Could any of the gurus tell us what this line (from Controller.ini) does? Steering resistance type="1" // 0=use damping, 1=use friction Or these?: Steering resistance coefficient="0.10000" // Coefficient to use for steering resistance. Range: -1.0 to 1.0 Steering resistance saturation="0.10000" // Saturation value to use for steering resistance. Range: 0 - 1.0 Steering spring coefficient="0.00000" // Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0) Steering spring saturation="0.10000" // Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0) Damping is the default. Spinelli got me thinking that perhaps my impression that every ISI vehicle was a bit "light" or "loose" in the rear end (but otherwise seemingly accurate) might be a FFB issue instead of a car modelling issue. Perhaps the less weighty feel of rF2 FFB (e.g., as compared to AC) was tricking me into thinking the rear ends are too loose. In other words, if I felt more weight shifting, earlier, I'd simply correct for the issue and carry on thinking the car was perfect. Perhaps the FFB feel is influencing my sense of the physics and handling? Well, I'd love to experiment...but how? Are there any settings that change the feel of the FFB? With RealFeel and Leo's FFB in rF1, you could custom tweak to your heart's content. I'd love to add some "weight" (make vehicle weight transfer a more significant factor than present) to the FFB to test my theory, but is it possible?
Marc, if you have paper and a pencil (for taking notes), just haul off and change them figures. Maybe increase or decrease by half and see.
These settings seem to be a multiplier related to the Spring and Damper settings in the wheel profiler. If you set 0 Spring/Damper in the profiler the settings don't appear to have any effect. If you set 100% they do. Try setting the resistance coefficient to 0.5-0.9 and play with the damper setting in your profiler. Using the 'FFB reset' button in game might help apply the settings if you tabbed out and there seems to be no change. Based on limited observations/testing with a G25.
You should not need to touch any of these settings at all. By the sounds of what your describing, it is caused by an ffb deadzone that is inherent of all ffb wheels (with the exception of the those such as bodnar wheel most likely). The issue is that the first few percentage of forces from the ffb are not felt at the wheel because of internal mechanical resistence of the wheel. This causes an initial deadzone region of FFB which translates as feeling "loose" and "light" at the wheel in many situations ingame. Here is an (old picture) example of my t500 ffb output (y-axis) and the ffb signal sent to the wheel (x-axis). Notice how there's an initial region (along the x-axis) where there is no force output at the wheel (y-axis). The trick required is to offset the deadzone region so that the new curve (the blue line in graph below) looks like this and we no longer have that "loose" feeling of ffb ever again. The way to reduce this in the past was by increasing the ingame ffb multiplier (but this is bad as it causes ffb clipping issues which means you trade one demon for another that's even worse). rFactor 2 has implemented a solution to this problem only a few builds ago but it is hidden away in the controller.ini file (though i hope it will migrate to the ingame settings UI in the future). The line your are looking for is "steering torque minimum". Now if you don't have a t500 i cannot tell you what value to use but i can explain what you are looking for. Start with a value of "0.04" (= 4% initial deadzone) and go in game and jump into a car and go on track. When your stationary, see if your wheel is oscillating or vibrating. If it is, then you need to reduce the value and try again. If it's not, you need to increase the value till you find the value that induces oscillation/vibration when stationary. When you find this value for your wheel, reduce it a tiny bit so as to avoid the oscillation/vibrations. You should now have zero "loose"-ness of the wheel. I've been using this now for a few days and i've been refining it ever since and now it feels like a perfect wheel (bar getting a bodnar wheel ofc). No looseness, no lightness, immediate responsiveness of the ffb which means i understand what the car is doing at all times. It feels absolutely awesome now.
Thanks for trying to help, but I do not have any looseness in my wheel. I was referring to an oversteer (loose as Americans call it) situation in the handling of the cars in-game. AC has much "heavier" feeling FFB and I was just wondering if rF2 had any option to change the characteristics/feel itself of the FFB, not the strength. My Fanatec wheel has no deadzone and responds extremely well at all default settings. But I know with rF1 RealFeel and Leo's FFB you can completely transform the "feeling" of the FFB. It's the same physics, the same handling and the same wheel at the same force level but the mixture between forces coming from the front wheels only vs. other fores can be altered and it transforms what the car feels like to the sim racer/end user. AC, to me anyway, feels like I am feeling all four wheels equally through the wheel. rF2 feels like about 90% front wheels and 10% for the rear wheels. It's a hard thing to describe until you have felt it yourself. GSC uses the RealFeel system and most people seem to think it is the best implementation of rF1 FFB and physics. Maybe some day we will have adjustments to rF2? Sounds like the ones we have do not adjust this sort of thing, only the strength of the existing balance of forces. In other words, is the "too much oversteering" I am feeling a product of the modelling of the cars, or just the way I perceive the current implementation of the FFB and I will need to more/hyper sensitive to it to get things balanced in my head/hands? I'd like to be able to adjust the FFB to test whether it cures the issue (because it will better trick my senses), or, it may reinforce that there is a modelling issue.
Ah, sorry for misunderstanding. I think that question could only be answered by a developer really. What your asking is if the physics translated into the ffb feeling is realistic compared to the other sims. It may require a real world driver who has driven an ISI car (with the same set) to make that judgement if it is accurate or not. The only one i know of who made such a statement that attempts to answer your question was by F2 2012 champion Luciano Bacheta
Well, if I really think about it, I would say that the issue is more pronounced with the older/not as recently updated cars. So it may just be the physics and tire model. iRacing didn't feel properly balanced to me until their tire model v5, which took about 5 or 6 years to evolve!
Well, you'll have to be more specific on the cars your refering to because the F2 was first released in september 2012 (the same year rf2 beta released) and later updated in july 2013. All other cars were updated within 2 months of the F2's update if not updated/released towards the end of the year. http://rfactor.net/web/rf2/rf2dl/ It's perfectly fine to question if you have doubt (and even if there is non) but i ask myself what are the chances of it being wrong when you look at ISI's history of caliber in the realm of professional motorsport simulation. That and the fact that base simulations now use rfactor 2 (if i'm not mistaken). Please don't see this as me trying to shoot you down...i'm interested in however the facts turn out but so far there is very little concrete evidence available to answer your proposed question, only a series of assumptions that one can make.
Forgot to mention, your fanatec wheel will have some deadzone but may not be apparent to you. I had a csr elite wheel which had quite a lot and the motors used in those are the same as the CSW and older fantec wheels. I have a tool you can use to test/confirm this for yourself if you'd like? Would be interesting to know how much deadzone there is on your wheel too.
I personally prefer the feel of the friction setting. I also enable the settings, brake, clutch, and gearbox effect the steering axis. Just make a copy of controller.ini before you start playing so you can always go back. With my fanatec I run fanaleds, set 1% deadzone on the steering axis in game, and set the minimum steering torque to 0.08. Also exaggerated yaw should be 0. Most cars I set the ffb level to 0.75.
I have a logitech DFP, so, not the best wheel around, and not even the strongest, a decent wheel. I too felt this lightness in the wheel disturbing the feeling of the car. The last updates introduced this "steering minimum torque" , being my wheel not so strong, I use it a 0.1 (10%) , and it's a game changer! Suddenly the car feel alive in all the steering angles, control, feel, all is improved... and it's even more fun! Try this!
Hey Murtaya--do you know what the difference is between friction and damping, I mean some sort of official or technical explanation? I tried friction, but there was very little difference if any. I have to do some more tests to see if it's placebo effect or a real difference that I can identify. I'd love to know what you notice as being different between the two.
Originally I felt that friction gave me better feel of traction, especially with the F2. It could easily be placebo, but i seem to be more consistent with friction. What wheel do you have Marc? I found my gt3 rs v2 to be too strong, which is why I change the overall ffb strength for each car to 0.8. Above this you get clipping, and driving one handed even on a straight can be tricky. The fanaleds plugin is much better than the native fanatec support, totally different feel, do you use it? Also you should use the new minimum steering torque setting, it is to give you superior feel even in the deadzone. It's a game changer especially for slow tight cornering.
I am also using a Fanatec GT3 RS V2 wheel with fanaleds plugin and my settings are: On Wheel: FFB 100% SEN OFF SHO 100% DRI OFF ABS 100%/OFF (tweaking around with fanaleds and ingame settings but not happy) LIN 0 dEA 0 SPR OFF DPR OFF Controller.ini Steering resistance type="1" // 0=use damping, 1=use friction Steering torque minimum="0.05000" (still experimenting) Ingame: ffb multiplier 0.65 (get clipping sometimes on big bumps and curbs / everything else is just fine with settings above i get clipping in fast corners) ffb smoothing 0 driver settings: wheel angle 900° dampening strength 0%
I thought Fanaleds just dealt with the LED lights and standard settings? It affects the feel of the FFB??? And for those who are wondering, yes the new Steering torque minimum setting is worth playing around with. Definitely very noticeable differences.
Fanaleds is an alternative plugin and customiser for fanatec (and other) hardware. It lets you get the best out of your wheel/pedals, some features like the tactile feedback on the brake pedal of clubsports don't work at all without it, if you have a fanatec anything and don't use it you are missing out. Yes the plugin changes the feel, no shaking of wheel when stationary, etc
