Car: 2012 Skip Barber National #8 (mod version 1.0) Track: 2012 Lime Rock Park no chicanes (mod version 1.0) Best time without tow: 0:55,517 (sector times: 26,192 - 15,470 - 13,855) Best time with tow: 0:55,460 (tow at last straight) Notes: Used steering settings (Logitech G27); in-game steering wheel range 370 deg, vehicle set OFF and steering lock 19,4 deg = steering ratio 9,5:1. Car specific FFB multiplier 1.00, FFB smoothing 4. Logitech profiler settings; overall effects strength 107%, spring & damper effects strength 100%, enable centering spring ON, centering spring strength 0, report combined pedals OFF, degrees of rotation 900°, allow game to adjust settings ON. Used video settings; Sync: None/Off Game Build: 125 (should be OK for build 134 too) File: \rFactor2\UserData\player\Settings\Lrpnochicanes\ View attachment 5527 Not very common asymmetrical setup for Skip Barber National @ Lime Rock Park no chicanes. Note that national version has slicks and it can be choosed by going into tuning menu at car selection screen. Car really wants to turn right so little countersteering is needed at few places - especially on the initial part of the Big Bend (T1). For educational purposes default setup is better because it's much more sensitive to throttle usage. With this setup there's still some lift-off oversteering and I would recommend to learn control car's balance with throttle during trail braking into Big Bend. Requires left foot braking so that both throttle and brake pedal can be used at the same time. Happy hot lapping!
Once my brother was observing my driving and said afterwards that I'm constantly pressing both pedals simultaneous which was something I wasn't really aware of anymore. At first using both pedals at the same time is like trying to play guitar and speak (impossible that is ) but with practice one will get hang of it and eventually doesn't pay any attention to it.
Oh sorry I ment he was observing me driving a sim! My bad. Well, I don't race in real life and only done karting (mainly low power go-karts), beaten few snowmobiles to a state ready for recycling and also few practice sessions of motocross. Simracing is my thing even though believe I could be competitive in real racing too. Of course simracing is not the same thing as driving a real deal but on the other hand we get to drive all kinds of vehicles and tracks with a fraction of a budget compared to any real life racing and without any risk of injuries. Few clicks and off we go! Here are few sentences related to simultaneous throttle and brake usage in real life racing which I know are true: "Turbo cars use it to keep the turbo spooled for the corner exit" "This practice is pretty common on loose surfaces like in a stage rally" "In real life on a racetrack you do a lot of steering with your feet - left foot braking is really just using both brake and throttle input at the same time to maintain stability and adjust the attitude of the car thru a corner" Maybe this article will convince even the strongest skeptics : http://www.dellanave.com/files/f1racing.pdf It's not directly said in the article but at Montreal hairpin braking observe how much bigger gap there is with right foot braking when driver is changing from full throttle to full braking. Left foot braker is able start lifting off throttle and press down brake pedal at the same time compared to right foot braker who has to first lift off his throttle pedal, then overcome the upward motion of his leg and only then he's able to start braking. There's so much advantages in left foot braking that... well... if one wants to be extremely fast then it's really the only option. Sure there's some cars in real life which require clutch when shifting down during braking (or at least revs must be very closely matched if downshifting without clutch) and hopefully realistic clutch usage will eventually be implemented to rF2. Surely very hard task to make it right.
Keikei is right - it is common. There are two ways people do it - some use both feet all the time, like in Go Karts. That gives you the most advantage. THe problem is that is stresses brakes more, and not all cars can handle it (e.g., almost no street-legal cars can, even with modified brakes). Plus it's next to impossible when you need to use clutch for shifting. I cannot do it IRL, and decided not to do it in sims because I do not have access to cars that would handle it well IRL. But it is definitely faster both in sims and real life. Another way is to use the right foot most of the time and use left foot braking only when you need to brake without full lift (usually light braking for weight transfer). I do it IRL, but infrequently because it still feels a bit unnatural to me and it's useful in narrow range of situations. It helps to get the front to turn in a bit more without upsetting the car in very high-speed turns - same as a small lift, but with better stability. It is also easy to use with manual gearbox.
I drive with more FOV than that. When racing a mod like the Clios, or any mod that isn't a open wheeler mod i like to see the number on the other side of the Windscreen.
Always trying not to and certainly not with this issue! I'm assuming by that you mean changing steering ratio to value that may not be possible with real car (because those other settings are ment to make FFB as realistic as possible). Biggest problem with this issue is that there are so many wheels out there with different maximum steering wheel ranges that many simracers are forced to use lower steering ratios (faster steerings) than possible in real life. Also many steering wheels don't indicate maximum steering wheel ranges to game. So as long as there's no way of knowing or controlling what steering ratios drivers are using then IMHO there is no point of feeling bad conscience of using something different than possible with real car. BTW steering ratio 9,5:1 is not uncommon in racecars so it's not unrealistic but maybe not possible with real Skippy. And what is realistic steering ratio for Skippy? Is it adjustable? If it's adjustable what are the limits? I really would want to see rF2's current system changed so that steering lock will be replaced by steering ratio. And available steering ratio values for each vehicle should be those available in real life too. It doesn't prevent using "unrealistic" steering ratios (because ratio can always be changed by tweaking steering range) but it would be a step to right direction and at least to me it's much more logical than calculating the same thing from max steering lock and max steering wheel range. Steering ratio is simply universal value indicating how quick the steering is. Steering lock tells how much tires are able to turn. Steering wheel range is just a consequence of those two. Difficult topic.
em Keikei, i dont think its like that. the steering lock is, like its name - a lock. It simply locks the wheels from turning too much. i dont think this has anything to do with your steering ratio. Its just how much the car can turn. if the steering lock is too high, you may turn too much and you will understeer through the corner. if its too low, you wont steer enough. thats how i see it.
I think i´ll use that phrase in my signature: don´t be offended please, i´m illiterate. Thanks for the explanations.
Thanks very much KeiKei! This setup kept me playing this game - have had it for a few days now and my moouse was hovering over the refund/uninstall button pretty seriously. It was getting to the point that I thought this game was some kind of sick joke? Was literally driving around with 1 hand on the wheel like an old lady out for a sunday drive - as the F2 car just had absolutely no grip ata ll around palm beach with the default setup? Add that to the fact I was trying to figure out what wheel settings to use, and the fact half the mods I downloaded from the site don't even appear in the mod manager (Can only drive Skippy, F2 and Historic?)- and it was no fun at all. Tried the Skippy for a while as well and that is just as bad - absolutely stupid oversteer everywhere....don't even mention the Historic cars. But this setup really made the F2 car handle nicely - ok after about 20 laps only down to a 1"06.5 or so, but with some more wheel time it should come right. Thanks Again!
No, I'm not a setup I'm assuming you are asking for a Lola T280 setup This one is from Brianza, quite a fast setup. Did 1:21.601 there. Guess it can be used for Spa 66 too.
