Wheel with strong soft wheel and no deadzone

I agree totally with ADSTA.
One of the good things of the DD wheels is that you can lower the strength without loosing the little details.

 

The best advice I can give is to try before you buy a dd wheel if possible.
I’ve tried quite a few and can not justifying the cost,they all left me rather underwhelmed after all the shouting dd owners have done over the years.
They are better than any belt drive wheel out there,I’m not contesting that,all I’m saying is you may not think the costs justify the improvements you get from dd wheels

 

Accuforce wheel completely lives up to its name. FFB is very accurate

 

That one was the best out of the bunch I’ve tried,I like the fact you can add effects,it helps when sims like iracing lack depth in their ffb.
But still the price

 

Hi.

I have a old T500RS and I am very happy. I had g27 before, there are huge differences.

To avoid deadzone and wheel friction, I put 3% in minimum force and it is very good.

With that minimum force setting, I put generally MAXIMUM 0.85 FFB multiplier, and I don't have any clippling (99% of the time).

The pedals T3PA-PRO are very good. Really. I suggest to buy it.

Apparently, like @stonec said and I think he is right, T300RS technologie is more recent. But avoid clipping is strongly important, and with T500RS it is more easy to avoid clipping than with T300, and with a really enough strenghs.

T300rs (I think) or T500RS (I am sure) + T3PA-PRO are very good advices, for a "low" price ("").

 

I have a t500 rs and my pro pedals only lasted 3 months before two pits went, I was so disappointed. Replacements had to come from half a world away. I pulled the pots apart and there is nothing to them. I got some fanatec pedals whilst waiting and still have not fixed the pro's

 

@dadaboomda
I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it but can't G27 deadzone issue be mitigated by setting minimum force to around 16-17% and FFB multi to < 85%?
Someone on Reddit said that increasing minimum force doesn't entirely solve deadzone issue, but I'm not sure why it would not.

 

(I think) if you increase ffb minimum torque, you have to decrease more the ffb multi. A compromise have to be make for the g27 I think. 12.5% is probably too much, 8%-10% is probably better I think. Not sure.

 

Probably you are doing something wrong about soft lock. In windows 7 the vehicle set degrees of rotation always worked perfect for me. When i changed to windows 10, at the beginning isn't working, but i found that i need to be a super user, for some reason, if you are a normal user then rF2 can't set the degrees correctly.

 

@dadaboomda

For G27? I'm pretty sure it should be >=15% to eliminate deadzone. In AC it's best to use LUT generator:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/lut-generator-for-ac.9740/

But I usually just set min force to 16% in both rF2 and AC.

 

Ok.

 

No, soft lock works, rfactor automatically locks it at whatever degrees of rotation for each car, the problem is the soft lock is extremely weak on the g27, you can get past it easily during violent turnings.

 

Then you're replacing deadzone with a 'switch' at centre that pushes the wheel left or right, depending which side of left or right you're currently on. I found with a G27 around 8% was the maximum before I could feel the wheel shudder as the minimum torque shifted sides, I wouldn't want to go any higher than that. You can go higher if you reduce the overall force, but then you're losing real FFB and not gaining anything in the centre.

There seems to be a misunderstanding that minimum torque adds to the FFB. It doesn't. If a car doesn't clip FFB at 100%, minimum torque at 15% won't make it clip. I say leave the Logitech/windows setting at 100%, adjust each car's FFB to minimise clipping in normal driving situations, and leave minimum torque at a level that lets you feel some force at early turn-in without becoming distracting.

@momoracer I said it earlier, but make sure you're driving with minimum 360° in formula cars. 270 isn't realistic and will make it easier to hit the soft lock.

 

WTF, what kind of driver you'are?

Smooth = fast

 

I also said earlier that I play with whatever the mod is recommending for each car, so 360 for most cars, depending if it's a 1980 car, 2013 or whatever, I just said 270 for no reason.

I dont think we are talking about the same thing then.

 

Well I agree with @ebeninca that if you are constantly hitting the soft lock, your driving style is a problem. Basically you should never hit the lock on an F1 car except in the slowest of corners, like Loews at Monaco. If you are hitting it elsewhere, it means your tires are above the optimum angle which produces extra heat and friction, or you have a too low steering lock value in car setup. Most corners with an F1 car shouldn't require more than 120 degrees of wheel angle to maneuver through them.

 

@Lazza

You're talking about wheel oscillations when standing (i.e. in a pit)? Yes I often get that, but when I hold it for a second it usually stops.
On a straight when if I let go of the wheel it also starts oscillating but in general it doesn't bother me much.

That seems way to low min force. Hmm I don't know where I've saw it, but basically found that, you usually don't get any force until 16% of maximum torque on G27. But, now I find rather 10%-15% range is recommended. Damn it! Now I'll have to even more "research" and probably end up using LUT generator for AC, or buying DD wheel, which will be "Final Solution"

 

Well I said is mostly with rally cars or drifting or anything that requires more violent turning.

Also when I invite someone to come over and play, specially older people, they just don't realize there's a limit and get past it because their minds are so ingrained to 900 real life degrees of rotation, it's actually hilarious to see an old person turning 900 degree in an f1. Having a STRONG lock where you can't get past the real life degrees for the wheel of the car you are playing with helps to learn this muscle memory better.

 

Too find the minimum min force that is required to be set the file wheelcheck.exe from Iracing does the job. After running the test a value for your wheel is in the report my G27 was 12%. I have now moved onto a DD Accuforce however and there is just no comparison in either feel (or cost ). The cost just become what I am happy to put into my hobby much like other would spend on a new set of golf clubs.

 

@whitmore
Yeah I used it's log as an input for LUT generator, but just "discovered" there's separate test for min force. I've run it a few times and each time it resulted a little bit in different "maximum value of FFBBaseOffset": 16.5%, 15% and 16%. So I guess I will lower my settings from 16 to 15% in rF2 - this will surely make great difference. For AC I think I will disable min force and start using generated LUT.