UPDATED: leo bodnar simsteering : .Json (controller file) may help OSW users too

Sorry I'm still fiddling with it
I'll try get it up after testing again

 

Yes that's them , apart from the options in the actual controller UI of rfactor2 (& your wheel UI)

 

Okey dokey, thank you Adrian

Me wanna test ur latest version B Leo file too....

 

New 2nd option added to 1st post,

becoming my preference, gives a more direct feel to the wheels , less dampened
but be sure to keep some of the FFB Smoothing to avoid a mechanical feel

trying to tune brakes etc as braking lockups seem to cause a hell of a lot of unmanageable
ffb vibration

 

Hi Adrian,

Since you mentioned brakes. I am still using Danalm setting. While at the same time I am trying to figure out what braking value will cause lock up on ISI's 2013 GTR GT500 un-touched , virgin setting. I am using H-Engineering Pro pedals with load cell sensor. I do not get lock up vibration much, but if I turn ABS HIGH, then I can feel the pulse of the ABS pumping stronger than non-ABS locked up. Since I am still Rfactor2/FFB/IT dummy, I dont know which settting with Danalm JSON file contributed to that, maybe you can take a look.

I used the pedal overlay to see what value is lock up, according to DIView and Pedal-overlay bar, it is about 2200 point in DIview if Pedal-overlay bar hit maximum. My H-E brake pedal max is about 3,200 points.

I am curious seeing AI driving can do 100% braking but no lock up.... I use that DAMplugin with Motec reader thingy to see. I also do not know if AI driver is allowed to use ABS or what....

For now I can only modulate to approx 75-80% brake force accurately and frequently and not yet 90-95% frequentlly and accurately to prevent lock up, ABS off for sure. That brings me to the discussion, I do not get ffb vibration while braking unless I locked-up the wheel. Even when it is locked up, its not strong vibration. Only if ABS set high then I can fell more vibration. Since you understand Leo stuff better, maybe take a look at Danalm json and see what differs from yours.

Track is the Nords Tourist, Autumn.

I also don't know if car model matters...man I am so new

 

Realised I've really settled with the "direct" one of the 2 files
Enjoy it a lot and not fiddling any more (-:

 

Hey @Adrianstealth

Thanks so much for putting all of this info together! I also have a Bodnar v2 so I'll be going through this thread very soon to learn what settings work the best

 

Glad it's helped you

 

thanks for posting Just got OWS kit setup yesterday will try your settings today

 

do you have the pics of mos setting in first post as not able to see them ?
thanks

 

Be aware of potential differences in regard to MMos settings when using different controllers for OSW; for example: SimuCube MMos settings will be different from Argon systems.

 

Hiya
I have no idea what an MMo is,

I use a bodnar V2
Maybe OSW users could help on these

 

thanks have SimuCube MMos based one and using there settings. filters was only thing i was interested in but left off and done in game as recommended

 

just the control panel for wheel forces and rotation

 

Hi,
I will receive my Simcube OSW (small Mige from Simracing Bay) Friday!

Of course I want to drive from the moment I mounted the OSW on my rig.

Can anyone post his MMos and Json settings?

 

https://forum.studio-397.com/index.php?threads/share-your-osw-settings.52499/page-8#post-909114

mine are here

 

Welcome to the DD-wheel club. One of the most common mistakes I see new DD-wheel users making is in regard to soft-clipping and the solution is quite simple but, perhaps not typical among mainstream FFB wheel users.

You'll want to start with lower hardware output force settings until you get acquainted with the system and have tested and proven things are working correctly.

I spent many of my early days with DD chasing my own tail by not understanding the nature of soft-clipping and it's affect on FFB quality. Having tuned both the OSW and AccuForce systems extensively has demonstrated the value of setting the DD-wheel driver output to 100% and reduce the game FFB output to your preferred level.

Both rF2 and AC are quite easy to adjust FFB output on a per-car basis without having to close sessions or edit config files. The bottom line is, any soft-clipping (game FFB signal side) will transfer to the hardware FFB output - period. In terms of FFB quality, Job One in tuning FFB should be to eliminate any chance of soft-clipping occurring.

In terms of DD-wheel safety, some clipping at the very high end may serve as a safety mechanism when running DD-wheels at very high force levels; crashing into a wall for example, may cause very violent wheel movement so some minimal clipping at the extremes can also be useful in that way.

 

Yep when i got mine set it at 25% in mmos and .25 in game to start. then worked up
i have the MMos set to 55% and in game .50 to .60 ish
So is it better to have 100%in mmos and .25ish in game ? I have not tried that way round yet
crashing into wall in rf2 has no effect on ffb jolt wise possibly dialled out in the controller settings i am using

 

Your settings may work fine as I think the main point is to avoid 100% game FFB for the most part as most titles will have some soft-clipping at that setting but, generally - having it set below 75% should provide a good margin in most cases. At the force levels I run for the OSW, most of the titles will be somewhere below 50-60% output anyway and I don't have the voltage maxed out either.

Still, some say it's always best to have the hardware output at 100% but, I suspect there may a placebo effect at work.

 

just tried 100% in MMOS and .31 multi in game may be slightly more defined in lower ffb feel only had quick play
i set it to 55% figuring half the 20nm force 10nm is plenty but have used 1.30 multi in F1 type cars be interesting to see if they feel better keeping multi at 1.00 or .80 and upping mmos max force setting