This may sound silly to you, but I will never purchase anything that supports Ferrari. In fact, I have fully boycotted all Ferrari F1 sponsors for over a decade.
Well, you just bought a Thrustmaster product, which is a Ferrari commercial partner in the sim hardware market no matter you don't have a prancing horse on your wheel. Great rim! I can confirm.
I tried 100% driver setting (usually 60/100/100/0/0, in game 0.55-0.7). Had to lower ffb multi to 0.4 with Howston... maybe even lower would have been better. I was a little faster with that setting but not sure if it felt better. Force felt more constant and not so dynamic like with 60% setting. Also, even though the torque was ok, other forces were too harsh imo. Maybe I give it another try sometime.
Yeah, i really love this rim to bits. Everything about it feels great, especial paddle shifters....they feel terrifically positive!
Tig, if you use 100% driver the you have to us ingame ffb multi that is 40% lower than the one your used with 60% driver. Reason being, 100% drive had clipping of forces for ffb forces from the game that is 60%-100% (as shown in the graph below). You don't actually get a much higher ffb output with using above 60% driver. Going higher than 60% driver just produces more clipping in the high end forces. However, there is the added benefit of reduced initial ffb deadzone with using higher. So if you found that 0.55-0.7 with 60% driver avoided the ffb clipping, then if you switch to 100% driver you need to use 0.33-0.42 ingame ffb multi to avoid same in-game ffb clipping. The beneift however is that low forces feel generally a little stronger from having a smaller deadzone. I think i'm going to compile all this information into a single dedicated thread over the weekend because i'm repeating alot of what i've said on the forums but all over different threads. It's a little disjointed.
Thanks for this info. I was originally using 40% driver with 0.75 in-game, but I'm now testing 100% driver with 0.30 in-game and I can feel the reduced FFB deadzone you were talking about - I didn't even know it was there until now. I think it feels better so far. I haven't got any faster, but the slight/subtle FFB effects on the exit of slow corners (when you're gradually straightening the wheel) do seem easier to feel, so this should help consistency. Also I've noticed that while the curb effects feel slightly more violent with my new settings, the FFB is no longer clipping even when I hit them (it was clipping with my previous setting, although only when hitting curbs). I'm not sure why the curbs are no longer making the FFB clip, especially as the effects feel slightly stronger. Thanks again for posting your findings.
I switched from a G27 to the T500 as well and what you said in your video was pretty much my exact experience too - everything was there to convince me it was a better wheel, but it didn't actually feel better (at first). I can say though that after a few days and weeks of use I really couldn't go back - I love the wheel. I don't think it improved my lap times much (if at all), but I definitely think it helped with consistency. Most importantly though is the fact that it just feels more 'real', it has made sim racing feel ever so slightly closer to driving a real car. I got used to the fixed gear paddles quite quickly, although in tight corners requiring fast shifting it can still be a bit fiddly. I should mention that I only really drive the open wheelers (F1, Skippy etc) so my experience is based solely on those cars.
The deadzone reduction from using 100% vs 60% strength is really noticeable when driving--particularly when entering a corner. Thanks DrR1pper, I would have never tried anything above 60% without those posts.
I forgot to mention that I recently moved to use ffb smoothing 0 after using 4 for over a year. This made torque little stronger and slightly improved the overall feel. I had to reduce ffb multi from 0.7-0.8 to 0.55-0.7 (driver 60%). My question is, should I still use ffb smoothing 0 with 100% driver force?
Yes still use smoothing at 0, it is an option mainly for lower end wheels (G27) which have rattling problems so it smooths the FFB out for them, the bad side being that you will lose a bit of detail with better wheels.
Hi, I have a problem with the steering wheel and T500 is that no damper force and I also have a problem with the spring. To have these forces I have to modify the controller ini Steering resistance coefficient and Steering spring saturation. I don't know if this is all right or is that I have something wrong.
By default, there should be non of these "static" forces acting on the wheel if you want the purist ffb realism. Any and all dampening or spring effects at the wheel will be generated by the specific cars physics engine if there should be any in the first place.
Hello, Well I have a problem with the nissan gtr because I did not create any of these forces. What should I do? Rfactor 2 is installed by default and also wheel drivers by default. Should rFactor2 steering wheel and drivers installed as administrator? My operating system is Windows 7 Premium I have tried to change usb ports and nothing. That will not do sorry for my English