Yes, he puts in a lot of energy to share his positive experience with people, with the hope that other people come to the enjoyment which may not be capable to find out what best suits. Very kind and self-sacrificing, hopefully it's worth the hassle. Even if I personally do not need it, I respect it and thank you for that man.
Nothing wrong with that, he did the tests for his knowledge and to get the best feeling for his hardware/sim and he is kind enough to share his results with us, and he certainly deserves a BIG "thank you". Now, if you,me or everybody here likes the results and his settings it's up to someone personal taste, again nothing wrong and you won't lose nothing to try. What I know is that I learned something (watching all the graphs) that I didn't know about my wheel and that is good. Keep informing us DrR1pper.
Yes, unfortunately I've made different experiences, it's never good enough, no matter how good the intentions but I share your opinion.
Your very welcome guys. hmm, i undertand it feels weaker but you will get clipping if you use 100% overall and go higher than 0.55 for the megane. You can't rely on the pedal plugin to see if your clipping if you use 100% overall because with 100% overall there is also built in clipping (any forces above 60% from the game....i.e. if ffb bar goes 60% or higher in the pedal plugin). You can use 0.75 if you use 60% overall though but again the results are very similar, i only use 100% overall because it reduces the initial ffb deadzone from 8% to only 4% and the low end feels a little stronger/responsive as a result. I've heard of this type of thing happening before but i'm surprised on a wheel because the ffb power is coming from the mains and not the usb socket itself. Different usb sockets can have different power outputs and perhaps the signal that runs through the usb is amplified by the higher or lower voltage of your motherboards usb socket vs the usb pci card (e.g. if the voltage on the pci is half the motherboards then the ffb signal to the ffb could be halved as well). But I doubt that the ingame ffb settings would change the feel in general for different pc's because it's software code that's the same for all of use.
So here i am drooling about having a t500 but have to cope with my g27. After reading this tread i went and tested some settings with my g27 (used the eve F1B at Brianza 10k) i came to the conclusion that the g27 and the car/track combo works best with ffb ingame set to 0.77 and in logitech profiler set to 115 All the things drR1pper said also works well with the g27 settings have to be different to the t500 settings because the g27 isn't even near the thrustmaster if it goes on the forces produced. but the settings stated do get you some great feeling about what is going on with the car. Hey i even did my pb like this just because it's so much easier (sorry for my bad English) to make a turn just becaus you know what is going on. Thanks drR1pper for sharing, and thanks ISI for this great sim. (i know there are still issues but it's getting better and better every build)
Cheers Eddy & John. LOL And yeah, this is applicable to everyone regardless of wheel. The issue lies with using the default ingame ffb multiplier of "1.0" causing software-side ffb clipping in the corners which will just get passed onto any wheel you use. yeah, bodnar is a beast. Adrian (the one from leicester) from the forums let me drive his rig and he had a bodnar wheel. It was extremely powerful, even manage to cut myself on some exposed metal on his steering wheel when i crashed and the wheel was ripped so violently out of my hands. It's fine to use the full strength of the wheel (if you dare ) so long as they get the ingame multiplier down to avoid clipping. I presume they were using rfactor 1 in the vid? Edit: Scratch that....looks like rf2!
Thx DrR1pper, it was a long interesting read and change my mind about ffb settings. I'm also using this for other games and works also for SimBin games
Doh!...is it the same exact modern spa track mod though? Your welcome triskele10 and it makes sense that it should work in other sim titles too, thanks for confirming. Yeah, i think i might consolidate all the important information together in one post in a dedicated thread this weekend.
Yesterday I drove the Megane with 100% and 0.35 in game, and it improved quite the feeling. Thanks DrR1pper, I hope this ffb setting give me the pole at Monza
I'll be seeing your there Franysco Are you using a T500 Frankysco? 0.35 is very very low, no? I can use 0.55 with 100% overall.
Many thanks DrR1pper for this work : I'm trying the 100% overall but with 0.50 ingame (0.55 is too strong for me) or even 0.45 (depends the car) or even less (Mazda car for instance) and I compare with 60% overall (I use LimerockPark without chicanes as test track)...I found that with 60% overall and 1 ingame the steering was softer than with 100% overall and 0.60 ingame (and I prefer when it is softer!) but I don't know why...? I will continue to test this tomorrow. Thanks again!
Ok, so the ideal ingame ffb multi is 0.75-0.8 for normal wheels (e.g. with default 60% overall for t500 users). If you use 100% the equivalent ideal point turns out to actually be 0.8*0.6 = 0.48. I have been reducing mine gradually from 0.55 to 0.54, to 0.53 and finding it nicer in the corners. If i go straight to 0.48 its too weak for my taste atm but i'm going down gradually and seeing how it feels and affects my performance.
Hey mclaren, nice video. The part about stability was also true for me going from csr-elite to t500. It can be ridiculously strong with high ingame ffb. Can i ask if you lowered the ingame or the one in the t500 control panel? The ideal setting is to keep it at 60% in the t500 control panel and then use around 0.77-0.8 ingame (avoids ffb clipping) or you can go lower with the ingame ffb to taste and you'll benefit from not ever hitting the ffb clipping point in a normal race session. Or what i do is use 100% in the t500 control panel (as this happens to reduce the initial ffb deadzone amount from 8% on 60% overall to only 2.5% for 100% overall) and then use 0.5-0.55 ingame (i now use 0.53 and may go lower again). That extreme deadzone/loose feeling around the center that you had on the g27 that in comparison to the t500 is now gone is from the initial ffb deadzone on the g25/27 which was around 12-15%. You can't tell what the value is exactly on the graph (i have the excel data) but you can see the deadzone reduce. Unfortunately with 100% overall there is now ffb clipping issue for forces above 60% from the game (caused from using 100% on the wheel side not ingame) so in order to avoid it, you have to use a lower ingame ffb multiplier that avoided the wheel's ffb clipping range.
I haven't changed anything in the TM control panel – everything is stock apart from updating my wheel's firmware. I've simply lowered the FFB multiplier in rF2.
That's good. Here's my settings if your interested: Oh and are your considering the 458 rim? It's really good.