one thing at a time, EG Making the track wider, Braking, Exit speed etc.

 

Thanks a lot. Currently I am trying to get the racing line correct. Getting better at it but still very slow though. Mostly above two minutes per lap. I will give up for today

 

I think this was the only thing of all the cool stuff you gave me that I didn't get. I keep meaning to but speed and lap times don't mean much to me I guess. Will have to give it a try. I kind of like it in Pcars.

Thanks again for all your help!!

 

I didn't read through the whole thaead so maybe this has been brought up already.

I like to watch real pro drivers in real cars. I am always amazed at how slow they look going through corners while killing my times.

 

Well, I have gone through all seven stages of grief and finally accepted my fate. No matter what I do and how clean I drive, my best consistent lap time is 1:59. I guess that's it for me

Thanks for all the help you have given, I really appreciate it. See you on the tracks one day. Peace out.

 

Could you send me your telemetry + recorded video of your lap?

 

Hi,

I have no idea how to share telemetry, even I don't know how to reach that but here's the replay file. I thought the replay file would be more in-depth than a recorded video. I actually did a 1:57 just now after extremely trying hard but I am sure it will work just fine. Thank you for helping

Edit: Installing Motec plugin and software now. Thanks for reminding me

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9-To3uVQWWFeW1rNHV2OTFTWms

 

Just keep at it. With time, you will certainly pick up more and more speed. Try more tracks/cars, different weather, etc. and broaden your skill set. Once you feel like youve reached your maximum on the dry track, try it in the wet. Brands Hatch in particular is a spectacular wet course, Interlagos(Brazil) too.
If you enjoy the GT500, you will probably enjoy GT mods like EnduRacers and ApexGT, and even Simtek GT3 World Series. All are good mods in most respects, some better than others in its own different way, all are totally free and IMHO absolutely worth having. These cars are GT2(Endu) and GT3(Apex & Simtek) while GT500 is more comparable to GT1, so a good bit slower, but these are still very fun to drive.

Cheers
rocket

 

I've watched it and I was terrified. Join me on official rF2 discord so I can explain further.

 

Oh man, I'm scared now I am on discord, nickname is the same.

Btw, Just found out that my wheel was the biggest problem. I always had that huge movements even in slightest move of the wheel. That's why I could not even stay in a straight line at high speeds so I had to constantly correct the vehicle, right/left corrections back to back.

So as I was reading a guide on how to set wheels with low rotation I figured out what was causing all those problems. Apparently, 90 degrees on each side is very low to accurately reflect wheel movements.

As said in the text, first I reduced steering sensitivity to 50. It was actually defaulted to 50 in the wheel software but I thought "hey, more sensitivity is better" and cranked it up to 100. The guide also said I should manually set the sensitivity and wheel lock in game. It was around 400 and I set it to 180, brought sensitivity down to 50.

Lastly, in the setup I lowered the wheel lock down to 9.4 degrees. In default values, even in the slowest and tightest corner I didn't use more than quarter of the wheel's turn radius. Now I can fully utilize the wheel. Moves are smooth. Even the smallest input is being reflected correctly. I can hit the apex and exit correctly very easily. I am happy to finally sort the wheel issue.

 

The original red-rim Logitech LWFF wheel (and its non-FF brother with the yellow rim) were limited to just 90 degrees of wheel movement each way, and even though I got used to it myself, I do remember everyone who tried my rig--coming from normal road cars--was just lost with it until they got some seat time. Far too sensitive to inputs if you only drive road-cars.

A Porsche 911 (air-cooled) sported a lock-to-lock turn of about 2.1 full rotations each way from center--over 720 degrees in each direction. I suspect that's still typical of most GT even today...but...

...that's also going to tun the front wheels thirty degrees or more off center. While necessary for street driving, in most road racing the wheels won't turn more than eight-to-ten degrees from center. Hairpins like "Station/Lowes" and (old) "Rascasse" at Monaco being among the exceptions.

There are many more slow corners in rally racing, of course, and the difficulty of negotiating those is just part of why the hand-brake turn was invented.

Generally, if you are having great trouble running near the edge of the track, or with "placing" the car consistently on entry to corners, you might have things configured for too much sensitivity. In which case you have two choices: reconfigure again for less-sensitivity, or simply put in more seat-time until you get used to your current rig. The latter may, or may not be viable for you.

In any case, time--seat-time--is your friend. A week or so is only scratching the surface.

 

Join a session/server which uses live racers database. All lap times are recorded and thus you can easily compare...

e.g.
http://internationalsimracing.liveracers.com/League