Recently (guessing the Dec 16 Hotfix) the "FFB Strength" setting in the calibration screen has changed and is interacting correctly with the other settings. This means that, for example: - Veh mult 60% - FFB Strength 100% and - Veh mult 100% - FFB Strength 60% are now equivalent. The FFB strength can therefore be used as a global starting multiplier. If you have a habit of putting each car down to 60, 70, 80%, or editing files to change all cars to that, changing the FFB Strength instead is now a viable alternative (of course, cars that are ok with higher mults, will then need even higher mults to compensate - check your favourite FFB clipping monitoring solution). Apologies to all those I've advised in the last couple of weeks to always put FFB strength on +/- 100%; I didn't think to re-test after an update that didn't mention anything about it. (previously the FFB would be clipped by the vehicle mult, and lowering the FFB strength didn't recover that lost detail; it just weakened the already clipped output. I tested this in late November)
I've been running with reduced FFB strength for some time (working). Again, a per-car ffb setting option (for tuning on the fly) is needed in rF2. It has become a pretty standard feature in most sim's today, one that I use quite often. Having to start / stop sessions multiple times to adjust ffb per car is just so 1980's.
oh that's good, I remember when I use ffb strength lower, massive clipping before, so I had to use car specific one to lower the FFB, if after the hotfix, it won't casuing clipping, then it could finally been used as "general ffb strength" thanks for the infomation
To clarify, I'm not sure it eliminates clipping in every case but, I tend to reduce the per-car ffb as well, just to be safe. Use of a clipping-app certainly can help.
My suggestion would be to test it both ways. In the end, use the one that works best. In my case, the wheel-base offers more than enough strength, so I spread some of the force reduction in both the Global-ffb strength and per-car ffb settings. That way, the per-car ffb works from a reduced baseline strength and requires less adjustment than if I used the full range.
They are now multiplied together before clipping is 'locked in', so they're equally effective. There's no better or worse option. Up to now most S397 cars have had significant clipping on 100% (a good starting point for cheap wheels and new players), so many people automatically put the Mult down to ~75% for each new car. If you forget (with a new car, or even a new skin of the same car) you end up with that extra clipping. Now you can put the FFB strength on 75%, and because it's a global value you don't need to change the Mult for each car anymore. It's still only a starting point though - best to check for clipping occasionally, and would indeed be good if a meter (or a smarter readout) were available in game.
Check both ways for your own system. For mine G920, it worked the same either way. But I left the in-car multiplier at 55, and the other one below at 100. Logitech profiler at 100%
Why would you turn your wheel software down for your G920? You don't have much power anyway and you are just reducing your wheels fidelity! Always run it at 100 but if you cant cope with the strength then always reduce ingame at the car specific FFB multiplier. My wheel has 26nm and always set to 100. I run GT3s at 30-40 and GTEs 25-30 as an example. Pretty sure the GT3s weren't clipping even at 100 multiplier with the old FFB meter before it stopped working.
@Lazza thanks mate good tip i ll put ffb str to 75 (Fanatec csl elite 5NM wheel) and i ll start lowering the gain per car previously i had ffb gain at 60 or lower for most of the cars and never touched ffb str
I didn't mention anything about the "wheel software". Logitech software setting has always been 100%. My game FFB strength is also 100%. And now I usually run the "in-car multiplier" setting around 50 ~ 55%. I get no clipping set this way.
