T500RS --> TX / T300RS base?... And what about getting the F1 wheel?

Going to be selling my T500RS base, while keeping the stock GT rim, and the static paddles if I can find out for sure if they will work on the TX (it seems like they will from 3 or 4 things I read, but then another guy said no, hmmmm).

1. Are there any users here who are using the TX/T300RS base with T500RS experience? I keep hearing that the TX/T300RS are better in just about every way (response/reaction, smoothness, FFB detail, less damped, etc.), except raw power/torque and possibly top-speed. That all sounds great to me but I would just like some more opinions about the comparison.

2. I am probably going to get the F1 rim (even in the unlikely scenario of me sticking with the T500RS base). I hear the F1 rim is NOT smaller than the Stock T500RS GT rim (the stock T300RS, 458 GTE, and, I believe, the stock TX 458 roadcar rim are all smaller than the T500RS GT rim). If the F1 wheel is indeed the exact same diameter, than does it really make a difference other than psychologically knowing that you have that formula-type, vertically-narrow, rectangular rim? I'm guessing the more centralized weight makes a bit of a difference?

What about the total weight of the F1 rim? I know the T500RS GT rim is about 0.2 Kg lighter than the 458 GTE rim (although, on the other hand, the more spread-outwards weight of the larger diameter/circumference GT rim may offset it's lighter total weight).


P.S. I don't care about rubber vs leather vs "pleather" vs alcantara, a Ferrari sticker VS a non-Ferrari sticker, shiney metal vs dull metal, a louder or quietter fan (as long as they both cool properly), the clicking feel of all the buttons, etc. I just care about the actual FFB itself, the steering, the reactions, the pure driving experience.

Thanks...

 

I'll give you my two cents on the Tx.


FFB is very smooth and so is the wheel. I can move the wheel very quickly and have absolutely no notchiness feel.


Stock wheel is small. 275mm OD
Shifter paddles are very good with a very good positive click. They feel like they are aluminum, could be something else.
It's a plastic wheel with a kind of rubber like rim.
The buttons on it are cheap.


I use the clamp to clamp it to my desk and it's o.k. Not a great clamp, just o.k



Overall I really like the wheel, I don't plan on buying another rim for it as the stock one suits my needs well.

 

So you find the FFB better on the TX than the T500RS, ya?

 

Ya I saw their reviews, they're usually vague about FFB, not to mention, physics details though.
Regarding the static shifters, this is what I've found so far...

source --> http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/question-for-t500rs-t300rs-owners-and-static-paddles-compatability.322520/

source --> http://www.teamvvv.com/en/news/comments/Thrustmaster-announce-the-T300-RS-the-first-official-force-feedback-wheel-for-PS4

source --> http://thesimracing.com/topic/1226-thrustmaster-t300rs-price-and-release-date/

source --> http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/press/t300-rs-first-official-force-feedback-wheel-playstation-4

 

To part 2 i just want to say that the weight of the wheel (moment of inertia) really matters, especially with formula cars. I don't know anything about the F1 rim, but the stock TX 458 roadcar rim is very light compared to 458 GTE. If i compare force feedback between those two the ffb feels less detailed with the gte rim. feels like it dampens the small vibrations you get when you are on the edge of grip. Things might also feel a little bit delayed with the gte rim. that might be because it takes more time to make the little movements the rim does before the force transmitts to your hands.

So if the F1 rim is light or has well centralized weight, it might be good. The stock TX rim is very good weight wise, but to my hands it doesn't feel as comfortable as gte rim.

Yesterday i took the GTE rim apart, took the adabter part whereby the rim is attached to the base and screwd the rim of my old logitech momo to that so that the back side of the wheel is now towards driver. I think it is very good Light and comfortable.

 

I forgot to say that one problem with the stock tx wheel was that it didn't feel good for drifting. that's because the rim isn't round and because there is two different materials on the rim (rubber and plastic). There is also lot of stuff on backside of the wheel where my fingers would be during drifting.

 

Thanks, that's why I prefer the TX rim over the 458GTE (well, "on paper", I haven't actually tried them yet) because of it's increased lightness meaning more responsive FFB (similar to how the Fanatec CSR wheel is the best of their non-high-end belt-driven wheels [GT2, GT3RS, etc.] even though the motors are apparently identical between them - because of the CSR rim's increased lightness).


P.S. The guy I had been speaking to and came to an agreement with (regarding the sale of the TX) just disappeared and quit communicating with me, so it looks I'll sadly not have the TX in the next week or two. I do have the F1 rim coming in probably by next Monday though.

 

i had a TX for a day before it broke and returned for a t300 GTE.

Regarding the heavier GTE wheel= less ffb. just turn up the FFB from its default value.

The gTE wheel is a much better wheel than the TX, feels better made and more sturdy.

 

The high failure rate of the TX was what turned me away.
Just go read the reviews at Amazon.com...some guys had multiple failures in less than a few months.
In the end I went with the more reliable T500 base and 458 GTE rim... along with a set of Clubsport pedals.
It's proven a good combination and I have quite remarkable feedback.

 

One thing that has distracted me lately is that T500 doesn't seem to be that smooth with correction moves. When normally turning the car the wheel is smooth but once you slide too much and have to correct your car to regain control it feels odd (like there is steps in ffb, hard to describe it). I have profile settings of 60/100/100/0/0 (?) and using multi between 0.42-0.6 depending on car and smoothing is 0. Otherwise default settings. Anyone else having this? I have once tried G27 after I had bought T500 and G27 felt smoother to me (but it was of course much weaker wheel which to me didn't feel like a car).

 

Try 40/100/100/0/0
See how that feels.

 

I think 60 and 70 are the two most recommended values in the profile. Do you use 40? Forgot to say I also have steering torque minimum of 0.02

 

I have noticed the same thing, but i have thrustmaster TX wheel. The steps disappears when you add smoothing. I still keep my smoothing in 0 though.
I think it's a game thing. Maybe it is same kind of thing you would feel when turning steering wheel while car doesn't move, but for some reason same kind of thing happens even on the move.

 

I never feel a step/incremental style of notches in my T500RS. I feel strong FFB kicking the wheel about according to what's happening in-game but I can honestly say that I've never experienced what you're describing.

 

I could try to describe it more precise later on when I experience it again. In my opinion the wheel should feel smooth all the time (except when you have bad flatspots). The thing I feel in ffb is like hitting a soft wall when making quick correction moves (maybe regaining grip ffb is too strong?)

 

I've hit that sometimes too. It almost feels like the wheel is smooth and free but then you all of a sudden seem to hit a soft wall made out of water or mud and you need to sort of power through that with your wheel correction. If that's what you're talking about, then it seems like it's almost as if the driver (us) is correcting to suddenly and quickly relative to what the wheel's FFB is actually doing, almost as if you are trying to go ahead of the FFB itself. It's like if you're reacting accordingly to the correction needed on the screen, but the FFB is not, it's like the FFB is just a bit behind. Not input lag, but just the FFB motor possibly being behind.

Have you tried Paul's settings? I get less of this with his settings.

Again, I think it's as if the FFB motor isn't ready to accelerate/respond fast enough for how quick and how much you correct the car.

Very difficult to say if it's a FFB motor issue, or a software issue (RF2). Maybe both?

Anyway, give Paul Loatman's exact settings a shot if you haven't already. It uses the T500RS settings at control-panel 100%. The T300RS/TX settings at 100% are probably equivalent to the T500RS settings at around 85%, so you may need to add a bit of STM to your FFB relative to paul's settings, and probably use higher per-car multis as well.

 

I take your explanation, but it's hard to believe it couldn't be better. It's not that annoying that I wouldn't enjoy T500, but sometimes I hope more from it. Fiddling too much with control settings isn't my thing. I trust ISI's judgement on how everything is supposed to feel more than my own instinct. And I'm not after very strong forces, more smooth and dynamic is my thing.

Thanks for the help anyway

 

You're welcome but I'm not sure I understand your reply. I was trying to explain what I sometimes feel as an issue with my wheel and if that is the same feeling you were describing since you also say that it only happens sometimes when you correct the wheel, and as if you hit a sort-of soft wall.

I am not trying to direct you towards very strong forces as opposed to smooth and dynamic, don't worry . I'm just speaking directly about the issue you described since it seems to be exactly what I sometimes feel (a soft wall during some wheel corrections here and there). That is why I mentioned Paul Loatman's FFB settings, since they seemed to help with this issue of mine, and if my issue is the same one you describe, then it may help you as well.

You need to try Paul's FFB settings though in order to feel this particular improvement I mentioned. Don't be afraid of the FFB being raised to !00% as opposed to 60% because the in-game settings compensate for that (as well as your preference of per-car multi FFB). So the higher 100% FFB setting does not mean it will be more powerful and less smooth and dynamic than before, that's why you need to use Paul's FFB settings to match. They are listed here

 

Sorry I wasn't clear enough. I think I feel the same thing as you described. I will be driving at the weekend so I will pay attention to this thing. Thanks for Paul's settings, will try them out if needed.

 

Nice , good luck and give it a shot. Remember, you can save the controller file, just name it "Paul settings" or something, that way you can easily load it up quickly, sadly though, you still need to exit the game to change the Thrustmaster control panel settings or else the in-game FFB will be dead once you alt-tab back in.