T500RS --> TX / T300RS base?... And what about getting the F1 wheel?

Yes on those values.
My T500 has been at 40 max since the second day I owned it.
Most modern race cars...even those without power-assist feel fairly normal at speed.
Some of the higher settings on the T500 introduce some bad stuff.
I'd suggest you start lower and then work your way up to see what you like.
Don't just go with the 'recommended' setting.
You may find it doesn't suit your preference.

 

If you like so you can also try my settings, which i think are the best possible in parallel to Paul's.

The car multi is the only value it needs to set right to avoid clipping, which from experience is between 0.25 - 0.80 with this settings.

Here a copy from the other thread:

T500RS Control Panel:
80 - 100 - 100 -0 - 0 - by the game

Json edited lines:

Not sure if this first lines have any influence on an ffb wheel, but anyway i set it off

"Other spring coefficient":0.0,
"Other spring coefficient#":"Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0) for any other FFB-capable controllers",
"Other spring saturation":0,
"Other spring saturation#":"Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0) for any other FFB-capable controllers",


"Steering resistance coefficient":0,
"Steering resistance coefficient#":"Coefficient to use for steering resistance. Range: -1.0 to 1.0",
"Steering resistance saturation":0,
"Steering resistance saturation#":"Saturation value to use for steering resistance. Range: 0 - 1.0",
"Steering resistance type":0,
"Steering resistance type#":"0=use damping, 1=use friction",
"Steering spring coefficient":0,
"Steering spring coefficient#":"Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0)",
"Steering spring saturation":0,
"Steering spring saturation#":"Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0)",
"Steering torque capability":12,
"Steering torque capability#":"The maximum torque capability of the wheel (in Nm, obviously)",

"Steering torque minimum":0.008,
"Steering torque minimum#":"Minimum torque to apply in either direction to overcome steering wheel's 'FFB deadzone' caused by friction",

"Steering torque sensitivity":1.74,
"Steering torque sensitivity#":"Sensitivity curve applied to representable torques: 0.0=low 1.0=linear 2.0=high",
"Steering torque zero-speed mult":0.1,

And here with the last line i also don't know if it has an influence on the rolling friction and resistance but i set it low. Maybe this can be higher but i did let it there since the last change i did on the json, and didn't adjusted it back to the stand still resistance to match anyway. It's a bit light with some cars on stand but because the overall ffb felt good to me i didn't optimized it further since than.

 

Sincerelly, you will miss your T500. I've got yours and a TX and never will sell my big one.
FFB is better in TX and T300, they are smoother but it's difficult to explain why T500 is really the king.

 

Maybe it's the higher torque?

 

Yes but with cogging ( just opposite than TX ). It gives you more control with road cars. With F1 you need less cogging so TX helps. Complicate to explain and better if you feel it.

 

Hmm very interesting. This is driving me crazy.

I've also heard that the T300RS is generally much more reliable than the TX yet they're supposed to be identical besides the console stuff...Lack of detailed info makes these types of purchases frustrating

 

If your T500 isn't feeling great all of a sudden, check the center screws at the rim for security.
I personally had to tighten mine a few times...before I used the loctite.
They're known for working themselves loose and amplifying 'notchiness'....not to mention loss of direct feel.

 

This and one of the main problems is what seems the engineers are still not aware of is, that the main drive belt at the e-motor misses a deflection pulley or a tension roller, what adds to the overall play because it misses preload. If you hold the gear at the motor and turn the wheel a bit you will notice that the belt stretches until the tension reaches to turn the gear.

Very cheap engineering if you ask me, what leads to a kind of lag under high response scenarios or high level forces.

 

Very interesting.

 

Ofc as myself is Seriously i could change that by developing a pulley for but i never find the passion to do so, because if you turned screwes for your live, it isn't really as funny as for hobbyists.

 

You can also increase the effective torque with different pulleys, correct? I read of some people tightening the belts and/or changing the pulleys of the Fanatec CSW V1 wheels which results in more torque.

 

Not really but the response and directness which again would increase friction when the belts are to strong.

The scenario you talk about would only be the case when the belts would get stretched to much what would lead to less starting torque but once the tension is reached it would normalize. In other words the torque increasing rate would change and would rise up more steap and the steering response would become more sharp but at the cost of higher friction.

It may is sensed than as if it would increase the max torque but as long as there was no slip before it can't increase the max torque what can't be the case with the t500rs belts with tooth in general but the response could be increased as the lag minimized, but not the max torque.

I guess those wheels are slipping due to the belts they use when there is to less preload on.

 

Oh ok thanks for correcting me in that.

Messing around with different pulley sizes and designs would affect the torque though, correct?

 

Inderect yes, but not because of the pulley sizes, which are just there to ensure the lowest stretch and slip in the belt drive, while considering the lowest friction possible to avoid high resistance unloaded, the just would increase under load.

Actually the most effective and cheap solution is the gear drive, which is the most similar to a direct drive, such as the G series from logidreck ( germans know what i mean ), because of the very cheap engineering, not because the tec is scrap, but the used material. Actually the belt drive wheels are more scrap than the toth drives, due to the tension involved in the belt drives.

The issue is the backlash what makes the gear drive useless in this case, and the noise the cheap material in use generates, what makes you feel like controlling something broken. I hate this toys and the idea that it would be enough for the user. That is another engineering joke, where i ask myself if they really think people would be all silly on this planet.

Yes my doughter was impressed when she controlled the clio with it, but i liked to ask the engineers if they are real, from the very first time i get my G27. The t500rs i get just because of the higher torque, and not because i believed in the engineering performance.

Yes i know someone will argue, the price dictates, but even than it would be possible to do a better job if the human wasn't greedy.

 

I just tightened TX's belts and it feels much better now.
Thought that there might be some play in the mechanism so i opened the base and i was happily surprised because it was possible to adjust tension for both belts.
First belt can be tightened by loosening motor's attachment bolts, then pull motor and tighten the screws. And for second belt there was a tensioner that can be adjusted. I had to take small piece of plastic off from base to get my screw driver to the screw of the belt tensioner, but the cover covers that spot so it's not visible.
I'am very happy with the result. i'am not even sure that is there more friction in the mechanism now. Wheel just feels more direct.

If someone does this i would say that the first/motor belt don't need to be as tight as the second belt, because the moment coming to first belt is smaller.

 

is there anyway you can provide some more details? Maybe a video or pics of the entire process? I'd love to do this but a little worried without some more guidance. Thanks.

 

To take the cover off unscrew the screws pointting upwards on the sides of case and those 4 screw on the round peace that is behind the rim.
View attachment 16477
Then loosen those 4 screw attaching the motor. Pull motor upwards and tighten the screws. Then spin the mechanism to hear what kind of noise it makes. If it is very loud loosen the belt little bit. After tightening that belt to good tension (in my opinion), mine got little bit loader than before. You can also check if there's slack by holding the lower pulley by putting a screw driver or allen key or something under it and then pulling the driver/key upwards like a lever And then try to rotate motors pulley with your hand or with pliers.

Plastic part under that red screw is tensioner for the second belt. To get my screwdriver to it i had to take small peace of plastic off like you see in pictures below. I used screw driver, hammer and pliers to do that.
View attachment 16478
View attachment 16479
Then just loosen the red screw and push the tensioner to set the tension and then tighten the screw. Then you can test whole mechanism's slack by holding motor pulley (tip of the shaft) with pliers and then turing the steering wheel or the attachment point for it. Or you can hold the lower pulley to test the second belt separately.

 

Thank you very much, Korva. My friend just bought a TX and we're going to try this

 

You're welcome. happy to hear that. I hope it helps

 

Because i now know how to send pictures here, here's another thing i did
View attachment 16496
View attachment 16497

Wheel fits to my hands better that way. It's not perfect but pretty good.
Especially it's better when drifting. When you let go the steering wheel and let it spin on it's own, there is nothing behind the wheel to hit your fingers any more.
Steering wheels buttons can be used as flappy-paddles.

Not suggesting anyone to do this to your new wheels though