I've done a few searches, and come up with nothing. I understand that these types of settings are subjective to each user, but I'm not enjoying the 3D surround experience as of yet. Remapping the D and C controls to the cursors helps with adjustments a lot, but something's just not right. The "depth" seems to be easiest on the eyes at default "0?", but there's not really any true depth to it. Not enough to be worth it. If I add depth, the further I go, the more strain there is on my eyes. With the convergence setting, I assume you use near field objects to adjust right? The dash, gauges etc..? Is there something I'm missing to get a comfortable view with depth (perhaps 3 or 5 green blocks)? It seems either way I get massive out of focus ghosting on the trees or the in-car objects? Are some tracks perhaps better for 3D than others?
The more depth, he harder it first feels on the eyes. Thats why it's always recommended to start at really low 3d depth and slowly as your eyes/brain gets used to it, increase it slowly more and more. Just the way 3d works.
From what I can remember I have my depth almost maxed out about 3 clicks from the end and then adjust the other one to stop eye strain and it looks good Try on the 1960 cars
I recommend read this: http://forum.iz3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=3267 Everything depends from space beetween yours eyes, size of screen, distance from screen, personal characterystics and so on.
My suggestion is a low FOV that makes the opponents bigger - use 35 on my 40 TV and no steering wheel in game and I use the RealHeadMotion plugin to settle down the vibrations and have my view tilted upwards 5-8 degr- I just crank up the depth to 100% and then adjust the convergence to match my windshield on the TV (monitor) screen = check WITHOUT 3D glasses that the 2 3D images match at that one spot i.e. the center top of the windscreen of the Classic cars, so this is the 0 depth layer - so everything before the windshield comes out of the TV/monitor and that`s why I put my seat as much forward as possible (needed mor freedom in seatmovement in most cars) - and everything behind the windshield goes into the screen - looks so good with the classic cars where you see the long "hood"/bonnet and the tyres or in C6 where I set the 0 depth at the wipers and you see the huge/long hood or in the Lola where the side mirror sticks out of my TV just 15 cm and is in my room. View attachment 7412
Assign some keys so you can adjust the convergence setting I like the dash to be at neautral (no double image if you look without the glasses) If your new to 3d your eyes really do get use to it,I run with the depth at around 65% Good luck
This is great stuff guys! Thanks for the replies. Still haven't managed to get comfortable with any settings after adding any depth. Should one not be able to look out the window of my house at distant objects, focus on them, look back into the game and have distant objects in focus? Or is that incorrect? What do you all do about the severe ghosting in the distant objects? Trees especially. Ignore it? If it matters I sit 20" away from 3x24" monitors. Fov usually around 32.
I setup stereoscopic 3D like this (55" 3DTV , ~2m distance): 1) I calculate correct FOV (in my case ~25°). For tracks I know in real live I set FOV near to the correct calculated FOV=25°. For tracks I don't know I set FOV to 30°. I can't race tracks I know IRL with wrong FOV because they look wrong in stereoscopic 3D. 2) I meassure my IPD (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inter-pupillary_distance). My IPD=6.3cm. Adjust Separation (Ctrl+F3/F4 in 3D Vision) so that the farthest objects are <6.3 cm seperated on screen. (But near 6.3 cm for best results) 3) Setting up convergence is more difficult and depends on the car: For openwheelers I choose cockpit view. With seat adjustment and convergence (Ctrl+F5/F6 in 3D Vision) I try that the road is about the same depth than my floor (depends on the car too) and i dont get ugly pop-outs at the edge of the screen. For tintops I choose nose or bonnet view, I can't get them to look right in stereoscopic 3D and cockpit view. I don't get ghosting with my passive 3DTV, so nothing to do. If you setup separation = your IPD for distant objects, you get the same separation=depth like you get on distant objects when looking out of the window.
