I'm one of the many users who bought the Fanatec CSL Elite PC and Xbox bundle last year. While this wheel turned out to be amazing and almost perfect out of the box on many sims, it's struggling on the ISI engined games (rFactor 1 and 2, Automobilista). I remember how the rF2 FFB used to be on my good old G27. I know how a race car wheel feels as I've driven one. Yet, no matter what I do, the CSL Elite doesn't give me a good experience here. I asked on Discord, I replied on a few threads, I went on Reddit. After an initial concern, everybody disappeared leaving me and the all the people who own this wheel in the dark. It's been month that I'm fiddling with settings. This morning I decided to end it once and for all. I'm asking everyone who has a CSL Elite to post here, so maybe together we can find a solution. The problems are: -Weak FFB -Heavy shaking at high speeds -Rattling I made a series of tests on a track I know well with a car I know well: USF2000 @Indianapolis14 The settings I started with: SEn AUT FF 100 SHo 100 ABS OFF dri OFF* For 90 SPr 80 dPr 100 FEI OFF* *I had already established that with rF2 and AMS you want this two settings at OFF, or the wheel will go crazy. Any FEI more than OFF gives rattling. Run 1: 1'28"316 Smooth: 4 Minimum Torque: 0,5% Notes: my default settings, not much to feel Run 2: 1'28"043 Smooth: 3 Minimum Torque: 0,5% Notes: minimal shaking and no rattling. Despite the numbers, you don't feel much on the track. Run 3: 1'28"166 FOR 100 Spr 100 Dpr 100 Unless otherwise noted, the rest of the settings (Smooth, Torque etc) stay the same Notes: Little rattling, wheel shakes at high speeds Run 4: 1'27"760 FOR 100 Spr 0 Dpr 0 Notes: Heavy shaking, BUT the wheel is as heavy as it should be, the feel when cornering is amazing. That it made me faster is no surprise: lately I did another run with this setting and if I didn't screw up a corner (I was using an old setup built around the G27 brake pedal) I would have repeated the lap time. Run 5: 1'28"576 FOR 100 Spr 100 Dpr 100 Multiplier: 0.85 (remember that I always use 1.00) Notes: Meh feeling. Some shaking on the straights, can't feel much at low speed. Run 6: 1'28"134 FOR 90 Spr 100 Dpr 100 Smooth 7 Multiplier: back to 1.0 Notes: this is a strange one. On my notebook I wrote: "bad... bad..." but as we'll see in a moment, it got good numbers. So, this is one I hope someone could try on their own and report back. I still don't know. The shakes were there, if you're asking. Let's see the FFB Output average: As I mentioned, my last run got the best average on a single lap, but I didn't like the feeling. I can say for sure that what gives the heavy shaking on the straights is FOR: the problem is that I love the heavy feeling at 100, it's how the wheel should feel (this car doesn't have power steering AFAIK) and how I experienced it in real life, but it turns on the unbearable shaking. At 90 the shake is a bit better, but it's still there. Same at 80. The lower you tune FOR, the lighter the wheel will feel. So, these are my findings. I still don't know which settings to use. I'm torn between Run 1 (no shakes, no rattles, but very low forces) and Run 4 (shakes, but the feel is amazing and it makes you go unconsciously faster). What I'm asking is for you to try, share, discuss. And please, Studio397, if you have the time, we need more documentation on wheel settings. As with everything else, we're almost in the dark.
Hi Karei, I've had this wheel for about a year. So I did my own testing to get a reasonable setup. All these setting have come from just testing, I've not got any software to give any info. Here's my settings in the game... Car specific FFB - 120 - 70 varies from car to car FFB Smoothing - 6 FFB Min Torque - 2% In the profiler I have the wheel range at 650, also set at 650 ingame On the wheel I have Sen = 70 FF = 100 Sho = 100 Abs = OFF Lin = OFF DeA = OFF DrI = OFF For = 60 SPr = 120 DPr = 10 brF = OFF It werks ok fer me, like I said I just vary the FFB in game for the car I'm using. I hope something here werks fer you SS
Hi @Karei , I feel I should point out that the game's FFB output is purely based on the car physics and the game's parameters. Your wheel settings will have no effect on it (but obviously will affect what you feel). Without some sort of methodology you're just going to have to go by feel.
Smelly Sadly, I don't like these settings, but in them there's something I finally understood: FEI 10 reduces the intensity of the vibrations. Now, on Facebook I joined the Fanatec Owners Group, where a kind guy adviced me to try: "SteeringTorqueSensitivity" (controller.json) to 1.5 Spr and Dpr OFF Minimum Torque 0% Doing that gave me back the weight I was looking for (you need to lower the Car Specific FFB to avoid clipping), but of course neither the rattling nor the shaking have disappeared.
I also have the wheel CSL elite ps4 and I am looking to find the best ffb for the wheel, in your post you pointed to a Facebook group of fanatec wheel owners. It is possible that you tell me what the group is called so I integrate. Greetings and many thanks
Ok, Thank you very much I just sent the request, now I hope that the administrators accept the request. and the last thing, what configuration of ffb do you have in RF2? Thanks!
You're welcome! As of today I'm using: SEn AUT FF 100 SHo 100 ABS OFF dri OFF For 80 SPr OFF dPr OFF FEI 10 I increased SteeringTorqueSensitivity to 1.5 Minimum Torque 0 Then I check on Motec how much I'm clipping, and lower the Car Multiplier until there's a tiny amount of clipping in the longest turns, maybe just a spike in the graph. That is around 0.80 depending on the car. Now, I repeat that I'm not satisfied, the rattling never goes away, but the latest build has reduced it a little bit: it means there is an actual non-addressed problem in the sim. That the devs have disappeared after I asked them for help both on the forum and directly on discord (there was an initial interest, but then all went quiet) is disheartening, but I'm still giving rF2 a chance.
once again thank you very much for your help! I've noticed the rattle in less way with the new update, and if we lower it to the SHO from 100 to 80? I will change something I will try during the night to see if it changes. regards
I just tried SHO 100, 50, 10 and OFF. On my end it doesn't have an effect on rattling. I advise to leave it at 100 because it's helpful to catch slides.
yes, leave the sho in 100, now the other, as you the damper in the profile of windows, I take it to 900 ° and 80 of Damper in the profile of fanatec, and you? regards
Hi, does every Fanatec CSL user have this problem you are talking about or are you exceptions? I was thinking about maybe buying Fanatec bundle and rf2 is my main sim but this is discouraging
It's unclear. I know for sure we're not the only ones: I saw people complaining here and there, hence the reason I created this thread, to work together to a common solution. Those who don't have rattling or shaking are using very low FFB values and typically say they haven't adjusted it yet. I mean, you can have a clear feedback, but at the cost of weight and car informations. An old thread on RaceDepartment during the rFactor1 and RealFeel days led people to believe that wheels should be light. Only F1 and cars with power steer have light wheels. The other ones are very very heavy (I experienced it). Now, somebody could say that the vibrations we are experiencing are tyre deformation and other things like that, but I didn't have those on my old G27, nor you feel that on a real race car, so I don't think that's the case here. Anyway the Firmware and the Drivers just released didn't change a thing Damper setting, I'd say that it depends. If you want weight, like I do, you have two options: DPR 100 or SteeringTorqueSensitivity at about 1.5 (controller.json), in which case you don't need DPR and should leave it to OFF.
Thanks for the answer but I mean this parameter, which is enclosed in a red circle (Dampening Strength) I point out that the photo is not from my wheel is just to show the (Dampening Strength) As I tell you, friend, I have that value in 80 on my csl elite ps4, what value do you have?
I give up. I uninstalled rF2, cleaned everything, then downloaded it from scratch. It's the same. I hate the FFB, and I'm so fed up that I have to take a long hiatus from this game. Hope something will be sort out in the meantime, but I'm not counting on it.
I feel your pain, I have the same issues on my CSL Elite PS4. The rumble strips just kill the wheel, and the only workaround is to set either Filtering very high in game or FEI very low which both take away a lot of the feeling.
Hello, even with SEN AUT + ingame 'Vehicule Set' checked the ingame wheel is not synchronized with the real wheel. What can I do? Thanks.
