I think these are really bad for the game as in general they cause more problems for players than they solve. Also why is spring saturation sometimes set to 10% on certain profiles? This does nothing other than ruin the FFB. What we need is a proper setup wizard like in iracing. I know they tried to implement this before but it was not a success. Setting like ffb wheel steering torque nm: needs to be defined by the player. And is it nominal or peak? These oversights are making it difficult for new players to set up their controllers. We also still have to turn down the FFB multiplier for most official content to 60%..?? Why? Like surely that is easy to set correctly? The HDV FFB nominal should be somewhere between constant and peak forces. S397's current trend is to set it lower than the constant force. Steering help ? Why just what is it even for ? One sure way to completely put a newcomer off the game if they have this on by accident. We need a setup wizard - not because it's hard to set up for the familiar players, but because the current process makes it more likely that a new player will end up with very poor settings and RF2's incredible physics are not experienced. I have talked to a lot of people who are into sim racing who simply say they 'tried Rf2 but it felt weird'. I then either set RF2 up for them or let them have a go on my rig, and they are blown away because they can't believe how much better the FFb is compared to any other title. Sorry for the rant but I just feel like a lot of people are put off by the weird and quirky controller setup process, and I think it is detrimental to getting new players.
I had no difficult to set up my SC 2 pro, and I use 30% in most of the cars, only caterham at 90% and SRXX at 70%. I prefer they take time to fix the bugs.
You shouldn't have to change the multiplier with a Simucube wheel if the controller nm and the hdv nm is set correctly.
Rf2 and iracing directy output steering shaft torque as nm so that a 1:1 representation can be made between the steering shaft and the ffb motor shaft. You can still change the multiplier if you want and give yourself pretend power steering (race car power steering would probably be adjustable anyway) I'm saying that the default nominal (nomalisation threshold) for the steering torque should be set so that adjustment is generally not necessary. Instead of always being necessary as it is currenty on official content.
what is annoying for me is I reduce for my taste the FFB for a car, and if I change the liverie, I have to reduce again. About iRacing, I didnt like so much the FFB, I have passed this game long time ago
Iracing ffb sucks I completely agree and I think it is so boring to drive. But they do have a brilliant controller setup wizard. The livery is a bit of a problem yes. But what I am saying is that if the car ffb nominal was defined correctly, and you steering wheel nm was defined correctly, you would rarely want or need to change the ffb multipler as it would be a direct representation of the real car. A vehicle dynamist doesn't want the steering to be heavy or unpleasant and wants the real cars steering feedback to be communicative and not so strong so that the driver has to fight the wheel. I don't know how else to explain this but it is a confusing topic for people and the FFb nominal feature is rarely understood. I'm not sure if s397 are making the most of this very powerful feature.
Leave your car specific multiplier at 100% and set your FFB strength to 30% (-30% for the SC2 Pro). Then you don't have to change it for each car or livery. Then set car specific multiplier to 300% for the Catarham to get 90% effective FFB for that car and 233% for the SRXX.
What's quirky about it? I think it's really easy to setup FFB on rF2, setting up the gain is almost everything that there is. Why do some people change FFB gain per car? Because of their tastes. Some want the FFB to be strong but not too strong, but a little stronger with that car, not so much on that other one. They don't want their super powerful wheel to snap their fingers but they also want that bland car to feel more powerful. We want realism except when realism doesn't fit what we like.
The defaults are good for cheap wheels most newcomers will probably be using. Experienced people with good wheels coming from iRacing will be confused about why they should adjust things, and welcome to rF2 I guess. It's hardly the only thing you need to be aware of. The experience needs to be simpler, the settings clearer, and that'll do 80% of it (got a typical consumer wheel? Here's lots of clipping by default, and here's an option to reduce the strength and get more detail. Got a strong wheel? We're now defaulting to low-clipping mode. Hey look, we have a global multiplier now! This is easy!). There should be guidelines for car makers, and probably a way to limit the peak forces too. I've considered trying to do it in the suspension itself but never tested it.
