THAT wasn't for you...shoulda been more clear.(actually thought about it...) Just re-inforcing for those who still don't understand the process. Like John
Hi, had quite a hard time to get this car on the limit. Unlike the Formula-Pro for example the tyres doesn't comunicate very well with me, they seems to have a very stiff carcass, with F-Pro tyres you can feel very well how much load you put on, which makes it a bit easier to find the limit. Getting over the limit however, is more challenging with F-Pro, especially in the wet. The tyre of the IR-18 felt pretty similar to the older DW-12, just with a more dense limit area, which is good. But still like almost every other car at rF2 there's still a tendency of to low drop-off of grip at high to very high slip angles, basically above 15 deg I think. Which seems to make it a bit easier to catch massive slides, evon on high speed compared to my real footage observations. I used only Standard setup so far, lately at "Indy GP". With that setup, the car is pretty easy to drive (besides my problems with tyre feel at first ), a bit to much understeering at turn in which makes the car not very competitive, but very relaxed on load changes. The car goes also relaxed over high curbs like at the chicane at Indy GP. The sound is very good overall, just like the other cars released lately, (For me it looks like generally improvement on this, since the release of the Tatuus F3 last year) with some following exeptions. The transition from idle rpm (standing in the box) reving up, sounds a bit odd, there doesn't seem's to be a separate sound sample for low/mid-range rpm. Something that bothers me a bit is that really off tyre squial, even with lowest amount of slip. Slick tyres usually doesn't squial, maybe if they are very hard compount and at very high slip angle. That's something we have with other cars as well of course. The FFB strebgth seems to be surprisingly low in generall, considering this car doesent have power steering like a F1 for example. With my DD1 (driver setting: FFB: 81%, FFS: off) I had to raise my ingame 'per car FFB' up to 60% to get some similar FFB to F-Pro (about 54% here). Graphically, just like the other cars, very good. Well that was a bit of a more critic feedback from me, especially compares to all the very positive ones. Please keep in mind those are some early impressions, I usually doesn't have much time. So I spend something like 40-50 laps with the car so far and all those with standard setup. Please excuse the many spelling mistakes.
This mod made me an Indy fan overnight. Old school at its best. Does anyone also have problems with the FFB suddenly crashing? This has happened to me three times now. Reset FFB is of no use. Fanatec CSW 2.5.
Since yesterday it happened to me too. In the new UI I had to change the settings to software drivers and to custom. Since automatic synchronization does not work. It always says failed. Maybe it has something to do with that? .since the new UI the synchronization between the wheel and the game doesn't work any differently.
For my DD1 I use Driver (vers. 434) setting: Max steering angle at 1440 deg. In game: rotation limit mode: software, max wheel angle mode: custom, default max wheel angle: 1440 deg., range set by vehicle: on. That works fine for me.
Lately it happened to me that I lost all FFB and the only way to regaining it was closing and restarting rF2
Alternates are supposed to have more grip, but faster or less consistent degradation. They have the rule that during the race both kinds of tire has to be used.
Today we have a comparison between Roman Grosjean's RL round and rFactor2 in Mid Ohio! Sure, I'm a hobby racer, but the parallels of this vehicle, its behavior, the gearshifts, the braking points, are unmistakable and fascinating at the same time!
I'm sorry, but I'm a little silly for this. Which options the best for Texas speedway (and Indy500)? Thanks (See image)
Indy is the Super Speedway (?) configuration. Texas I have no idea, but might be the "Speedway" configuration.
On wheelbase, the 119 inch one description says "Suited for Ovals", so that's the one I usually choose (Not sure about the 121 and 118 inch ones) About the Geometry I'm afraid that I can't say too much as that is new for me too
hello how to modify the wing of the AI INDYCAR for the races oval / superspeedaw indy 500.... the ai is always in road course mode whatever the circuit? thank you auto_awesome ps if you have set up to share
choose the car, click on the CUSTOMIZE button, then choose the superspeedway option and finally click on the Force Setup button.
Hello my friends. I need help! I always get a flat spot with this beast. Brake pressure is reduced, shafts are completely (!) open. Reduced brake sensitivity on the pedals. I still manage to destroy the tire again and again. My brakes are sometimes at 800 - 900 degrees! Does anyone have tips for better braking technique or setting? Know that car didn't have ABS...
Brake sooner and softer. Heat shouldn't cause lockup, it should be the opposite, once you exceed the optimum temps, your braking forces are reduced. Real world F1 cars can see up to 1000°c so your are probably at the upper range of brake temps. Fanatec pedals have a slider called Brake Force (BRF) the closer to 100, the harder it becomes to lock your brakes...and the harder you must press the pedal to get good braking.
