Online Brake Lockup Cure Needed

S

SteveMack

Registered
Hi,
Doesn't really matter what car but what happens is I will practice
for an online race offline and will get my setup done.
Problem is I am not locking any brakes up offline, but when going
online to race I am locking a rear tire, I also see other cars locking
a rear tire during the same race. If you race online you will know
what I am seeing, moving the bias does not help. It is a real pain in the butt
to have a good setup going and all of a sudden you have this brake problem.
Any fix for this?
Thanks for any help!
Steve
 
We have to ask the most basic questions first. Are you, offline, using any of the aids like Stability Control or Brake help? (the aids controlled by the F keys at the top of the keyboard) IF so, you may be joining a server that has not allowed those aids.
 
davehenrie said:
We have to ask the most basic questions first. Are you, offline, using any of the aids like Stability Control or Brake help? (the aids controlled by the F keys at the top of the keyboard) IF so, you may be joining a server that has not allowed those aids.
Click to expand...
I don't use any aids, these are also the daily races in rfactor2.
 
It can also be a green or progressive track rubbering, having less grip at start and lock happens more often.
On first laps there is also the tyre temperature that induces less grip on first laps.

What type of pedals you have ? Brand ? Load cell ?

There is an issue on some Fanatec's pedals, the max brake force (BRF) can reset.
I use 60 % and sometimes it resets to 50 % and i can also lock more frequently if i don't correct the brake force parameter.
 
DanRZ said:
It can also be a green or progressive track rubbering, having less grip at start and lock happens more often.
On first laps there is also the tyre temperature that induces less grip on first laps.

What type of pedals you have ? Brand ? Load cell ?

There is an issue on some Fanatec's pedals, the max brake force (BRF) can reset.
I use 60 % and sometimes it resets to 50 % and i can also lock more frequently if i don't correct the brake force parameter.
Click to expand...
The last one I ran at Imola was progressing but it locked up the whole race, it's just the right rear tire and I see other cars doing the same thing. I have logitech g923, if I lower the pressure I am not stopping, I did try that already. Also it leaves like a 25 to 50 foot skid mark and smoke.
 
DanRZ said:
It can also be a green or progressive track rubbering, having less grip at start and lock happens more often.
On first laps there is also the tyre temperature that induces less grip on first laps.

What type of pedals you have ? Brand ? Load cell ?

There is an issue on some Fanatec's pedals, the max brake force (BRF) can reset.
I use 60 % and sometimes it resets to 50 % and i can also lock more frequently if i don't correct the brake force parameter.
Click to expand...
I tried racing at Imola again offline and I was getting lock up again on either both fronts or both rears with
the C7 and C8 GTE vettes and the Astin Martin GTE, I tried lowering the pressure down their lowest and tried driving and I was able to gradually get up to around 76% pressure and I was able to keep them from locking up
bad, I will get a chirp here and there if I go just a tad too hard on the brakes, I wasn't setting the pressure lower than 85% most of the time, I think I just have to get used to the lower pressure, I am already doing pretty good
with it, I am going to go online again probably tomorrow and see what happens, I did also adjust bias.
 
1) One other small thing to note is that as your tyres "come in" the total retardation increases so weight shift fwds does too. So a brake bias that is perfect on cold tyres will lock up the rears on warm tyres and vice versa.
2) One very fast driver I knew had a golden rule of lowering brake pressure during warmup to the point where he knew he could smash the pedal fully with no fear of a lockup.
3) Aero: While not in the league of F1 cars the GTEs have a bit of downforce. So maybe slightly regressing your braking efforts as speeds drop.
4) Brake fade and temperature induced bias change: Running on your own off-line your brakes may be getting more cooling. If you have the fronts under cooled and the discs get too hot they will become less effective. This will then mean the rears are doing more than their share and can be prone to locking up. So check front discs aren't getting too hot.
EDIT: Final thought is realroad difference. If your practice session has more rubber braking will lock up less.
 
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