RFactor 2 Advanced Car Set up Guide

[rolandhaans]

Maybe because in a high-powered car you can produce enough torque to cause the less loaded inside rear to spin (thus reduce driving force from the inside rear tyre) but not with the more heavier loaded and thus gripper outside rear...hence oversteer tendency under throttle/power. Whilst in an less-powerful car, unable to produce enough torque on either of the rear tyres to cause either tyre to spin meaning both rear tyres will have more equal traction, (tending towards a) locked diff will cause understeer tendency under throttle/power.

Hi R1pper,

Thanks for that comment, I very much agree. It also led me to read over my own comment again, and I found that what I had written actually doesn't make sense I wanted to make a comparison in which equal diff setups could cause for different results in different cars, but somehow got confused It was your explanation and Axe's formulation of 'snap' oversteer that pointed me in the right direction.

So, let me try again. I feel that for example a tightly locked diff could cause a high-powered car to snap oversteer on corner exit under power, whilst causing for understeer in a low-powered car, just like you stated.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

 

[Squeeekmo]

Thanks for the explanations guys,
So in RF2 settings, is 100% setting refer to max lock or max slip?

 

[David O'Reilly]

Thanks for the explanations guys,
So in RF2 settings, is 100% setting refer to max lock or max slip?

The higher the number the more lock.

In my experience with RFactor 2 snap oversteer is very very rare and limited to bumpy or downhill braking zones in cars that have a weight balance mid or rear engined.
It is controlled by increasing diff lock on coast.
If you want to experience it drive Mt Panorama/Bathurst in the 911 (so BES or Apex not the URD Darche as it's not rear engined). The BES car is better as its diff has separate power and coast settings. The Apex when I last drove it only had one setting. So you had to settle for understeer on exit or oversteer on entry (the 911 needs widely divergent settings).
Try a little braking and turning when the descent from the mountain begins.

I have never experienced it with a high diff lock setting on throttle in RF2. The front just pushes wide. You might be able to provoke it if you really tried but that's drifting not racing driving driving (in my view) which is what the guide is about.

Snap oversteer is something that in my (admittedly small) experience with it occurs when the fronts suddenly get a whole lot more grip than the rears.
IRL the Ferrari 348 was famous for it and it had something to do with the wider front track creating much more front grip very suddenly.

In the RF2 sim as you add diff lock on power side it protects the rears, lowers wheelspin and lowers temps. It puts temp into the fronts as it makes them slide (fighting the diffs desire to push the car straight) and hence lowers front grip. In that situation the grip balance moves to the rears. Consequently and with all due respect to the post above I am not convinced that (more) snap over-steer with high diff lock settings can be anticipated as a realistic outcome.
Just my opinion and I'm just one bloke.

But its nice its got people talking about set up.
Thanks for reading the guide and I hope you enjoy it.

 

[Lgel]

Thanks a lot David.

 

[Axe]

maybe the word snap is not appropriate. I am not native English speaker.
so I would try to explain what effect wanted to describe:
with free/nonlocked differential when traction on inner tire is lost, tire starts spinning and engine power is not distributed proportionally but directed from outer to inner side and the power is wasted on spinning inner tire. so in that moment the car starts "just" to lose momentum and there is lesser risk to slide also outer tire/the whole axle. similar than in the winter in normal passenger cars when 1 tire is on slippery surface it is impossible to move the car, spinning that tire on slippery surface.
with locked differential/solid axle both tires has always the same rotational speed. engine power is distributed always also to outer tire even in the moment when inner tire has no grip. when pushing the throttle too much and break the grip also on the outer tire, the whole axle/backend is lost and starts sliding.

 

[David O'Reilly]

maybe the word snap is not appropriate. I am not native English speaker.
so I would try to explain what effect wanted to describe:
with free/nonlocked differential when traction on inner tire is lost, tire starts spinning and engine power is not distributed proportionally but directed from outer to inner side and the power is wasted on spinning inner tire. so in that moment the car starts "just" to lose momentum and there is lesser risk to slide also outer tire/the whole axle. similar than in the winter in normal passenger cars when 1 tire is on slippery surface it is impossible to move the car, spinning that tire on slippery surface.
with locked differential/solid axle both tires has always the same rotational speed. engine power is distributed always also to outer tire even in the moment when inner tire has no grip. when pushing the throttle too much and break the grip also on the outer tire, the whole axle/backend is lost and starts sliding.

Axe, maybe you are right I dont know but it's never happened to me in RF2 when increasing diff lock. Increasing the lock has always yielded more traction and rear stability.
Give it a try in-game and let us know how it pans out.

I hope the explanation in the document (which on diff is quite long) is correct in 98% of cases. If it is I am happy.

 

[hoover]

Interesting read, thanks for putting this together.

The document contains several "its vs. it's" errors though, one of my favourite pet peeves.

Simple rule: Put "it is" in your "it's" place and if the sentence still make sense, you can keep it in there.

Keep up the good work, Uwe

 

[Euskotracks]

Regarding the case of low torque cars and low differential power settings.

I would expect it to have no influence if inner tire is not trying to slip. If the difference between both wheel speeds is below the alllowed by the differential setting, it just shouldn't actuate.

The difference in wheel rotation can be caused only by two things, usually working in combination.
1. The different turning ratios of rear wheels while taking a turn.
2. The relative spinning of one wheel due to excessive power or braking.

It has been suggested that if inner tire does not want to slip (lower power cars), torque trends to split between both wheels causing understeer. IMO this is completely incorrect. Lowering the diff lock in power will never create understeering. It might not have any effect but never more understeer.

Therefore for lower power cars you can reduce the diff. power lock more without risk of oversteering than with high powered ones.

Increasing the value too much (above the requirement of the smallest radius turn) will create understeering in all types of cars.

If you fully lock the differential, the car can only turn by drifting. That is the extremest case of understeer.

Enviado desde mi SM-G130HN mediante Tapatalk

 

[Emery]

+1 to Euskotracks differential explanation.

Misspelling that glared at me: "breaking" instead of "braking".

And many thanks for the document!

 

[Axe]

now I feel snap was completely wrong and misleading word.
That was really not my intention to say that increasing diff lock creates rear instability, really not.
It gives its advantages and as usually it has to be set properly fitting the actual conditions because usually extremes in both directions (free/lock) does not work.
And your description in manual is correct IMHO I would not change it, my post is only addendum/reaction to rolandhaans post

 

[David O'Reilly]

+1 to Euskotracks differential explanation.

Misspelling that glared at me: "breaking" instead of "braking".

And many thanks for the document!

OMG where was that, I hate that mis spelling!

Edit #1
I went in and did a search using edit. There were 7 cases of mis use of it's.

Hint: The word involved is small and it's contained in this sentence. Yet the two rules are actually quite easy to remember. Rule 1: When you mean it is or it has, use an apostrophe. Rule 2: When you are using its as a possessive, don't use the apostrophe.Apr 12, 2012

Now looking for breaking!!!
Edit #2
There was one. Under engine braking Circa P20.
It too is now corrected.
Edit 3: there were 39 example of "braking" spelt correctly.

If any other of the 13000 words are wrong don't hesitate

 

[bwana]

Thanks for this guide. Setting up a ASR F1 for a league race and following your guide has gained me 2 full seconds and eliminated the front tire wear issue l have been battling for quite some time. Diff setting made the most difference.

 

[Squeeekmo]

While we're on the subject, you spelt Increase as "increse" somewhere in the solution to handling problems section.
No matter what, this is the Internet and any discussion can become a spelling and grammar lesson.
No one is safe anymore....Nooooooo oooone.

 

[Associat0r]

In addition to Lazza's R Factor correction, I would suggest to use isiMotor instead of G Motor or gMotor, since that's only the graphics engine.

See Here http://imagespaceinc.com/software.php

And here http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.php/1164-rFactor-2-to-use-gMotor-3?p=14580&viewfull=1#post14580

gMotor is graphics only. The community incorrectly uses that name. For example, pMotor is physics, different bits have different names. ...

Anyway, keep up the good work.

 

[Diogo Oliveira Falcão]

Thank you for creating this guide, high quality stuff.
What if you guys create a Motec guide? It would be great for people like me, who has some setup knowledge but sucks at Motec.

 

[Gupster]

Thanks for this David, very informative and instantly helped me understand some settings I was vague on before.

 

[David O'Reilly]

Thank you for creating this guide, high quality stuff.
What if you guys create a Motec guide? It would be great for people like me, who has some setup knowledge but sucks at Motec.

Thanks for the vote of confidence but,
there are people here who know more about Motec than I do and its one of those things where you just need to focus and work it all out by comparing stuff and looking at the data. Comparing it to car stat and to better laps etc. A guide would be very cumbersome and IMO wouldnt make it much easier.

 

[MarcG]

Thanks very much for this guide, I've had a quick flick through and it looks nicely detailed.

 

[Mydriaz]

Thank you for all that work

 

[Lou Is]

Interesting read, thanks for putting this together.

The document contains several "its vs. it's" errors though, one of my favourite pet peeves.

Simple rule: Put "it is" in your "it's" place and if the sentence still make sense, you can keep it in there.

Keep up the good work, Uwe

Didn't understand "****s"

Main problem isn't knowing what any setting changes in car behaviour. To me is which one i should start and then, when come back to specified setting when car changes.

Like, lets say that i start with brakes. Then start to mess with aero settings and start to get less downforce. When i should stop to change aero settings? Or if i change camber settings and get better tire surface contact improving braking distance.
Should i start with full tank? Empty? This is black magic to me. Settings are not independent one from another
I really admire who is able to notice wich setting is the one to change at given set up.