racing in GT CUP in UK this year, need help re racing simulator to purchase and set u

I don't understand how you need more torque than what I get through my fanatec gt3 rsv2, it is seriously tiring, after 2 hours of driving my shoulders are burning. It doesn't really matter what else the motors are used in if they are strong enough. I actually turn the overall feedback down on a few cars, it is too strong, running over a kerb can yank the wheel enough to lose you time. Don't know if the motors are any different in my model compared to the newer fanatec wheels though. I think they could have geared my wheel to actually give a bit less torque and some more speed if anything.

Also that motion sim cannot simulate loss of rear traction like the sim x type of motion sim, is it really best? Unless you have tried both it would be speculation, but I would speculate that the 3rd axis is probably worth having. Then again modifying that motion rig in the video to give accurate driving positions for all vehicles would be easy, which is going to actually be more of a concern when wearing an occulus rift although I try to adjust my seat, wheel and pedals now to represent an accurate driving position for the car I'm in as it does aid immersion (for me anyway)

If only there was a store with all the rigs, all the wheels, all the pedals, and all the screen options setup to try. It's so rare to try expensive hardware side by side it's difficult to get anything except personal opinion, which is nearly always influenced by purchase justification. Apart from brand of gfx card and software there aren't any easy choices in simming.

 

+1
No dampening or smoothing and my FFB Mult. is set anywhere from 0.45 to 0.65 depending on the car. I just need to feel it, I don't want to be controlled by it.

Anyway, sorry for off topic.

 

I change the ffb type to friction from damping, and also enable effects from the engine gearbox and brake on the steering axis in the ini file. It probably makes me slower but I like the feeling. This is all way OT though. I guess if your budget is unlimited your choices become easier.

 

racing in GT CUP in UK this year, need help re racing simulator to purchase and set up

If you're in the UK, check with http://joyridesimulators.com/

 

For tracks I'd suggest looking at GTR 2 for your base game. It is a finer game than rFactor and has just about as many tracks.

 

Until you use a servo driven wheel..

Big differences are very high dynamic range/ceiling*, constant torque delivery**, smooth as butter when needed. There is just no comparing really,
the Fanatec mis-used slogan 'Goodbye toys, hello realism' applies in full here, and not in favor of any regular consumer wheel ..

*
This results in a much higher contrast between forces. The difference in feel between road noise, rumble strips, stepped kerbs, undulations in the road. With most consumer wheels
all the more subtle details are completely drowned out in larger type forces because the range is so limited and that usually seems to result in overall too high force feedback
settings cause you're desperately trying to get some feel going on.. GTR2 did a great job at least of offering a way to counter this, by having FFB settings per surface but it still
is limited to hardware.

**
- Suzuka 130r
- Last turn of Portimao
= are so awesome, you literally have to hang onto the wheel to really pull that car through the turn

I think you can just as well do with a static rig if I look at those really..
Actually after watching a video, it's not all bad I have to admit If you're going to spend money, I think it's
better spent on a good wheel than a 2dof motion system (If I had 5000 pounds to spend that is). Also I think something hugely underestimated is a good set
of pedals, proper ones which can mimic the (especially) brake pedal pressures you have to work with in
the actual car.

 

If you are wanting to have a motion cockpit, build it yourself with a fraction of the cost and probably better than most you can buy for silly money, I plan on making a 2dof platform 1 myself with 2 small motor g-box .

http://www.xsimulator.net/

 

Wgueze, any suggestions on servo based wheels for someone in the uk?

Pip, I liked the versaro as it was reasonably modular from a motion point of view.

So you could buy a base and add later. It also looks rock solid, most rigs look like they flex to some degree, some more than others.

 

Don't have experience with the bodnar one (other brand), but I'd go that way in a heartbeat

 

racing in GT CUP in UK this year, need help re racing simulator to purchase a...

That was my initial thought too, looks amazing for the price!

Shame I never stumbled in there considering the number of times I have been at silverstone.

Including those areas near the old front gate, which is where I presume they are located.

 

Yes you can see the Bodnar is something special without even using it. If I ever have £3k spare (make that 4k by the time you buy a couple of wheels, quick release kits, and modify them with Sli displays) it will be an easy choice.
As far as pedals are concerned I think I would still opt for fanatec clubsports. They aren't perfect (don't invert, pedal plates don't articulate) but they can be made to be, you can adjust the brake for realistic pressure, and I personally like the feedback from the brake pedal, I actually like the motors in the rim of the fanatec wheel as well which is something else that sets them apart from normal priced wheels (and luxury priced wheels!). I'm not a fan of rumble in any controller normally(eccentric motors ought to be reserved for womens toys), but combined with the clubsport pedals rumble it feels quite good under braking, you really know when your wheels are locking up.

 

After reading all this Pip, it all comes down to what you have to spend and what your expectations are going to be as far as realism/accuracy. With an unlimited budget, all things are possible. With a limited budget, then you have to prioritize based on what you are wanting to get out of the rig. If you need the seat of the pants feel, then a motion rig is a must. If you need the tracks to be accurate, then you might be looking at some professional/custom software designed to give the most realistic track/feel. If all you want is a very close proximity to learn the track layouts, then rF1 with mods should work well for your purposes. As far as the computer, get the best you can afford. nVidia seems to give better performance, as does Intel CPU's, so base your choices on those items.

 

Pip - you, don't need a motion system to achieve 99% of what you'll gain from a static rig. The most important thing is learning the track and banging in consistent times. The rest is superfluous. A sim (any sim) is so different to real life anyway the main benefit is track familiarity.

 

There certainly are some pricey pedal sets out there. I have the clubsport v1's. I have tuned and changed them to reduce throw on the brake pedal.

This means they are less throw and position based and basically work on the pressure sensor for 80-90% of the braking action. Giving a sense of pushing against a real brake pedal and subsequent disc.

I guess with the v2's the feel is a little different with the oil and new clutch system, I don't think these are entirely necessary but they are nice additions

Combined with the rumble on the brake pedal. This helps give good pedal feedback. This is very important in a sim rig.

 

Wow, I didn't realise that the T500 was rated so much better for torque. I thought they were both about the same area. Just wish their rims were nicer looking. My G25 seems to look nicer, with leather and metal everywhere XD.

So now it makes it really hard to figure out...I want a T500 wheel, but Clubsport V2 pedals....which would leave me having to pay for the T500 pedals which would not be used...grah.

 

Heck....the T500 is still almost half the price of a CSW and you get a free set of pedals included (even if you don't use them, like myself).

 

If the cars you are driving in real life produce more torque at the wheel than a Leo Bodnar - or even a T500 - get a new mechanic or car. Or stop crashing.

Edit: I used to drive a 1971 Ford XY Fairmont with 265 tires all round. I once got wedged in an underground parking lot, turning inside a thin concrete channel at only about 15kmh - the forces that were exerted back down the wheel almost destroyed my shoulder. Cars were upgraded after that to reduce the forces for a reason.

 

My Opel Corsa without power steering has tons more torque delivery than the G27 I have at home

GP2 cars appear to have quite heavy steering as well

Interesting

 

I would have thought the v2 pedals can be adjusted to exactly the same forces as the V1s datanode, the only difference would be feel of the damping at the end of the brake stroke being damped by oil rather than the sponge dowel. Plus you get the degressive clutch. If they would just make them invert and be modular so that you can change the spacing or completely remove the clutch like their cheaper pedals, reduce the tolerances of the moving parts, and articulate or curve the footplates, they would be close to perfect.

I had a transit with a steering box rather than rack and no power assist obviously, even the bodnar could not simulate the forces required turning that beast at low speed (ie parking) Great van though, rwd could drift it quite easily (as long as the load in the back was secured! haha)


Would be a much better thread if the OP had given a budget and whether they had anything to build from.

Like you have £5000 and want a simulator, how would you split it? Sounds like quite a generous budget but it isn't. This has to cover everything starting from nothing.

 

racing in GT CUP in UK this year, need help re racing simulator to purchase a...

Oh yes of course, I didn't mean anything other than most people with v1's don't necessarily need to upgrade. If you are buying new, you would get v2's for sure.

If there were really cheap sets of v1's on ebay etc, maybe don't write them off.

I think my next purchase of sim hardware will be a level up on that though. Quite a lot of choice in the enthusiast range.

I would be interested in the force at spindle of a t500rs measured.