Project BruteForce2 - IONI-based DIY DD FFB Wheel

softslider said:
Hi,

My OSW DIY is almost in final stage and I'm going to buy noise filters(Ferriate Choke Cores).
Is there anybody who has knowledge about the noise filter and can say which one is better for OSW between 2 graphs in attached picture?

View attachment 19473

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I got the answer from GraniteDevices as follows.

"The graphs are quite close to each other, however, the right one (blue graph) has slightly more impedance around 20-100MHz. Even so, they both seem to be suitable."
 
You guys were right, there are holes on the inside cover to angle the motor more but I can't angle it more than a few degrees because the rear of the motor hits my desk so I have to either put a bunch of washers/spacers on all 4 corners for the mount to sit on or make some kind of platform. Frustrating!!!

jkn87 said:
spinelli, what rim do you use with your OSW? my osw is about to arrive mid march from tomo meglic and gotta find a nice rim but can't find anyone with button box for a nice price..
Click to expand...
I'm just using a g27 rim at the moment for tests, it's not really suited to play because I have it mounted really bad. My friend quickly made a sort of mount just to get the job done for early tests, lol...don't ask, lol.

For wheel rims my goal was the following:
 
Wheel rims.

I converted the Fanatec Formula Rim using the Leo Bodnar conversion chip (£50.00).
It was fiddly work* and I made a mess of it initially but managed to rescue it.
There is also another chaper ($12:00) conversion chip out there.

You need to be very careful and patient with the fitting of the chip. You need good soldering skills and some practice. You also need to have a good temperature controlled soldering iron, some solder wick, the corect solder. So when they warn you about all that believe them.
There is also a good more practical alternative to the Bodnar recommended process.

Having been through that minor crisis I have come out the other end with a fully functioning formula rim with 25 functions on it. So No button box here.
The chassis of this rim is steel so if you read anywhere about it not having the strength dont believe it.

So there is a £250 alternative for you which is very good.
 
davidporeilly said:
Wheel rims.

I converted the Fanatec Formula Rim using the Leo Bodnar conversion chip (£50.00).
It was fiddly work* and I made a mess of it initially but managed to rescue it.
There is also another chaper ($12:00) conversion chip out there.

You need to be very careful and patient with the fitting of the chip. You need good soldering skills and some practice. You also need to have a good temperature controlled soldering iron, some solder wick, the corect solder. So when they warn you about all that believe them.
There is also a good more practical alternative to the Bodnar recommended process.

Having been through that minor crisis I have come out the other end with a fully functioning formula rim with 25 functions on it. So No button box here.
The chassis of this rim is steel so if you read anywhere about it not having the strength dont believe it.

So there is a £250 alternative for you which is very good.
Click to expand...

You mean this?

https://github.com/darknao/btClubSportWheel/
 
Hey Spinelli with your large MiGe did you do the auto tune for the coil resistance in the tuning tab from granity maybe that would help with the notchy feel. With the small MiGe and the HKS servo I only run 10.5 amps and never felt any notching with low or high ffb.
 
I couldn't finish my post (post 148) so I'll finish it here:

I was honestly going to buy a knockoff rim on eBay as I thought they were fine but other OSW owners told me that some of theirs broke. I guess I'll stay away from them...

Here's a basic rundown of what I want, I'll probably just end up going with 3 rims (A,B, and C):

A) 270 - 290 mm (280 mm preferred) - not perfectly round - alcantara/suede - eg. Fanatec Flat1

B) 310 - 330 mm (320 mm preferred) - not perfectly round - alcantara/suede - eg. Fanatec GT

C) 350 - 355 mm - perfectly round - leather - eg. Fanatec Classic

D) 360 - 380 mm - perfectly round - leather or wood - eg. "classic car"-style rim


I'm thinking maybe just go the easy route and buy the Fanatec Flat1, GT, and Classic. It would be perfect if I could do 280/320/350, or even 290/320/350), instead of 275/330/350 but considering the price of most other non-knockoff wheels, maybe just going the Fanatec route, and sucking it up with regards to trying to get everything perfect, is the best option here.

I've been told the Fanatec Flat1 is actually 272 mm not 275 mm but oh well.

cookie said:
Hey Spinelli with your large MiGe did you do the auto tune for the coil resistance in the tuning tab from granity maybe that would help with the notchy feel. With the small MiGe and the HKS servo I only run 10.5 amps and never felt any notching with low or high ffb.
Click to expand...
No, I haven't tried that yet. I might though. I'm going to give it a week or two of use and see if the motor maybe breaks in a little as someone else mentioned their Small Mige's notchy/stickiness lessened after a week or two of use.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
To whom made OSW with IONICUBE 1X, I'd like to ask if you have experienced any issue at CONNECT TO DRIVE in Granity SW.



In my case, DISCOVERY FW uploading was done correctly after driver installation.

Then I was going to try flash FW in IONI. Simple V2 USB adater driver was automatically installed as soon as it is connected in WIN7.

In the connect tab of Granity SW, I was able to see "COM3 SimpleMotion V2 Adapter" correctly and when I press "CONNECT TO DRIVE", there comes empty list.



Reading Granity WIKI page, I'm checking from the beginning but no problem found till now. I just started discussion with Granity but your experience also will be highly appreciated.

- I used correctly straight LAN cable for the connection with Simple V2 USB adapter.

- In IONICUBE 1X, the DIP switch was on from the beginning correctly.

- 24V power seems well supplied. I didn't measure the voltage value but I see 12V FAN is working well after passin through Voltage regulator(24V->12V).

- LED1 shows LLS blinking and LED2 shows SSSL blinking. This shows the IONI board is not configured and this blinking state seems correct as it is not configured before.

- E-STOP cable connected but no motor connection exists yet for power and encoder.
 
softslider said:
To whom made OSW with IONICUBE 1X, I'd like to ask if you have experienced any issue at CONNECT TO DRIVE in Granity SW. In my case, DISCOVERY FW uploading was done correctly after driver installation. Then I was going to try flash FW in IONI. Simple V2 USB adater driver was automatically installed as soon as it is connected in WIN7. In the connect tab of Granity SW, I was able to see "COM3 SimpleMotion V2 Adapter" correctly and when I press "CONNECT TO DRIVE", there comes empty list.

Reading Granity WIKI page, I'm checking from the beginning but no problem found till now. I just started discussion with Granity but your experience also will be highly appreciated.
- I used correctly straight LAN cable for the connection with Simple V2 USB adapter.
- In IONICUBE 1X, the DIP switch was on from the beginning correctly.
- 24V power seems well supplied. I didn't measure the voltage value but I see 12V FAN is working well after passin through Voltage regulator(24V->12V).
- LED1 shows LLS blinking and LED2 shows SSSL blinking. This shows the IONI board is not configured and this blinking state seems correct as it is not configured before.
- E-STOP cable connected but no motor connection exists yet for power and encoder.
Click to expand...

Finally I was able to figure it out by disconnecting all connections between IONI and DISCO and just connecting USB cable for IONI.

BTW the Granity setting in the 7th writing of 1st page is for small MIGE using IONICUBE 1 axis? In the goals tab, CEI is set as IONICUBE 4 axis and I worry it is for IONICUBE 4 axis. Can someone please share the DRC file for small MIGE and IONICUBE 1 axis? I expect I'm able to test and tune my OSW once I get it.

Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
softslider said:
Finally I was able to figure it out by disconnecting all connections between IONI and DISCO and just connecting USB cable for IONI.

BTW the Granity setting in the 7th writing of 1st page is for small MIGE using IONICUBE 1 axis? In the goals tab, CEI is set as IONICUBE 4 axis and I worry it is for IONICUBE 4 axis. Can someone please share the DRC file for small MIGE and IONICUBE 1 axis? I expect I'm able to test and tune my OSW once I get it.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
The IONICUBE 4 axis is the right file to use with the IONICUBE 1 axis.
A big thanx to Joe Sullivan, all the required software and bits and pieces can be found at this url:
http://boxthislap.org/osw-documentation/?d=L3NvZnR3YXJlIHV0aWxpdGllcw==
 
SimuCUBE OpenSimWheel system is now real
https://igg.me/at/simucube

It looks like Ollie added a motor package that would be a good compliment to the SimuCUBE KIT.
https://sim-pli.city/collections/all/products/direct-drive-wheel-motor-bundle

$610 usd including shipping a good deal for:

MiGE 130ST-M15015 (with 5000ppr encoder)
Adjustable Motor Mount
Motor Shaft to Steering Wheel Adapter
Pre-assembled 3 metre Motor power cable
Pre-assembled 3 metre Motor encoder cable
Pre-wired Emergency Stop with 3 metre cable
DB15 connector and ferrite cores
Also is $50 upgrade worth it for the DB15 connector and ferrite cores

SimuCUBE Kit $399 usd.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Finally I was able to make my OSW move and I'm really happy with it. BTW I doubt the HV output(44.4VDC) generated from PSU is correct(seems lower than others). In my area, 220VAC/60Hz is supported, and measuring the votage it is 218VAC.

Hence I'd like to ask any OSW owner using IONI+Antek 600W linear PSU to share the "HV bus boltage" once in idle mode. It is seen in the testing tab of the Granity tool. Please also share the voltage and Hz information as well.

I was told from an expert that it might be no issue in case the transformer is wired to 240V.
For example, 240VAC : 218VAC = 50VDC : 45.4VDC.

If so, no issue. But if not, there is a problem with the PSU?
 
softslider said:
Finally I was able to make my OSW move and I'm really happy with it. BTW I doubt the HV output(44.4VDC) generated from PSU is correct(seems lower than others). In my area, 220VAC/60Hz is supported, and measuring the votage it is 218VAC.

Hence I'd like to ask any OSW owner using IONI+Antek 600W linear PSU to share the "HV bus boltage" once in idle mode. It is seen in the testing tab of the Granity tool. Please also share the voltage and Hz information as well.

I was told from an expert that it might be no issue in case the transformer is wired to 240V.
For example, 240VAC : 218VAC = 50VDC : 45.4VDC.

If so, no issue. But if not, there is a problem with the PSU?
Click to expand...

No issue at all with the PSU and no issue with IONI.
In practical terms, Bus voltage impacts only max rotational speed, maybe you'll have just few rpm less, you won't notice it.
 
Led566 said:
No issue at all with the PSU and no issue with IONI.
In practical terms, Bus voltage impacts only max rotational speed, maybe you'll have just few rpm less, you won't notice it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your answer. But I see there are PSUs with 44V and 52V. I would like to know why there is such big difference in the voltage.

In the product description, it is said that "They will work on both standard 115V and 230V at 50Hz or 60Hz. And the output is 50V/12A ad 24V/2A.".
I have less knowledge about electric part. But I guess it should be around 47VDC from [230:50=218:47.3].
My expectation is wrong? :confused: It woudl be very thankful to explain it clearly for noob.

Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
softslider said:
Thanks for your answer. But I see there are PSUs with 44V and 52V. I would like to know why there is such big difference in the voltage.

In the product description, it is said that "They will work on both standard 115V and 230V at 50Hz or 60Hz. And the output is 50V/12A ad 24V/2A.".
I have less knowledge about electric part. But I guess it should be around 47VDC from [230:50=218:47.3].
My expectation is wrong? :confused: It woudl be very thankful to explain it clearly for noob.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I'd like to share the answer from the PSU company. It might be helpful to whom has a mind to buy the linear PSU. The PSU is wired to 120VAC or 240VAC. Hence the output voltage is expected value and it is confirmed there is no issue in terms of functionality.
 
Softslider are you having problems getting your wheel working? or is it underperforming, the lower voltage shouldn't make a lot of difference, Beano said the IONI could run as low as 24volts.
From memory my 50 volt rail on the Antek runs around 51 volts @ 250 VAC @ 50Hz and my 24 VDC rail runs between 27-28 VDC which is a bit high so I fitted a regulated 24v psu, my mains power should be 240 VAC but I see as high as 260 VAC not good!
I haven't got Granity installed on this pc yet so I can't check the voltage inside Granity for you.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
cookie said:
Softslider are you having problems getting your wheel working? or is it underperforming, the lower voltage shouldn't make a lot of difference, Beano said the IONI could run as low as 24volts.
From memory my 50 volt rail on the Antek runs around 51 volts @ 250 VAC @ 50Hz and my 24 VDC rail runs between 27-28 VDC which is a bit high so I fitted a regulated 24v psu, my mains power should be 240 VAC but I see as high as 260 VAC not good!
I haven't got Granity installed on this pc yet so I can't check the voltage inside Granity for you.
Click to expand...

Thanks, cookie.
Now I can run my OSW. I was told from Granite that maybe I can set full current lowering phase current(from hidden menu) and FUV. But the phasing current setting doesn't work and I'm checking it with Granite. The reason I ask to measure the voltage is to clarify if the lower voltage is from the factory or any defect. Now I got to know it is from the factory as it is wired to 120/240VAC.

BTW have you ever experienced high frequency noise in fast steering wheel action? In my case, I hear the noise in the case. In below video, I did the action to make the noise on purpose. In the game, this happens in fast oversteer case and fast recovery. I'm investigating what the issue is. The noise seems coming from PSU(not coiling part) or IONI board. But not for sure between them.
[video]https://youtu.be/T6o7pflGOM0[/video]
 
Is there someone who used a Kollmorgen AKM52/53 with IONI and wants to post the Granity machine settings here ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top