Not sure if you have understand right what i was trying to explain or i'm doing it wrong. Sorry guys i need to pause here because i have something to do. I check in later the day again.
Sorry for misunderstanding Speed1. I understood you so, that a car with a spinning inner wheel at corner exit should usually oversteer.
You where right if it was a driver or skill issue. It isn't, it is just wrong but i really don't know how i could explain it better. So i give up here and leave it to the pro's. Side note: people shouldn't get me wrong because rf2 still gives me the best overall driving feeling but i don't agree with everything. When i'm using words like crap or something like that, it isn't a bad intention, just my slang or crap english
@speed1. A video of your driving and what you're experiencing would get the ones that can help to understand.
What I think is most interesting in this thread is that we can't seem to have any sort of conversation about rF2 without personal attacks and accusations being mixed in. Everyone has an opinion and mine was not about rF2 in general, but the ISI GT cars in particular. Problems I do not experience as often with other mods I do experience with ISI cars. Others in this thread share my opinion and also believe that rF2 is very good but can be better. Sorry I mentioned the observations that I and many others I have raced with have made about the ISI cars. There are some groups out there doing great things with this great game engine ISI has made.
I'm still struggling to understand exactly what you mean so I'd rather not try and respond with that being the case. I'm unclear if there's a broad observation behind the specifics, perhaps along the lines of it just being too difficult to drift and powerslide the cars. I agree that a video of some sort, even from your cell phone, would probably be helpful.
You could only be referring to me (or perhaps Tim, lol) since other than my message to you it seems to be a perfectly civil thread. The only reason I got snarky is that I've repeatedly addressed your issue with uneven front/rear wear in other threads, provided evidence to the contrary, was ignored, and then a week later you'd post the exact same statements in another thread. If instead you had disagreed and provided some sort of contradictory evidence to support your case, I would happily engage with you. In addition you repeatedly reference these "many others" who share your view about uneven front/rear wear (no heat in the rears, etc.), but I've yet to find them. You say they're in this thread, but they aren't. There isn't a single post in this thread by anyone other than you which even mentions that specific issue. There are people talking about camber effects and thermal properties in general - which I've agreed are perfectly reasonable to question - but not the specific issue you continue to lament. I hope I'm wrong but I suspect that even if I post a video showing my tire temps doing exactly what you say should happen while lapping at spectacular pace you will still choose to believe what you choose.
Once again thanks guys. I forgot about this thread sorry. The strange thing i get burns the tires in same time, i really don't know what's the reason for. Yes a vid could help. I will try once i have hardware and ambitions for. At the moment there is no possibility to do so. Maybe it dissolves well by itself by a build until than.
Well unfortunately also can't at the moment. Because the performance of AMD is very bad with rf2. I got the PC to a part sold and waiting for the new generation GFX hardware but I'm back on it as soon as I can and the pause does no harm. Since all the betas and alphas are around the web i left some nervs
hi, on clio if lost control and finish in the ground or turf, or grass land, because the car speed, the wheels reach 180 degrees? With other cars does not happen.
I'm not completely sure what you mean. In case you mean, your tyretemps get very high (180 Deg.) when you skid or spin the wheel over grass. - Yes tyre temps shouldn't go such high on grass or other "low friction" surfaces. Hope the devs can sort it out at some point in the future. This problem should occur with every car. In case you get to high front-tyre temps on tarmac, than you have to be more careful with the throttle or/and you steer to much in a corner.
Guys I have a question. Talking about the Corvette, how long do you need to get the temps up? I have problems to get the tire temps up fast. I need about 2-3 laps gently driven to get them up to 70, even at Sebring. I don't even know what the proper temp should be but I guess between 70 and 90, the higher the better. It's a massive difference, really. Like two different cars. Once I have them up to 80 it's a joy to drive and I can keep them there most of the time but I really need a time to get into the groove. Am I too conservative? When I push to much to get them up, the fronts are always offended. Any tips?
Takes me about a lap I believe, although they aren't fully there until 2-3 laps in is my best guess without testing for it specifically. If you find the fronts getting hot faster than the rears then you should concentrate on not over-driving the entry phase and getting on the power sooner on exit during your out-lap. I think it's more important to build heat quickly in the rears on the Vette since it's generating a lot of its lap time from acceleration, so the sooner you can start putting the power down the better.
Thx Matt. That's actually what I am trying. I just need to long to get them up. The fronts do not necessarily got faster hot, the tire wear is just faster till you got them up to racing temps. After, I have most of the time the problem with the rear wear again and sometimes the front temps drop down if I relax a bit. It's really amazing how detailed the stuff is actually. rF2 changed my sim driving entirely, to the better I believe. I just thought I need way longer then others to get them up. It's kinda a big problem for me as I am a sort of Mark Webber at the starts and this doesn't help at all. Can't remember the last time I haven't lost positions on the start or even won some.
That was me until about two weeks ago, if you mean literally losing positions before turn 1. Two things fixed it: 1. Looking at the session timer LCD page to know when to go. This is the page that shows the session timer (counting either up or down, depending on type). It shows no value while you're sitting on grid waiting for the start. The instant it displays a value is when you can go without penalty. 2. Reducing my clutch range, so I get full clutch engagement after I've released it a pretty small amount.
1. Now I do understand the dudes starting from P5 and rocketing to P1. 2. Sounds like a good idea, gonna try that. Thx again!
its something wrong with tires and tires pressure center part of the tire always hotter then inner (no matter u do with pressure or other setup settings) and especially outter part (its to cold) (motec telemetry). this happens especially on front tires - rear ones too but not so much as front (marussia, FISI) also i think tires temperature is something strange one - a can see on telemetry sometimes it may be 300 degrees (its not realistic at all, and it was not a lock up) and often over 160-200 (90-100 - optimal tire temperature)...yes it should be 130-160 for while or short time in corners but not over 160-200 and of cause not a 300+
Nothing Special but try to optimise suspension balance. Depending on car and Suspension Setup you wan`t get the power on the track with cold tires and bad drag controle. Ideally the Suspension should press the tire all the time on the ground, which is for sure impossible to keep max patch without slip, but the more bad it is with bad Suspension balance. Altough i miss drag from static weight while the sliding friction has to low resistance and don´t generates enough grip in General.
