Can't get FANATEC CSW to feel realistic with rFactor2, any suggested setings?

What do you notice? The centre is the only place I have a problem.

 

I don't know man, here is a part of the ABS setting explained on Fanatecs FAQ site, under Wheels category:

"The ABS feature uses the vibration within your wheel rim (can be turned off by settin SHO to "0") AND the vibration motor on a CSP (V2) pedal set if it is connected directly to the wheel - not individually by USB."

I'm thinking that you're having a placebo effect maybe, caused by regular FFB effect present while braking. Try putting ABS on 10 or even on 5 if it's possible with SHO still at "0" and see if that changes something. If you think it's working regarding the Sho setting, your wheel should start vibrating as soon as 5-10% of brake is pressed.

 

You need fanaleds for it to work and it does work.

 

Marc it might be my imagination but on the Civics around Silverstone I was sure the deadzone was lessened on Friction, only problem is I went back again to check with Damping and I was getting oscillation in the wheel. The only thing that I changed was:

Steering resistance type="0" // 0=use damping, 1=use friction. So I went back to:
Steering resistance type="1" // 0=use damping, 1=use friction ...& again oscillation.

Since then I've been trying to figure out why as before after I took your advice on wheel settings and STM setting, I had no oscillation at all.

 

Sorry, not following--you have oscillation with damping, but not friction? If so, that's a reason alone to use friction if all else is equal.

Second, you get more or less oscillation after changing settings to what I suggested? Not much changed, so that is strange, but we should try to reverse engineer the changes to see if it can be discovered.

And there is a difference in the FFB Deadzone?

 

No, I switched from Friction to Damping, then went back to Friction, noticed a difference in the deadzone. Just to make sure I wasn't imagining it I went back to Damping again,and that's when the oscillation started (nothing else was adjusted on the wheel, drivers, in-game or ini file).

Well I've had to go back to STM = 0.00000 as even 0.01000 causes the wheel to oscillate now. All I've been doing is trying different STM settings to remove the oscillation but it seems only 0.00000 will do. Strange as earlier I was playing at 0.05000 without any oscillation & only appeared after I fiddled with the Damper/Friction settings, although I've come to the conclusion that it's unrelated.

Okay, that's me done for the night, my head hurts now.

 

Your head hurts...I know the feeling! Let me help a little. I can corroborate your findings that Friction does feel better in terms of the FFB dead zone. I believe it is simply because more feedback is getting transmitted into the wheel, so the situation where the dead zone occurs--when there are no or very low/few forces being transmitted--happens less frequently.

My theory holds true because unlike damping, the FFB dead zone gets better when you add STM. I get less FFB dead zone occurrences when I use 0.05000 than if I use 0.00000.

So for now I am going to leave it set to friction and 0.05000. I can't imagine that any more fiddling will make it better than it is. Fanatec has to do the rest.

Also, pay attention to whether you get small (tiny?) oscillations with the engine off versus on. I believe that when the engine is on, they are there by design/on purpose representing engine vibration.

 

Yeah I did check, I would switch the engine off yet the wheel would oscillate.

I came to the conclusion that my CSW base must be transmitting different amounts of power at different times. For me it is the only logic I can find as to why I can use STM 0.05 and run 3 full races with different cars/tracks and have no issue & then on a separate occasion experience oscillation on the same car/track combos with STM = 0.05, 0.04, 0.03, 0.02, & 0.01 whilst all other variables remained constant.

Anyway, I'm glad I wasn't completely losing my mind thinking the Friction option was better around the centre of the wheel.

 

I have never changed that option, it was alway at default - "0", to be honest I've never noticed it because it is well hidden in the .plr file and that's the one of the things that bothers me with this game, that we need to fiddle with those important game changing setting by ourselves, by editing some game config files.

That option probably exist there for years, but if I haven't heard for it here in this topic, I would probably never change it.

I still haven't tried it though, but if it happens to be better, I will curse a lot.

 

Well, I've had an issue with the feeling at the centre of the wheel from the start, so I ended up using the settings For = 120 to increase the Force felt in the centre of the wheel (obviously this increases the Force in the whole wheel) but on its own just created a 'thick' damping feeling in the centre, so I increased DrI = 1 or 2 to decrease the damping and found the Friction setting also helped to experience other FFB in the centre area (instead of just damping).

But Marc stated DrI introduces an artificial sensation (Dr1pper described it as 'power steering', which is correct to an extent), so the option now is to drop For=100, DrI = 0 & to get the ini file to choose Friction & STM= 0.05 (although this last part I'm having an issue with atm). The in game FFB multiplier can also now stay at 1.0 for pretty much most the cars, definitely all the ISI ones.

 

I have always had an issue that after a re-boot, or sometimes just for no apparent reason, the forces are stronger or "better." It is infuriating when you spend so much time tweaking and finally seem to get it right and then go back in later and it's different. My settings are derived after years of fiddling and this cyclical frustration.

 

I hope you can get it all sorted but I really don't mean to infuriate you anymore than you already are when i say that when you've had enough....get yourself a t500 like i did from a csr-elite. You can easily sell your CSW for the cost of a brand new t500 with a 458 rim (if you don't like static paddles too) and i don't think you will regret it. Stick it on ebay as a buy it now for a good cost and it's just a matter of playing the waiting game until someone buys it off you at your asking price. Took me over a month to sell my csr-elite but it was worth it.

Sorry to go off-topic.

 

Here's my settings for ISI's F1 Karts (feels damn good IMHO):

On the Wheel:
Sen: Off
FF: 100
Sho: 100
Abs: Off (CSP V2 pedals connected with own USB. Currently not using FanaLEDs)
Lin: Off
Dea: Off
Dri: 001 (have been using 002 for other cars, have to check this again with current STM value)
For: 250 (this is very important so don't be a pussy and try it! )
Spr: Off
Dpr: Off

Controller.ini:
Steering torque minimum="0.02000" (just copied value from some post, haven't adjusted myself yet)
Steering resistance type="0" (haven't tested friction value yet)

In-game controller:
Speed sensitivity: 0
Steering sensitivity: 100 (straight curves)
Look ahead: 0
FFB Multiplier: 1.0 (using 1.0 as many suggest it's good value. Haven't tried other values)
FFB Smoothing: 0
Vehicle Set: On

In-game garage:
Steering lock: Med (~3.9:1)

Yeah usually oscillates like crazy when kart is stationary but stops immediately when kart starts to move. IMHO minor problem versus how good it feels to drive.

 

Drift Mode (DRI)
When "Drift Mode" is enabled, the wheel has less dampening
which allows for quicker turning. This setting is
useful for "drifting" or cars that require quick inputs. This
can be adjust in increments of 1, from 1 to 5, 5 being
quickest, or least amount of dampening.
Or you can set to off to have full dampening.

 

A ha! Well that explains why I like driftmode, I hate dampening!

 

KeiKei, it's not a good idea to copy Steering torque minimum from someone else. It's specific to your wheel, two wheels of the same model can have different "correct" values. You might even need different settings on the same wheel depending on your other settings (firmware/drivers/wheel settings). For example my G27 needs 16.5% if I set ffb strength to 90% in logitech profiler, but only 6.5% if I use 107% strength. The easiest way to test is to do the "Min force" benchmark in WheelCheck. Of course, it is possible you got lucky and you actually need exactly 2%!

 

He might be about right, I'm using 8% with FOR set to 100 and KeiKei is using 250! I personally just use the multiplier in game and run between 1.4 and 1.7 for the karts depending what steering ratio I select (fast ratio clips easier than the low ratio (just in karts))
Should definitely run a range of settings - nobody elses are guaranteed correct, but can be used as a guide for where to start your own tests.

 

Guys, should I have Sho and Abs ON or are they "fake effects"?

I have G27 pedals connected to my CSR wheel through an adapter, so I'm assuming Abs should be OFF?

But what about Sho? It says in the manual I might miss developer effects if it's off. True for rF2?

 

For me they just feel fake.

 

...because they are fake.