The Way to Cope With Toilet Problems Effectively Having grown up in the 50's I am partial to some rock and roll but not when I am on the Best flushing toilet(Medium.com). An unstable toilet that changes around if you sit it is irritating. Not only is this uncomfortable but it might also stone enough to eventually divide the bowl. The issue can usually be adjusted by calling a plumber but you must be careful to not split the toilet bowl when you try to fix it. Never forget that china is ceramic. On each side of the toilet bowl in the bottom you will find caps that cover a bolt and a nut. If you wiggle the bathroom bowl--a toilet bowl is best managed with nitrile or latex gloves--and may see the bolts aren't tight, your very best plan of action would be to tighten them but carefully and a bit at a time before the bowl rests securely on the floor. When the bolts are tight but the bowl rocks look carefully at the way in which the foundation attaches to the floor. Are there gaps? Is the floor irregular from the bowl? You can purchase small plastic shims designed to resolve this or create your own out of hardwood. The plastic ones aren't going to have to be replaced but may be hard to discover. I looked up these at the Home Depot website and they show DANCO plastic bathroom shims in a four-pack. Take care to not split the bowl by forcing the shim in too much better. It is easier to split a toilet tank or bowl than you might think. Virtually everybody who takes up the plumbing trade breaks a couple of from the learning process. In case you have any doubts it's best to call a plumber. Another issues that are common in bathroom problems are: ghost flush, a tank that doesn't fill, a tank which won't flusha bowl that drains gradually, along with the constant sound of water flowing. The easiest of these to cope with is the complete tank which will not flush. This normally occurs when the chain that attaches from the tank lever (many men and women think of the as the deal ) within the tank into the flapper. A flapper is a piece of flexible material that blocks the hole in the flush valve in which the water escapes as the toilet flushes. Flipping the tank lever pulls the chain and the flapper comes up letting the water to begin massaging through the flush valve. The flush valve is the plastic part that attaches into the toilet tank (the part where the water to flush the toilet is contained); it frequently resembles a smokestack with a huge opening at the bottom and two hooks where the flapper is connected. If the handle works but nothing occurs then reattach the string to the flapper but leave some slack in the series. If you make it too tight then water might continually leak from the tank since the flapper will not seat properly. Test the flush by tripping the handle and watching to see that the flapper rises, hangs back while the water flows, and then reseats closely on the flush valve. When you hear your toilet flushing at the middle of the night--it occurs at other times but the hustle and bustle of our daily life span out it --it is not a ghost in the bathroom. Ghost flush is caused by water leaking from the tank to the bowl. When the water level in the tank gets down to a certain level the fill valve (also referred to as a ballcock) kicks on and provides water into the tank. The valve is the device that matches your tank. The problem is not with the fill valve; the difficulty lies with the flapper or the flush valve. Old flappers lose their shape and warp. If they eventually become warped water can flow past them gradually and the tank will gradually go down until the fill valve is triggered and adds water to the tank. The very first step would be to take out the flapper, take it into your plumbing socket, and replace it with an equivalent flapper. Remember to attach the chain as in the earlier paragraph and test to make sure that the tank operates correctly. If that doesn't correct the issue then you probably require a fresh flush valve. Flush valves have a rounded edge that seats against the flapper. Whether this chair develops an opening in which water may pass, then it leaks. It's highly improbable but you could also have a leak on your tank; it will happen but seldom. Replacing a flush valve can be tricky, not because the approach is technically difficult but instead because of rust. The first thing to do is to ensure that the valve on the wall, called a angle stop, functions; you do not need a flood in your toilet. Now examine your bathroom. A two-piece toilet is bolted together. Normally this is with two bolts that go between the bowl and tank but sometimes there are three; those can become corroded and difficult to turn. This is where many bathrooms are broken by novices. I have needed to use a saw to reduce on these bolts more times than I want to recall; the bolts were frozen solid. When in doubt cut them using a saw or call a plumber. One-piece bathrooms cannot be taken apart and replacing the flush valve might be easy or hard depending on the model and make of the bathroom. When in doubt, call a plumber. Most flush valves have been connected to the toilet tank with a nut which screws to the base of the flush valve and presses against the base of the tank. I suggest taking an image of your flush valve before you try any type of fix and checking with your regional plumbing store to see if it's a common replacement part. Read more: What is The Top Best Flushing toilet reviews to buy & most powerful flushing toilets - Toiletszones A tank that doesn't fill is commonly caused by a failed fill valve. Should you flush the tank and listen to no water running, the ballcock is the culprit unless the valve into the bathroom on the wall is switched off or the water to the home is off. Take an image of it with your phone, if possible, and make tracks into the local plumbing shop to get an idea of just how easy removing it may be and how much they cost. Most fill valves attach to the tank such as the flush valve with one nut and washer and then connect to the water supply in the wall with a flexible connector. Before you consider doing this a project yourself be sure the valve on the wall shuts off the water. These wall valves are rarely used and often fail. It is no pleasure to disconnect the elastic line from the toilet and have a flood in your bathroom which you could just stop by turning off the water at the primary! Don't over tighten the nut on the valve when you attach it to the tank or the tank can split. A tank reservoir that never matches completely or the sound of water continuously running is usually due to either the flapper or the flush valve allowing water to pass out of the tank. Begin by replacing the flapper. This is exactly the same problem that causes ghost flush and also refer to this section above. The sound of water flowing constantly can be a leaking fill valve. If the fill valve is leaking the water at the tank will be up to the very best line of the flush valve, then the top of the tube. You will see water pouring down the tube. A failed fill valve needs to be replaced. A bowl that empties slowly can be caused by 2 things: a partly clogged drain line or clogged drains. This can be true of our new low flush toilets, there's not enough water going down the drain at a flush to correctly move solids down the line. If paper and other solids build up the drain size is effectively decreased and the water will not go down the drain as fast as it should and the bowl won't drain properly. If the obstruction is at the line near the best composting toilet(My page) the ideal tool to use is a closet auger with a drop head. This tool is a drain snake specifically designed for a bathroom. The best closet augers extend up to 6 feet. The other possible issue could be clogged jets. Within the bathroom bowl you will find holes situated inside the upper rim. These holes, or jets, become clogged over time with calcium and other mineral deposits. The jets are made to help the water from the bowl flush out. Unclogging these requires the use of a harmful solvent like Calci-Solve or another brand of hydrochloric acid. Acids like these should be applied by means of a plumber who's trained in their usage. Hydrochloric acid gets warm in water. It can become so hot that it is going to create the toilet bowl to explode and I've heard of this occurring. If the jets are obstructed I advocate either replacing the toilet or calling a certified plumber to address the issue.
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I have no idea if this works as I don't race the AI. In your player.JSON (found here: wherever Steam is installed\steamapps\common\rFactor 2\UserData\player) Find these lines: "Fixed AI Setups":false, "Fixed AI Setups#":"whether AI use the fixed setups, only applicable if \"Fixed Setups\" is also enabled (and can be used in single player to have the AIs use your favorite setup)", "Fixed Setups":false, "Fixed Setups#":"use fixed setups specified in UserData\\<plr>\\FavoriteAndFixedSetups.gal (based on track and vehicle class)", Change false to true, the FavoriteAndFixedSetups.gal can be opened with Notepad. Hope that helps. By the way in case you didn't know, build 1098 is old, the latest is 1109. Edit: Bernd may have a better solution.
