I think that we are speaking of different things. It doesn't matter, the wheel that you have. I'm speaking about the engine of the car in the sim, not the engine of your steering wheel. If you are accelerating and go to neutral, the engine of the car will reach the maximum revs and can break.
Since you have the same wheel base as I do, let me ask you a question... When your wheel base Is turned off (PC is off too), and your wheel plugged In (the wall outlet/power), do you hear a very faint buzzing sound If you place your ear close enough to the wheel base chasis? Like If a small amount of current was still going Into your wheel base although It´s turned off? I have already asked this over at the TM support site but still no reply yet. My wheel Is new and I am wondering If this behavior Is normal or not. Thanks
Do you leave pier cable plugged in the wheel base? I don’t as I noticed few years ago when I got it that it would draw current as the power supply was warm to the touch might be where your buzzing noise comes from
No I am also taking about blowing up the car engine as I said , with the shape and form of the TS PC wheel I don’t know how that would happen unless you do this intentionally
Accidentily, I would assume, like hitting a curb just at the moment you were clicking one lever and the jolt nudges your hand to the other. I have been using this method for ages, at least 4 or 5 years, and can think of one or two times I've pulled neutral accidentally. When I had a TS-PC, I had 3 power bricks fail....ok, 2, the 3rd failed in a fire... If I didn't follow the prescribed method for updates, for some reason it would fry the brick. (All but the last one replaced under warranty) But I never had issues blowing up engines due to false neutral. Prior to this method, I OFTEN shifted down too far into N or even Reverse one time....the double pull prevents that.
Ok thank you both. I am thinking of plugging the TS-PC to a dedicated power strip with It´s own power button and just turn the strip off when not In use. Yes I have the power cable plugged Into the wheel base, otherwise It would not draw power what so ever unless I have a GP ghost somewhere In my room that likes to mess with my set-up.
4yrs ownership of the wheel with 100% gain set in the drivers since day one Touch wood, not a single issue It’s built like a tank at least for me hope it will last me another year before moving to DD
@nolive721 As @MikeV710 has said, this can happen accidentally. This has happened to me and i've seen in our league that has happened to several guys. Glad to know that in your case is impossible.
Here´s TM´s support answer to the power supply enquiry... Hello Mike, Thank you for your enquiry and for contacting our Thrustmaster technical support. You are describing a low buzzing noise inside the unit when it is connected to your computer USB and to the power outlet. You can hear this noise even when not using the wheelbase. We inform you that it is normal : when the wheel is connected to both the USB and the power outlet, it is then "On", and draws a bit of power, even if you are not actively using it. In such cases, we would advise to disconnect the wheel USB, simply to save energy. We wish you a pleasant day and remain at your disposal for any further information. Best regards, Jessica, your Thrustmaster agent. So you can also unplug the USB, It seems.
That’s not the way I read it They are mentioning when both usb and power cable then wheel is technically ON which is my experience indeed
I am first gonna try with a power strip with a on/off switch because It´s not a good Idea to always have a power transformer plugged In, and If needed, I´ll unplug the USB lead too.
Get used to booting up rF2, clicking race, get to the track....$##$%^^&$##$ forgot to turn on the dang wheel! (don't ask me how I know) At least exiting, and restarting rF2 is much, much faster.
Hi folks, Hope your all doing well, and that this heat Is not effecting you to much. I am starting to actually race against the AI now although I have been off a month from racing. Up until yesterday, I was usually just doing practice laps with AI, but like I said, now I am trying to race against the AI and taking my first steps tweak the AI settings a bit to make my experience more enjoyable. Yesterday while trying to start a direct race (no practice or qualy) on LeMans I had the sim run me through a formation lap, so far, so good. But you all know that a formation lap In LeMans can take awhile so I used the "skip formation" option, which aside from doing some weird car juggling, It put me some meters before the green flag which I guess Is fine. The thing Is that while juggling the cars side to side etc. I did get some bodywork / airframe damage, sometimes to the point that I had to re-start the race. Now I guess this Is just another Issue with rF2, or maybe not, so Is there a way to avoid this? Or not have a rolling start? The other thing I noticed Is that depending on were you set the AI aggression, one will be set back X amount of positions on the starting grid. Not sure If It just had to do with aggression or AI strength because I did tweak both at the same time at one point. So Is this how It works too? Thanks
Forgot to mention... I bought the Oreca 07 yesterday among other cars, and on the LeMans track the spark spray from behind the car Is practically constant no matter what sector, car set-up Is by default by the way. It´s like one of those Estes rockets before launch I know It has to do with how the car Is set-up but for now I am not much of a set-up guru. Hoping to learn soon, as It´s much needed If you want to be proficient, but the problem right now Is that I still don´t know what my driving style Is like, I am still a noob!
For oreca07 at lemans, try increase rear ride height above 9cm (may also need to increase front), as downforce presses down oreca 07 rear ride height significantly at the end of mulsanne straight, especially with soft spring.
Yes, the Oreca runs low. Increase the springs a click or two in addition to raising the ride ht. Check your Vmax BEFORE making the changes and then again after, you will be pleased. Prior to the last update, there was no way other than observation to discover the car was dragging. The lack of sparks and bottom scraping noise meant only those who had Motec or others who checked the difference in Vmax knew what was happening.
Thank you both for your reply and help. I will do so, although I don´t know what Vmax Is, Is that a car set-up setting or value? Thank you.
Sorry, it is shorthand for Velocity Maximum. Essentially what is the absolute top speed you can achieve. With the stock setup, you will probably only reach 318kph.(197.5mph) Once you raise the car and stiffen the springs, you should be able to get to at least 323kph(200.7 mph) before the first chicane at Le Mans. There is an older version of Le Mans, called Le Grand Circuit, which is based upon the 1967 layout. It will feel all wrong at first as many corners are either missing or aligned differently. But the key is the long back straight does not have either of the two chicanes. Using that track, it is easy to check what your Vmax is as you will have plenty of time to watch your speedometer before the slight right hander heading up to the hump. You can drive out of the pit area.(exit is to the left side of the grandstands which separate your parked car from the track) run a partial lap til you complete the back straight(Mulsanne straight is the name) then hit escape, make a few setup changes we mentioned and (save the file first) go back out to run another partial lap.
