Guide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" :D

Depends on your ffb wheel to be honest. Even with my t500, i allow a tiny bit of ffb clipping when the low end forces are generally weaker in some cars than others. A small compromise if required. Otherwise, i make sure the ffb almost never clips under normal race conditions (ignoring driving over kerbs that always cause momentary clipping but irrelevant).

 

I can sympathize with your frustration, I've got DFGT. However, what you have is what you have. Adjust to the best you can and it works.
Try this.
In profiler set max ffb output to 98%, everything else to zero.
Then in STM set 0.025. Try it for a while, in game you can mostly run multiplier at 1.00. Modern open wheelers will feel a little light on the straights (but that is a common complaint and you can get used to it). You should have no problem feeling loss of grip etc. In GSC profiler settings are the same and in game I run ffb at -80.

Most wheels, even sub-par can be adjusted to give acceptable ffb output. If you can't afford multiple hundreds of dollars for wheel, don't throw in the towel, work with it.
I swear rF2 does not have the most crap FFB in existence, its better than GSC (I do use GCS Extreme and I like its cars and definitely prefer it over rF1)

 

How can I reduce the amount of FFB that is coming from the road?

 

After playing with the various tips and tricks in this topic, I feel I have hit the sweet spot (or pretty darn close to it anyway!) . I have a Logitech DFGT, profiler set up just like the picture in the opening post, the "Torque minimum" is currently set at "0.04" witch feels fine, in-game smoothing at "0" (although I put it up to "4" when I go and race because flat spots make it rattle like a snake) and the "FFB Multiplier" is generally between "0.75" and "0.85".

Just want to give a quick shout out to everyone who tried and tested these tips & tricks, it's very much appreciated indeed

 

thanks for the extended tips.. One thing that annoys me is when I hit a rumble strip its like the wheel is gonna rattle off the table!! Its horrendous. The FFb needs to be smoothed out much more. All depends on what car and author.. Isi cars have weak to average FFB, Makcorp has good ffb and URD have weak ffb imo..

 

Depends on the wheel. I had a lot of rattle with my G25, but with my Fanatec CSW no rattle with no smoothing at all.

 

suppose your right.. I got the DFGT cheap from argos once at 70£ I was new to sim racing .... seemed expensive for a wheel then lol

cant a realfeel plugin be done for RF2?

 

Oh dear.

 

To make it feel more like a ten year old sim? I sure hope not. Compared to the ffb of rF2 I hate the feeling of that plugin.

Sendt fra min LG-E400 med Tapatalk2

 

but that 10 year old sim feels better?!

 

The smoothing can be increased in the Settings menu

So you are talking about FFB strength. All the Makcorp cars I have tried have had way overpowered FFB , they need to be run with less than half normal strength to avoid clipping almost all the way round the track.

In the Sim , if 0 is driving in a straight line and 10 is a high G, flatout corner in a high downforce car... with our hardware, 1, 2 and 3 are going to feel quite weak. If you try and make 1 and 2 stronger your wheel will max out at maybe 6 or 7. You lose all the info from 8, 9 and 10.

If your wheel could produce 5Nm of torque, every number from 0-10 is an increase of 0.5 Nm. A very subtle difference which takes a light touch to be able to feel.

If you want to be able to mimic the forces of a real car, with no power steering, you might need 10 times that max torque. With that range it is quite easy to feel the change in 'weight' in the wheel while driving. The difference between 0 and 1 is 5 Nm.

You don't need wheel strength to drive a car well, you need fidelity. An accurate representation of a wide range of forces. With the hardware most of us use the FFB ends up feeling 'weak' cos our wheels are 'weak', not to mention FFB deadzones etc. due to their basic design.

 

to be fair ive just upped my smoothing to about 9 and it generally feels better (FRenault). I like the wheel to feel quite weighty without the loose toy wheel feeling..

at multi at 1.0 and running the pedal plugin, my wheel rarely reds out, unless hitting wally or going over kerbs

 

Of course it doesn't. It's 10 years old, that's what it is.
It feels at least ten years old. Lack of detail, lack of everything compared to this.

A wee bit of progress has been made to the ffb since then.
rF2's ffb shouldn't be diluted, imo.
Don't know why you'd want to go backwards like that.

 

Err, no.

 

What settings do you use in the Logitech profiler? As far as I am aware the pedal overlay only shows the in game signals sent to the FFB wheel. If your profiler is set too high it will clip but the plugin won't show it.

 

DrR1pper,i have translate in french ant posted in forum RFR

 

DrR1pper,i have translate in french ant posted in forum RFR: http://www.racingfr.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48159&pid=1500658&st=0&#entry1500658 .

In case of problems,I delete

 

oh, nice! No problem at all.

 

Thank you !

 

First of all I want to thank DrR1pper for this great advice; it really improved the feel of my Microsoft Sidewinder FF wheel (even though it's very old).

However I have another issue with the wheel, and was wondering if anybody knows a solution (or at least the cause). When steering, the FFB on the first 40 degrees that I turn the wheel are fine/great (note: no FFb dead zone). But when I rapidly steer the wheel more than +/-40 degrees (in either direction), I suddenly hit a lot of FFB-resistance and have to us a lot more force to overcome this FFB resistance. I noticed that this only happens when I turn the wheel fast (like in moments of oversteer). As you can imagine, I am never able to catch oversteer because of this. To be clear, this difference in resistance is not in a static position, but moves along with the wheel, while I’m driving. So every time I move the wheel more than 40 degrees in a fast motion, I hit heavy resistance.

Does anybody have an Idea what causes this? I've been playing around with 'Steering resistance coefficient' and 'Steering spring coefficient' in the controller file, but it doesn't seem to do much.

When I use the WheelCheck.exe program, I can reproduce roughly the same feeling when I select 'Spring force': "simple spring". But like I said, I haven’t found the responsible settings yet.