Hi there, I've been driving for nearly 20 years racing simulations and the setup is and remains a mystery .............. sometimes . But many things have become logically over the years and I can also feel much and adjust. But some points for me are simply not understandable and I hope some can tell me this here: It revolves mainly around the Formula Masters ... To note: I have of course read many of the available setup guides, but in these points have not helped me .... 1 Differential: What exactly change the values for power, Coast, Pump and preload. It would help me a lot if someone explained to me based on the driving behavior. So if you're this and that problem on the track you have to change this value you so and so, that would be really very helpful. 2 springs, Packers, etc. Basically, the settings are clear to me, but how exactly should you set the car, I stiffen the car when I increase the values or if I Reduce? I place the car usually actual front harder than the rear one, even here it would be great if we could someone explain the reference to driving behavior, roughly, if you override then you should change these values etc. Would also very very helpful 3 Last but not least, the explanation of the anti-rollbar and the camber settings would be very helpful here I turn something in a circle. Thank you for your efforts in advance!
Diff: Power: The higher the value, the more lock, meaning less wheel spin of the inside tire under Acceleration, improving stability. Too high will cause understeer under power. Coast: The higher the value, the more lock under braking and while coasting ( off power ). Higher numbers stabilizes the car, too high will cause turn-in understeer. Pump: No idea Preload: Preload of the diff, the higher, the more instant the transition of forces. Lower numbers means it will take more time for the car to settle, it depends alot on driving style and type of car. i would suggest playing with this value to find something that suits you and the car. You feel the difference of this setting when you trail off the brakes after turn in or when you get back on the power coming out of a corner Springs / Arb and Camber Stuff is more than well documented in alot of guides, so i'll keep it quick and simple: Camber: Try going for a 10 Degree C split between the outside and inside of a tire ( for example: Outside 95, inner 100, inside 105 ). Remember that the tire contact patch is not fully implemented / unfinished and you seem to get weird results ( always crowning tire temperatures, low or no camber yields faster laptimes ). In general, i think that most cars in rF2 at the moment requite alot less camber than you think / real life counterparts. Springs: Harder ( higher number )-> more pointy, less mechanical grip, worse over bumps, less roll / less camber change when cornering softer ( lower number ) -> less pointy ( too low -> sluggish ), more mechanical grip, better over bumps, more roll / more camber change when cornering, higher chance of bottoming out
I am not sure but I believe that differential pump is in the most mods is referred to simply as the Differential Lock. "rFactor Setup Guide: If you set Differential Pump to 100%, you're closer to a Welded Differential, if you set it to 0%, you're closer to an Open Differential. You'll see in telemetry that setting this to 100% does not mean that your rear wheels are firmly locked together, but it does offer a nice stabilizing force in yaw and generally better traction while accelerating.The downside of a higher setting can bee understeer and you may not like how the chassis loses some of its responsiveness. This setting alone can be used to determine your differential. It may be advisable to use Differential Pump in conjunction with Differential Power and Differential Coast asthere are some shortcomings of those two settings. Setting the Differential Pump at 0% will allow the inside tire to lose traction under power, i.e. on corner exits it allows power oversteer. Setting it to 100% will lock the axle, giving a more stable, but also more difficult exit, because of the resulting understeer. In short: the higher the value the more "stable entry + less stable exit" you get and vice-versa."
About the pump, i think Ari is right it's just another way of limiting slip in the differential. Gerotor pump[edit] This style limited-slip differential works by using a gerotor pump to hydraulically compress a clutch to transfer torque to the wheel that is rotating the slowest. The gerotor pump uses the differential carrier or cage to drive the outer rotor of the pump and one axle shaft to drive the inner rotor. When there is a difference between the left and right wheels' speed, the pump pressurizes the hydraulic fluid causing the clutch to compress. thereby causing the torque to be transferred to the wheel that is rotating the slowest. These pump-based systems have a lower and upper limits on applied pressure which allows the differential to work like a conventional or open differential until there is a significant speed difference between the right and left wheel, and internal damping to avoid hysteresis. The newest gerotor pump based system has computer regulated output for more versatility and no oscillation. Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited-slip_differential
Spot on and good in theory however good luck getting that on ISI Marussia F1 tyre. Centre temps are a problem for this tyre and it doesn't matter what camber, tyre pressures, toe angle & roll-bars settings you use. By memory I think this was also an issue on the masters. Please don't hold me too that. This has been flagged as an issue. Also I think you meant to say "Center = 100". Packer and bump-stop analysis have also been my achilles heal. Without pulling the vehicle suspension physics apart, I can not seem to figure out how to analyse when the suspension travels enough to ride the bump-stop.
I'm not sure this is is true, at least, in the 60's cars (the ones I drive in my league) it's the opposite. Power: The higher the % value the quicker the traction gets to the wheels and therefore the higher tendency to have the rears wheels spinning. The lower the % value the harder you can be on the throtle and not having your wheels spinning. The best value is the one that will give you a slight spin at turn exit that will help the car getting the fastest posible from the corner. Coast: The higher the % value the quicker the engine "retention" gets to the wheels. A very high value will make the rear too aggresive on the braking and entry of the corners. The lower the % value the softer the traction gets to the the wheels and therefore the car will be less twitchy at turn entry. The best value is the one as high as posible that will help you enter the corner and help you braking the rear of the car but on the same time will not make the rear too unstable when braking.
Yeah i meant "center", sorry for the confusion. As i said, the tire temps ( crowning ) is an issue, that 10 degree spread is the theory. I never get the tires to that temps in rfactor 2, more like 95-120-110 i guess. If you just read the numbers, you would reckon its too high on pressure, but no matter how low you set the starting pressure, it will eventually crown. Thats at least what i experienced.
One of the things you start to appreciate with RF2 is how all the car parts concur in the general handling of the car: Differential alone can change the car from understeering to oversteering, rear roll bar can make the front more agile, and so on. The downside of it is that several cars are very setup sensitive : you change a setting of one step and the car change a lot, but before going back, look at other settings that can smooth the effect. For example, usually we have rear roll bar quite soft, to help traction out of a turn, but this induce understeer, but understeer can be mitigated with differential settings for example.
That's why for me analysing data and balancing each corner to find that ripa setup is such great fun. I love the challenge of tuning.
Power + = more traction out of corner, but less corner stability. Power - = less traction out of corner, but more corner stability Coast+ = more stable under braking / downshifting into corner, less rotation of the car Coast - = less stable under braking / downshifting into corner, more rotation of The car. Preload = reaction time of diff. So for expl.: 60 Power, 40 coast = more stable in and out of corner, can brake late and hard or trailbraking 40 Power, 60 coast = more agile in and out of the corner, Maybe stepping out rear a bit in and out.
I'm not sure this is is true, at least, in the 60's cars (the ones I drive in my league) it's the opposite. Power: The higher the % value the quicker the traction gets to the wheels and therefore the higher tendency to have the rears wheels spinning. The lower the % value the harder you can be on the throtle and not having your wheels spinning. The best value is the one that will give you a slight spin at turn exit that will help the car getting the fastest posible from the corner. Yes thats how I understood it to work at the end of the day if you lock the wheels together 100% then the wheel that wishes to spin less (the inside wheel as its traveling less distance) will have no option but to spin the same as the faster spinning wheel causing wheel spin and un-stabling the car. I am by no means an expert just how I understood that it worked.
As for tyres, I tend to ditch the inner vs. outer fist rule and focus on inner vs. middle in rFactor 2. Simply tweak the tire pressure and cambers until the inner and middle temperatures are equal mid-turn. Then I try to figure out if I can bring the outer temperature up by decreasing camber and tire pressure, but usually I find it hardly has any effect.
I basically only drive touring or gt cars in rF2. The ten degree difference between inner and outer part of the tires is difficult to achieve. I personally use 15 degrees in rF2. Center part tire temps will in most of the times be higher than the average of outer and inner. In all cases tire pressure and camber to minimum values will not solve it. IMO the thermal part of the tire model is the responsible for these. The way tires are warmed seem not to be dependant on friction force multiplied by sliding distance which with rubber mechanical hysteresis and patch thermal conduction are the only components to be taken into account. But IMO is the first component which is not being correctly calculated. I am not a race engineer unfortunately and I dont have any real data to compare with. However I am sure that ISI knows which part of the tire model needs better refining sincd they for sure do have those data.
