The Right FFB??

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by vegaguy5555, Apr 4, 2017.

  1. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Registered

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    Has that "improved" functionally got on the go adjustment like AMS at all? Because that would be sweet.
     
  2. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Registered

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    I have both retail and beta loaded and quite often use the beta if im just going to use stock content (i only install mods to the retail).
    I've had no conficts between both but like having access to the early content and the beta forum(Reiza51).
     
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  3. Emery

    Emery Registered

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    There's only the per-car FFB adjustment which, unfortunately, can only be adjusted in the garage/options. The other adjustment options in realfeel are unnecessary. If you want to fine-tune the FFB for all cars, there are some options in the controller file, but don't go there until you've got the feeling close with the standard options. And especially not until you've taken care of SPR and DPR!
     
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  4. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Registered

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    Still haven't had a chance to play :( Hopefully tonight . I really hope SPR and DPR off help !
     
  5. vegaguy5555

    vegaguy5555 Registered

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    This thread really is helping me understand FFB. Thanks. Even AC is feeling better.
    I'm getting a cleaner FFB signal with everything now.
     
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  6. vegaguy5555

    vegaguy5555 Registered

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    I just discovered heavy FFB for Fanatec wheels but only 917k Porsche. What a difference this makes. The car is much more drivable and fun and it already was great. I know the traction has not just been increased but that's kind of how it feels.

    What's really happening is just what it says, more weight on the wheel but not just turned up strength. It's hard to describe.....more information in the wheel.

    I have been experimenting with less damping and drl off and just adding spring when needed which giving me a less molested, cleaner FFB. Now add the 917 k with heavy FFB and wow.

    I think AC overall has more traction but I am not getting a clean FFB signal as most others are for some reason, although it is getting better.

    Sim racing is complicated, hair pulling, expensive, very time consuming and the most fun I have had since I've been a kid.:)
     
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  7. Alex72

    Alex72 Registered

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    With AMS and RealFeel i drop 10% RFP mix (numpad 1) to a value of 90%, and then i drop 1 or 2 steps on "smoothing" (numpad 0) to keep it at 1 or 2. If the FFB is a bit too light or heavy i use numpad 7/8 to increase/decrease power. The audio feedback is good though or you wont know what you are doing.

    AMS is a great product. With all Patrick G's tracks (AMS quality) you got a great sim experience (oh also the 911 Porsche mod is a must :) ). Aaaand i love the shrunken mini ARC Camaro's. :D

    @Emery SPR & DPR? Whats that? EDIT: I read through the thread and i get it now. Is that a Fanatec only thing? Sorry if i missed that.
     
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  8. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Registered

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    7/9 isnt it ? 8 Reverses it .
     
  9. vegaguy5555

    vegaguy5555 Registered

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    It may be a Fanatec only thing.

    Do you know how to install a track in AMS? I got the Nordschleife and put in locations, then renamed it as it says in the instructions but it just locks everything up.
     
  10. Emery

    Emery Registered

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    Spring and damper settings at the wheel. Most wheels have a similar thing in their control panel and, in general, they should be zeroed out. Fanatec wheels can be adjusted on the wheel & multiple setups saved which can be recalled for different games. As I recall, Logitech uses the profiler to do the same thing.

    It is unfortunate that most wheels (all consumer wheels?) ship with software defaults having spring & damper at maximum.

    The oddballs like myself that insist on using spring & damper should use a minimal amount. Different brands of wheels will have a different range for spring & damper, even if the range says 100%, so minimal is specific to the brand/model of wheel.
     
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  11. Alex72

    Alex72 Registered

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    That track doesnt work i think. Only use Patrick Giranthon's tracks because they are top top top notch AMS quality.

    @Emery Thanks bud for the info. :)
     
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  12. Alex72

    Alex72 Registered

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    Ah yes... 7/9. 8 is for reversing FFB (some mods have reversed FFB in AMS so just press numpad8 and it fixes it). It was late... Thanks. :)
     
  13. RaceNut

    RaceNut Registered

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    That's because the majority of users are assumed to be playing arcade-racers where those effects are used to simulate various effects that aren't necessarily tied to performance and precision. As Sim-racers, we want the most vital information plus the added immersion factor without too much fluff.
     
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  14. Alex72

    Alex72 Registered

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    Yep those are always OFF. Then again im on a crap wheel atm, but i never felt any difference with spring on/off. Might be due to cheap wheel, but so i always leave all extras/canned stuff OFF.
     
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  15. RaceNut

    RaceNut Registered

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    I use DD-wheels now but, I owned several Logitech and Fanatec wheels before and turning off the Spring, Damper and canned effects was always the best way to go with any Sim.

    Direct-drive wheels can actually provide too much detail, speed and harshness so we may use dampening to soften details and slow the response down a little. Still, I always start from zero and add only what it takes to achieve a nice rubber quality in the FFB while conveying some detail. My number one target effect is grip-loss; if I can feel that, then the rest is just gravy on top.

    It seems there are two approaches to Grip-loss detection; one is break-away or the sudden absence of grip (Assetto Corsa / RR) and the other is progressive resistance leading up to grip-loss (rF2 / AMS). Other titles may have a combination of these effects but, those are the ones that best define the differences IMO.
     
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  16. stonec

    stonec Registered

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    At least in Logitech control panel the option "allow game to adjust settings" is ticked by default, so those spring settings make no difference in my experience. In Thurstmaster control panel the spring stuff is also 0% by default. Basically you don't need to change anything for most wheels and get a good FFB experience in rF2 out of the box.
     
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  17. green serpent

    green serpent Registered

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    Recently I've completely changed the way I adjust ffb. It's early days yet and it may be the placebo effect, but it feels as if I can control slides better (especially the dreaded tank slapper), and I can feel optimum front slip angle better. The usual disclaimer - I really don't know what's correct/incorrect here, so please feel free to poke holes in the theory.

    Basically, the idea is to maximize the dynamic range of the in-game ffb signal (I know this sounds obvious but stay with me). Provided you have the pedal overlay/clipping plug in, select a car and keep incrementally increasing the ffb multiplier. Pay no attention whatsoever to how the actual ffb in your hands is feeling, don't worry if it's super heavy/obviously clipping (at this stage we are focusing only on the in-game ffb signal - how your wheel is scaling that signal does not matter at this point.) Keep tweaking the ffb multi until the ffb signal begins to slightly clip during very hard cornering. The idea is to stretch the signal out across it's entire workable range.

    As an example, with the Honda NSX, this number was 1.34. For the corvette Z06 it was 1.74. Each mod/setup has a definite ffb multi that maximizes the dynamic range of the in game ffb signal. Once this number is found, the in game ffb multi stays put permanently (apart from slight tweaking to try to get closer to max dynamic range).

    Now for the downside - you'll need to adjust the final ffb strength in the steering wheel software. This is an ongoing thing each time you load up a different mod. Granted, this is highly annoying. I find that if I press the windows key, I can make adjustments in the logitech profiler then go back into rf2 without it crashing.

    Also, I'm not sure how to check for hardware clipping (wheel check tool?), but obviously this would be better that just guessing. I usually increase the ffb strength to my liking, which is usually as heavy as possible while still being completely smooth - if there is any hitching feeling whatsoever even with very rapid movements, I lower ffb (increasing smoothing helps with with too.)
     
  18. vegaguy5555

    vegaguy5555 Registered

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    This is very interesting and a great example of how different wheels/rigs behave.

    My v2 is the opposite unless I have misunderstood? I get spiked over clipping so I lower it until I have as little clipping as possible. 45-65 and then increase FOR. 130 is ideal for the Cobra, which takes the car from undriveable to one of the best sim experiences. For some reason this combination lets me feel the braking points of the tires. This doesn't always work.

    I would love to do some research of as many rigs as possible. With permission of course, travel around and make a video of each one. See how different each setup is and how everyone is experiencing all these sim softwares, especially AC, which has left lost for wheel settings. I'm starting to think it's my attitude that is the problem.

    Thanks everyone for understanding what I am asking in this thread. I am closer to the 'Right FFB' now for sure.:)
     
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  19. TonyRickard

    TonyRickard Registered

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    Since getting an OSW the rF2 FFB feels very natural. What is interesting is that with my G29 I felt Assetto Corsa felt more like a steering mechanism but the OSW seems to bring out hidden capabilities in both iRacing and rF2 IMHO.

    iRacing has an auto feature to keep you just under clipping but with my wheel in some cars it simply becomes too heavy.

    I haven’t felt compelled to tweak the FFB settings with rF2 since upgrading the wheel. Of course upgrading to a direct drive wheel isn’t prerequisite to enjoying rF2 but I think having the capability to match the torque of the real vehicle demonstrates just how good the FFB is out of the box.
     
  20. RaceNut

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    In case you missed it, one trick to avoid clipping and insure you get the most out a DD-system is to set the wheel driver output at or near maximum and use the game-FFB strength to reduce force setting to desired levels. This is especially helpful with AC because the FFB-signal (Gain) can be over-boosted quite easily; set MMos Max Force to 100% and reduce AC-FFB gain to 25 - 35% and you should get the best results.
     
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