Can't get FANATEC CSW to feel realistic with rFactor2, any suggested setings?

I've spent 20+ hours trying to get the Fanatec CSW to feel realistic with rFactor2, but still unhappy. Can anyone share their settings please? Thank you!

CSW with both rims, Clubsport V2 pedals

 

Are you using fanaleds?

I have shared my settings in the recent FFB settings thread. What's your issues, and with which vehicles?

 

http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...-in-the-Zone-D?p=261413&viewfull=1#post261413
except the "problem" with STM value which is discussed in that post I am generally satisfied with CSW FFB in rFactor2, probably the best from sims or semi-sims I have tried (race07, nKpro, iRacing, AC, pCars, GSC, R3E)

 

I'm not sure if it's realistic but here are my settings:

In Control ini file the Steering Torque Minimum = 0.01000

In Fanatec/Windows drivers:

Rotation = 900
Dampening = 0

On the Wheel:
Sen = OFF
FF = 100
Sho = 90
Abs = 85
Lin = OFF
DeA = OFF
DrI = 2 (sometimes 1 - this effects the dampening in the centre of the wheel and therefore I think also effects your STM value)
For = 120
SPr = OFF
DPr = OFF

In game:

FFB multiplier = 0.7-0.8 (Karts and F1 are 1.0)
FFB Smoothing = 0
Vehicle Set = On

(also using FanaLEDS).

 

DRI = Drift. It's basically a setting that adds ffb in the direction you turn the wheel to reduce effort. This is more than likely to mess with you pure ffb data from rf2.

I set that off ("0") on my csr-elite

 

Hmm. I was under the impression that Drift somehow applied a multiplier to early turn to increase turn in to assist in drifts. IE: No FFB effect, simply an input calculation.

 

I think we're essentially saying the same thing.

I just said it in another way. So adding a positive ffb force with an equally strong negative ffb force will destructively interfer to produce zero ffb force.

 

Sorry my bad, not deadzone, I meant dampening around the centre / centre dampening (I'm not sure what is wrong with my brain these days when I type).

For me Dri = 0 makes the FFB around the centre just feel dampened & stiff. By choosing 1 or 2 depending on FFB multiplier, I cancel out the dampening feel I have from the FFB in the middle of the wheel and can feel more of the road. Does that make sense?

 

Hmm...yes and no. I wonder if what your feeling is like a road car with the power steering effect when you use DRI?

 

I use a drift value of 4 on my gt3rs v2. To be it feels less coggy and more smooth on that setting. I don't use any dampening or ingame smoothing and basically default ffb. I only adjust ffb mult. depending on car.

 

Yeah maybe, it's just that at 0, all I get in the FFB is dampening, or about 15-20 degrees left or right where there is only the (overwhelming) stiffness. Using Dri = 1 or 2, I decrease the dampening in this 15-20 degrees & am able to feel other FFB from the wheel.

I just ran a few laps on Dri=0, 1, & 2 & ultimately I think it comes down to the fact that my times are faster with Dri>0.
I will keep doing this and see if it is a consistent trend for me but I understand what you mean when you say it feels like a car with power steering, because to an extent that is correct but only around the initial turn of the wheel.

 

I wish i still had my csr-elite to test this again.

 

My CSW feels wonderful on all default settings with the exception of the FFB dead zone right at centre. The only change I have found useful is to modify the Steering torque minimum="0.05000" from zero. "Default" means all the non-linear stuff turned off; strengths at 100; no multipliers, etc. rF2 FFB is almost perfect right out of the box, so need to change anything. And we haven't figured out if the FFB dead zone issue is 100% Fanatec or only 50% Fanatec, but it's not unique to rF2.

 

Marc, am I right in thinking that your Force setting is at 100?

Also in the controller.ini line:

Steering resistance type="1" // 0=use damping, 1=use friction

What are you using?

 

Well, from your settings above:

In Fanatec/Windows drivers:

Rotation = 900
Dampening = 0 (or 100%, it makes no difference for rF2, but some other titles prefer the 100%, so I leave it there)
On the Wheel:
Sen = OFF
FF = 100
Sho = 90 (OFF)
Abs = 85 (95, just so you get that little vibration when you have stomped the pedal to the metal)
Lin = OFF
DeA = OFF
DrI = 2 (sometimes 1 - this effects the dampening in the centre of the wheel and therefore I think also effects your STM value) (absolutely must turn this off if you want realism and has no effect on STM or FFB dead zone)
For = 120 (I use 100)
SPr = OFF
DPr = OFF

In game:

FFB multiplier = 0.7-0.8 (Karts and F1 are 1.0) (I leave every car at 1.0)
FFB Smoothing = 0
Vehicle Set = On

Steering Torque Minimum = 0.01000 (I use 0.05000)

I just Googled the FFB dead zone issue (my only complaint) to discover it's a well-known issue!!!!!!!

http://simhqmotorsports.com/fanatec-clubsport-wheel/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZl3Td2_A4w

The video refers to a firmware reversion that might fix the problem...I'm going to gather a bit of evidence first, but that is highly annoying if Fanatec has not yet fixed this after months of knowing about it and several updates.

 

Okay, with Force at 100 & DrI at 0 I can adapt/live with that, it is heavier than what I am used to but I am not overwhelmed with a dampening feeling around the centre of the wheel.

I started with STM at 0.05 & worked down to 0.01 due to oscillation. However, I have gone back up to 0.05 with ISI cars and no oscillation (with FFB multiplier at 1.0). It seems to happen with the URD mods & the GSC mod (which also require a lower FFB multiplier as they clip too many times for me) & more prevalent in the F1 rim (which I guess is lighter). SO leaving it at 0.05000 for now & the oscillation when it does occur is actually more like a vibration.

Are using Friction or Dampening in the Controller.ini file?

BTW Thanks!

 

@Marc

Any reason why you turn the Sho (Shock) OFF?
As far as I know, those are the small vibrations like road effects and similar, I like to keep that always on, it never bothered me, but I'm asking also because your ABS 95% setting is connected to SHO setting, so if you turn the SHO off, the ABS won't have any effect on the wheel vibration either, if that was your intention, to feel the ABS in the wheel. If you wanted ABS for the pedal, then it will have the vibration effect on the pedal, but only if they are connected directly to the wheel base. However, I would recommend connecting the pedals to USB directly for better feedback resolution. In that case if one would like to use pedal vibration, it can be done through Fanaleds software.

These are my settings:
Rotation = 900
Dampening = 0 (or 100%, it makes no difference for rF2, but some other titles prefer the 100%, so I leave it there)

On the Wheel:
Sen = OFF (in RF2 garage at wheel lock check "Vehicle Set")
FF = 100
Sho = 100
Abs = OFF (My pedals connected to USB, managing pedal vibration with Fanaleds software)
Lin = OFF
DeA = OFF
DrI = 0 (but most of the time 1 to feel the cars end a bit more - if use DrI then wheel is getting a bit weaker so I put 10-20 more on the For)
For = 100 (This can vary from car to car, I have it from 100-120, sometimes higher if using DrI)
SPr = OFF
DPr = OFF

STM setting at 0.02000
Steering resistance type="0"

 

Damping. I can't detect a difference, though if you tell me there is one, I'll test some more. I have fiddled with so many settings, I may have missed something.

 

Both Sho and ABS are fake, so I would normally avoid them. I found that ABS at 95 provides just a small vibration in the wheel when the brake is fully (or past 95%) depressed. You don't need Sho to feel it. I don't have Fanatec pedals, so it's just that little cue that I have. Would get rid of it in a second if it interfered with the rest of the FFB.

 

I chose Friction because of the dampening issues I mentioned earlier. Like you I have fiddled about & so may go back and see if there is a noticeable difference with dampening.

EDIT: Tried them both and I prefer friction, although nothing between them...I just notice a difference in the centre of the wheel.