I recently noticed a problem on my Fanatec DD2 a few times. After a session (race, warmup, etc) has changed, my FFB also changes. It becomes grainy and more raw. It feels like the interpolation filter on my DD base doesn't work anymore. Lately we had a fun event in our league with 3 races. First race was fine, but going into 2nd race the FFB got rough. And i didn't even touched my settings. I don't know, if this is a Fanatec-specific problem, but i have to say that rFactor2 is the only sim, where this is happening. And i have read in another forum, that i'm not alone with this problem. So ... is it a bug or something i could solve myself? PS: You find my wheel settings in my signature.
I can not comment on your specif problem because I use a CSW2.5 but Fanatec have released new drivers for all their wheel bases which may be of help to you. If you use Fanalab there is a new version. https://forum.fanatec.com/discussio...-v372-for-csl-csw-and-podium-bases-all-wheels https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/15205/fanalab-1-47-download-post-your-feedback-here
I've been chasing the issue since early 2017. I can't say it's not a Fanatec issue, but I'd gamble from all my testing it's an rFactor 2 bug. Fanatec GT3RS FFB-issue in "next session" https://forum.studio-397.com/index.php?threads/fanatec-gt3rs-ffb-issue-in-next-session.61465/
@vonddo Thanks for pointing to this thread. And here's the current status on my end: I recently updated Fanatec driver+firmware to the latest version (v373). Today i had a league race. Practice, qualifying and warmup session was all fine. But after switching to race session the issue (grainy FFB) occurred again. So unfortunately the newest driver didn't solve the problem.
@Ernie Thanks for the update. I'm very interested in what everyone else is experiencing. Have you tried tuning out the issue in your wheel? I had my FF at 100% (I read this was ideal) and in game car multiplier at a lower setting, on all cars it generally worked well, but SOME curbs rattled the wheel like crazy... almost like the signal was distorted. I now run it about 70%. I'm still refining my settings, but I don't feel like I'm missing out on great FFB anymore after I click the NEXT SESSION. On that note after upgrading to the DD1, I was able to find a good work around in the wheel tuning. Some cars work better than others. Hell... perhaps that's the key/missing link... that some cars just don't have the complete FFB data (just a theory). In my testing I've definitely have run into cars where I can't tune out (through the wheel settings) the NEXT SESSION issue. I generally keep to the official content (with the exception to the ASR mods) to keep myself from going insane trying to get everything to work.
The danger with leaving room at the top like that is that extreme forces are replicated. An extreme example would be running a 30Nm motor on 100% but 0.10 in game to feel similar to a standard consumer wheel. If you happen to encounter a situation that produces very high forces (I'll expand on that in a minute) you could get up to that 30Nm and break your wrists because it's so unexpected and much higher than the normal forces. Acknowledge the "just a theory" part, so this is just a clarification: cars don't contain FFB code, and the game doesn't contain FFB code tailored for specific cars. The tyres produce forces, the suspension is modeled and passes those forces through in the appropriate way, and the steering column ends up with a particular amount of torque applied to it. That torque is then scaled according to the controller settings (in the controller.json, some are exposed in the UI) and sent to your wheel. For any of this to go wrong in the game, would mean it would happen to all wheels. So the issue must (let's say 99.9%, it's hard to be absolute with anything) be in rF2s interface with the wheel/drivers, or some bug with the wheel/drivers itself - and somehow exacerbated by rF2s FFB. The first seems more likely.
Another update on my end. Yesterday the FFB changed to "grainy" even in the same session. I was doing some practice laps and then going back to the pits by pressing Esc. I repeated this procedure a few times, and then out of the sudden the FFB switched to "sand mode". My wheel settings are in my signature. Ingame i have the FFB multiplicator set to 0.55.
I'm just speculating but I think this may have something to do with a bug with the center spring option in the json. It should always be set to 0 as this is already built into car physics (I have no idea why we are still given that option). But yeh maybe this setting is turning on when the ffb resets sometimes. Sometimes, randomly in the same session, the ffb has high centering force all of a sudden, it is very obvious to me when leaving the pits. If i reset the car it will go away.
I have a suggestion that may possibly help. Plug your pedals into a separate USB socket on the computer instead of plugging them into the wheel base. I have my wheel and pedals in separate sockets on the the computer and both have been totally reliable with this configuration. I have seen posts that this configuration has cured some peoples problems with wheels. I also think that the pedals run at a higher resolution by plugging into it's own USB socket but I may be wrong about this.
Map ffb reset to your wheel and press it when u think the ffb has changed. I started to use ffb reset after every driver swap. Sometimes the ffb felt different and pressing ffb reset helped.
Two threads on a similar vein here, suffice to say reset FFB or latest drivers aren't fixing the issue. https://forum.studio-397.com/index.php?threads/fanatec-gt3rs-ffb-issue-in-next-session.61465/
I've had the same issue for ages with my gt3rs v2. Sadly never found any solution nor seen any reply on this from the devs. I hoped it was solved when I upgraded to the csw 2.5, but it was still there. Eventually uninstalled rf2, couldnt bother working around the issue all the time. (Also because the lack of singleplayer/ai improvements).
Which parameter and which json? My pedals are separate USB pedals, because i'm using Heusinkveld Sprint pedals with my DD2. I already tried it, but FFB reset does not fix the problem.
Steering spring saturation to 0, You may aswel put the coef on 0 too but it won't do anything if the saturation is on 0. Coef is the spring linearity and saturation is the strength. You need make the amendments to a saved controller profile (in the controllers folder) then load the profile in game. Not the controller json - i think that is a read only file and will loose any txt changes you make.