This is my first Fanatec wheel so can someone tell me the proper order to install these new drivers and firmware? I think the order goes like this: 1. Uninstall old drivers. 2. Install new drivers. 3. Update firmware. Is that the correct order? Thanks
In the Folder of the Updater are detailed Intructions. As far as i see, Firmware first or Drivers doesnt matter. Ive updated the Firmware first, while Driver 116 was installed and it worked for me on GT3RS V2.
Thanks. I think I'll wait until these are out of beta. People are reporting fan speed problems and a "pause bug".
Yes, there is a Problem showing the Firmware Version in the Display and toggling the Fan Mode (always on <> Temp controlled). But i´ve just opened my Wheel Base and found the Fans working like they should. The small Exhaust Fan is always on and the bigger one at the Motor starts when it gets warm inside the Wheel Base. Besides that i found the bigger Fan did not start while the Wheel Base was open. I think - when Base open - the Heat goes anywhere but not to the Temp Sensor of the Fan. No Problems in rF2 so far, i´ve tried no other Games. That´s true for my GT3RS V2, i can´t say anything about the other Wheels......... But sure you are right with your Decision, Beta is for People who like to experiment, are willing to take some risk and invest their time hunting Bugs, not everybodys Case....... Greets digi
Thanks for your findings. I have the same wheel. Normally I don't mind trying betas, but this is my first Fanatec wheel and it's brand new!
For me the fan always stays on. I liked to have it off and only turn on when it got hot. I can't change it back to the way it was before the update. Are you finding the FFB with rF2 to be different now? For me the FFB is less sharp and I had to turn up the multiplyer in game. Has anybody from ISI tried this new drivers? I'd like to hear their thoughts. gt3 rs v2 user here.
Hi, like i wrote above, there are two fans in the GT3. One always on and the other temp controlled. This is not a big Problem for me. After a few minutes of gaming they are on anyway. Dont know if this is on purpose or a Bug. And yes it feels different. Also note that Drift Mode is set to 3 by default. By default the steering feels very light around the Center Position. This can be improved by raising the SPR setting to 3 or 4 and/or increasing the FFB Multiplier. Today Thomas posted a new Version of the driver (126) but my first impression is that it is worse than 125. Maybe the new driver solves some bugs people have, but somehow it gives me less feeling for the road, grip etc. in rF2. But didnt much testing......... digi
I'm using the 126 currently and I don't like it much. How can I go back to 125? Do I have to uninstall and re install 125?
Thanks mate. Enjoy a Becks on me. I changed back to 115. I'll wait for final version. Auto detect steering ratio actually worked in game but it went away. lol. Edit. Beware! This BETA firmware flashes your wheel and you CANNOT go back to old settings. I went back to driver 115 but it still feels like driver 125/126. I feel like throwing this wheel out the window at the moment.
I´ve enjoyed a Erdinger Weissbier And there´s no need to be worried, you can always go back to the previous Firmware version. Thomas has posted Links in his Blog (Update 3). GT3RSV2 681 in your case............ http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/8543 Greets digi
I have updated my wheel yesterday and after trying it with rF2 I had to rise my FFB level both on wheel and ingame! I'm actually using 90% on wheel and multiplier 2.2 ingame! The feeling is great! Cheers, Oli
Just for clarity's sake: I'm not sure if this is 100% consistent on all Fanatec wheels and all firmware and driver versions, but at least on the CSR-E with 717 firmware and the GT2 with the latest firmware available at that time setting the wheel force to anything other than 100% doesn't adjust the maximum power "correctly" like it does in other wheels, meaning setting the maximum force to the desired value and scaling the other forces to match linearity. Instead it just keeps all forces as they are but limits the maximum force to 90%, so instead of a linear response you get the same response as with 100% forces up until 90% and everything after that is clipped. So yeah, setting the wheel power to anything other than 100% on Fanatec wheels seems to be a big no-no, you're just forcing clipping. Wheel always at 100%, adjust FFB only from the game.
I will set the wheel force on 100% and then adjust the ingame multiplier! I didn't know about that clipping effect on some Fanatec products! Thanks jubuttib, Oli
Can someone explain me what is the ACL option and how should the wheel be set to get the best of it (drift, spring, damper, abs...)! Thanks in advance, Oli
Hi, ACL = Autoclutch. To use it you have to assign the A-Button (lower left on the right Wheel Spoke on your GT3) to the Clutch function ingame. With ACL on, whenever you shift up or down via Shifter Paddles, the clutch gets automaticaly pressed and released. It´s like a small script in the Wheel. The autoclutch function in game has to be turned of of course! It works in rF2 but it´s slower than the autoclutch ingame. Fanatec invented it mainly for Games like Forza on consoles, where you can gain a little (or big) advantage with that function. digi
