Project: Steelseries SRW on a G27, advice needed.

Hi guys,

Now that "modding" (if I ever was really) has gotten to hard for me, I thought of another project that requires less thinking

I want a F1 type steering wheel on my G27; a flat one.
I looked at wheels, but nowhere to be found until I stumbled upon a "Steelseries SRW-S1" wheel.
That one seems to me like useless to use as is; lag is enormous.
However; I can make an adapter, screw it onto the Logitech base, keep my own flippers and reroute the wiring of the 6 buttons I have on the G27 to the buttons in the SRW. Get rid of the flippers on the SRW and so on.

I mean......right? It could be I'm missing something, please shoot at my idea in that case!

Another question; does someone knows where I can that that wheel (in the Netherlands)?
I only saw it at Amazon in Germany for around 45 euro, but shipping will be even more I think.
Does anyone have any suggestions to that? Someone have this thing in the attic maybe? (In the Netherlands that is )

Anyway; all suggestions are more than welcome, thanks in advance!


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http://www.nogripracing.com/forum/showthread.php?t=274851

 

There is no lag that you speak of, its USB cabled the same as all other wheels. I have one and my lap times using it after getting used to it was actually very good, but its certainly not a wheel you can pickup first time and be on it. Its muscle memory more than anything.

Anyway back on track, It's absolutely possible to do - there is a number of forum threads scattered around the web, videos on youtube etc - http://www.virtualr.net/g25g27-adapter-for-steel-series-srw-s1

Regarding buying it Amazon is your best bet, as amazon has a massive network shipping shouldn't be too much at all. Alternatively you can email SRW directly or Steelseries who make/made the wheel (they are based in the EU somewhere can't remember where exactly.)

I would offer mine as the paddles broke after 2 years of use however i plan to keep it for other reasons.

 

@ Deak1944, there is some nice information in there, thanks!

@RJames, I thought I saw that in a movie on youtube, the lag I mean.
Anyway, I want to mount it anyway so I have FFB, so its no concern.
Nice link btw, going to study that

I looked at Amazon, the German one is cheapest, but I find it "scary" to order when I don't speak the language to well.
Also, on "those sites" you have to pay with paypall it seems to me and I wasn't able to make me an account before.
When not thinking straight; better not make financial transactions abroad, right?

So I will have to look at second hand sites I guess and hope

Thanks guys!

 

You should be able to login to Amazon using your local amazon account, and just use something like Google Chrome Translate on the webpage.

I know what you mean regarding ordering from abroad however i've done it a few times via amazon with no issues. Infact i've ordered from the German Amazon before because the product was cheaper than the UK Amazon and the product was sent out from the UK depot anyway.

Anyway, its a fun project something i'd planned to do on my G25 before eventually upgrading to a T300. Let us know how you get on!

 

Hi Nav,
I went the decidedly low tech route of epoxy which I used to bind a 1cm thick piece of wood to the back of the SRW. Then I screwed the plastic coupling found on the back of the G27 wheel to this. After that it is a simple matter of sliding this on and off the shaft of the wheel base. FYI, I dismantled the G27 paddles and use the paddles on the SRW. The bigger analog paddles I use as a hand clutch when racing formula cars.
Whatever way you manage your project be sure to download the dial utility so you can use the dials (http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/6450-releasing-srw-s1-dial-utility-beta-16/) and fanaleds utility (http://www.fanaleds.com/)to get the rev lights working.

 

Here you can find a QR Adapter inkl. Mounting Bracket for the G27:

http://simulaje.blogspot.com.es/2012/07/sistema-quick-release-jz-datos-tecnicos.html

 

Very handy hints and links guys, thank you very much!

Going to look into the Amazon thingy and order myself one (if I get it done ) and will show the result here!

 

Well, took me some time and got some help; I ordered the wheel (YES!!) at Amazon in Germany. Only 42,95 euro...... Here in the netherlands, the cheapest is 115.
A big plus was I could pay with Visa; didn't expect that.

So, I looked a lot of youtube movies, all the links I have studied, but I still have ONE question.......may I?

Sorry RJames, but I do see some lag in all the movies and I want the game to take the rotation from the G27. But only that.
As I see it, the SRW has:
- shift light working
- a lot more buttons on the wheel itself
- I can choose which paddles to assign in the game

Now; is any of this not true?
Can I connect more than one wheel to my system?
Does it work that way; can I assign whatever button I click in the game from whatever controller?

And the main question; how do I make sure the game takes its rotation from the G27 and not "see" the turning of the SRW when I try to assign?
Ehm, get my drift?

I'm not going to work with a quick release; its getting expensive than and I might get killed by the wife
So just an adapter, making this myself and put it instead of the G27 wheel, disconnecting the 6 buttons on it. I figure, that won't give me any problems........right? There shouldn't be any "trouble code" getting into the wheel?

This was all I wanted to ask as I didn't get that clear from the internet.
Thanks guys!

 

That's actually a good one; save it as is and only assign the new buttons!
And most of all; save a copy, hehe.

I can do that

Thanks mate, awesome info!

 

Well, the wheel came in today

First thing that crossed my mind was: "is this a joke??"
All I found on the internet was that this thing was very well and decent build and in comparison shots; it was almost just as wide as the G27 wheel.
Imagine that I got a very plasticy toy thing that is way to smal for my hands and doesn't work...... Its also more than an inch smaller, maybe even two inches.

Glad I didn't buy the thing here in the Netherlands for 130 euro; 43 is was and I can spare that.
It does open up possibilities; as the electronics don't work, I just get them disconnected, run the wire from the 2x3 buttons from the G27 through and connect them to 2x3 buttons on the SRW print.

I opened the thing up, saw waterdamamge on the entire print........hmmm.......took the paddles out and flattened the bottom part.
Now I'm a bit afraid that just screwing the thing to the base, will eventually break the plastic of the SRW so I thought of another thing, now possible.

I'm making 3 plates from 1,5 or 2 mm thick iron. One goes in the wheel itself, under the print plate. The other, with the centering holes cut out, comes to the back.
The third, has the 6 holes cut out to get on the base.
All three of the plates, get the same 6mm holes in all the far corners. The first plate gets bolds in it pointing away from me and the head welded.
The second, on the outside, gets mounted on those sticking out bolds and won't turn as I welded them.
There are some centering bumps on the back of the wheel, but I drilled out those holes in the second plate so it won't move and there shouldn't be much stress on the plastic as it gets clamped by the two plates also. Of course, the holes for the bolds have to be drilled in the wheel backplate too.

The third plate, goes on the base and I took care that the holes for the bolds from the wheel (long enough to reach that far) are falling outside the circle from the base.
One big hole in the middle of all three plates, make me able to get the wire through.
I can fit the wheel with the two plates directly to the plate on the base and tighten it with 4 nuts that I can just reach.
Because there already were nuts on the outside; there is some room between the plates, but that is okay as the base plate is screwed to the base and those screwed have heads; they should be about 4 mm apart.

I think it should be okay like that. Now hoping it pans out

 

That will end up spending more money to go from one atrocious plastic toy for the masses to another, not sure that is the way to go when you are on a budget.

 

Thats right, but tbh...the 43 Bucks are throwed away...isn`t it?

 

Ow well, I spend the money; I might as well make the best of it. Its without electrics now -besides from the 2x3 buttons- and there shouldn't be anything breaking down.

Early stages now; made the backplate empty to get the metal plate in there and now fiddling with some paper to measure it all out; feels like kinder garden again
Problem is; I have to go to my next door neighbor at work, he will NOT like my drawings He wants it made on a computer.......I can't do that. Maybe its best if he's not there; I've got a key to his classroom and do it myself

Anyway; can't do much right now besides measuring and drawing and thought I'd make some pictures. It's all first stages now, it will be better at the end of the day (I hope).







You can probably see I'm not a professional in drawing technical (or drawing anything for that matter )

 

I can do them drawings for you Wim

 

Thanks for the offer wgeuze, but I have no idea how to get the measurements across.
Problem is, for instance, that I just drew the six holes from the base over from the cap.......so the metal guy can lay the paper down, drill it and done.
I have no real measurements with radius and exact distances.

 

Did some soldering........thought of the fact that the two connectors of the wheel buttons, go into the little print in the wheelbase. However; that gets covered by the plate on the same base.
I need a connector in the middle.
Did I have a same set of buttons for the G27'I could make it pretty easy to use both wheels. Nowhere to be found though. Ow well; going to use this for a while first I think.

Soldering; bit messy but functional:

 

And that from the guy who scolded me for my soldering 'skills'

 

Ehm.....this does work...... (Not in it for the beauty contest, hehe)


BTW; the "big one" on the first picture; that looks like a huge connector, but it is actually 12 mm wide and I soldered 9 wires to it..........I should be a surgeon

 

Done!

Pff.... had a little fight with the connector and made a short circuit; now one of the 6 six buttons doesn't work anymore.
So......if someone has a spare print (the small one, just underneath the wheel) laying around and want to put it to some good use; please let me know

It's all in first stage now; just see/feel how it drives and then some more work; bolds are to long, paddles need to come closer, bottom selectors have to be fitted, plates have to be painted black.......
Anyway, drove it and apart from the paddles that are to far out and to much back; it drives fine.
Fun thing is; with the 3 plates from 2mm thick metal; the weight is the same as the stock wheel.
As the whole plastic back of the wheel gets clamped in (1 of the 3 plates is inside the wheel) it feels pretty solid and very alike the old one.

Of course some pictures:



So; this was a good day! Got the wheel working (minus one button) and it feels good. Also just as I write this; I got the invitation to scrutineer the DTM when they are here at the Zandvoort track! Love it!