Sim Racing servo ffb systems : OSW & Bodnar

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Adrianstealth, Jun 1, 2015.

  1. metalnwood

    metalnwood Registered

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    You are correct on all of your maths but I would probably do it the same way as thenic123 for future upgrades.

    My build was based on the argon, before the ioni was about. Now, the only thing in my system that I could think to upgrade would be the motor. If I want to do that, depending on the motor I might be forced to drop the Argon and go with an ioni.

    So if I was to do it again I would go with the ioni HC so I know I wont have to replace that if $$ and motors think I need something more than the mige.

    It sounds like sine encoders could be a possibility for us in the future, that and a kollemorgan could make me think of going that way and the HC would be ready.
     
  2. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    That's fair enough i guess, to leave the door open for possible future upgrades with larger motors without having to replace the driver.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 24, 2016
  3. thenic123

    thenic123 Registered

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    Nah I'm not on iracing
     
  4. metalnwood

    metalnwood Registered

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    I will do a bit of a trawl through the threads for you tomorrow but I would say that if you can get an intro 3 month trial that the iracing forums are the bible for OSW builds. Lots of help, lots of aussies and lots of info.
     
  5. nikdek69

    nikdek69 Registered

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    guys, for all of you thinking that the small mige is not powerful enough, AKA "weak", you're wrong

    The small mige if setted at max torque, is UN-USABLE, waaaay to strong,
    no one uses that thing at max torque.

    If you're planning the HC for future upgrades like the Kollmorgens, well, that's another story, those are simply "better"

    Nicola
     
  6. Korva7

    Korva7 Registered

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    :D:D That's what i have been thinking too.

    Btw. Something strange happened today. I have argon small mige set and i have been complaining about "sand in gears" feeling and for need to use lots of filtering and low btw to remove that feeling. Today i was able to drop overall filter from 15 to 2. Before, that would have made the ffb feel very bad. I have no idea what caused this improvement.
     
  7. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Maybe some EMI that is no longer around? Can you think of anything that may have changed?
     
  8. Korva7

    Korva7 Registered

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    I tried to think that but wasn't able to come up with any. Only thing chanced is putting keyboard/mouse stick to an other usb port.
    If i think it now, I can't really be 100% sure if the chance was just in my head or not. Maybe i just was too sensitive about something last time i was testing settings.

    About settings: I played gsc, liked ffb of it, and found that it uses both damping and friction resistance at the same time. For some reason on rf2 you have to choose which one you use, but can't use both. I left damping on in rf2 setting and used friction from Mmos settings so i could have both at the same time like in gsc.
    I would recomend to try this if you haven't yet. Atleast i liked it, and my setting are now: 1,8% friction from Mmos and from rF2 json, damping resistance at 0,4 and saturation 0,1.
    Edit: Damping and friction filters was set to 25.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 24, 2016
  9. Marek Lesniak

    Marek Lesniak Car Team Staff Member

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    26Nm can be quite weak... if used with a steering wheel, with a radius big enough for example ;-) Please, provide more info about the setup used for testing (what steering wheel and FFB strenght vs torque output from a sim).
     
  10. Andrew_WOT

    Andrew_WOT Registered

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    Small Mige, I can survive may be a lap or two with MMos around 50%, when using 12.7a in Granity (20Nm), but no more.
    300mm rim, AC with maximized ffb dynamic range, i.e. just occasional clipping on curbs.
    My typical settings are at 33% MMos.
    And I am far from pencil neck type of guy. :)
     
  11. nikdek69

    nikdek69 Registered

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    theory theory

    I have the small Mige with Ioni Pro, set at 75% in MMOS and, about, at 40-50% in most games, if you set both at 100% you can, maybe, drive for a couple of corners before ripping your skin out of the hands ;)

    According to most people that had a run in most OSW systems, Mige (small and big), Lenze, and the Kollmorgen, the small Mige is by far the best bang for the bucks (better if paired with the 5000 CPR encoder), if money grows in your garden go with the Kollmorgens, AKM52/53, these will provide the absolute best in the market

    :)
    Nicola
     
  12. Andrew_WOT

    Andrew_WOT Registered

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    As far as torque goes, Small Mige is what 99.99% mere mortal will ever need. Of course, if you are result of some secret military lab experiment, things might change. :)
    100% literally feels like trying to turn standing asphalt roller w/o power steering.
     
  13. Marek Lesniak

    Marek Lesniak Car Team Staff Member

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    I made that comment on purpose ;-) Several things affect, how much torque you actually feel with your hands.
    12.7A in Granity software (I presume, the value for MCC and MMC parameters) is expressed as POS, so RMS would be about 9A, which, indeed gives about 20Nm for the motor. 50% of that, is ~10Nm and whatever you use in AC (telemetry output - that's what is useful - to know how much % of 100% FFB is sent to the driver at particular moment on a track), probably gives even less torque on your steering wheel. 33% of ~20Nm is about 6.5Nm max, so not a lot, actually.
     
  14. davidporeilly

    davidporeilly Registered

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    I took the plunge today.
    Confirmed my order for the Small Mige/Ioni1x kit from Ollie. 20nm is plenty for me. I have 7nm now and dont have it to full power with a formula rim. Also I like the idea of the lower rotating mass in the mige (for I hope finer response). The 5000 dpr encoder is standard now so thats doubled since the early tests.

    It will arrive this week ( have been on the wait list).
    I will be using my Fanatec Formula rim which I like a lot. (its 22 functions negates any need for a button box), Chipping it with the £50 Bodnar chip and using a 50mm-70mm wheel adapter for a fixed install.

    I will soon learn what partially assembled means to my humble DIY skills. Although I did a soldering repair on my pedals this week.

    Total cost (allowing £200 for my wheel) £1228.

    Will keep you posted.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 26, 2016
  15. nikdek69

    nikdek69 Registered

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    excellent, you'll see how much is 20nm at 100% ;)

    Nicola
     
  16. Andrew_WOT

    Andrew_WOT Registered

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    I do not think loss is that big with 100% gain in game, wouldn't it demand 100% out of the driver if you clip.
    For the reference CSW v2 max torque is 7.3nm. 10nm is a lot.
    What wheel do you use and what settings?
     
  17. jkn87

    jkn87 Registered

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    after reading thousands of posts in brute force project thread, barry comparison thread and other threads including this and judging by spinelli's indecission ;) to make an order (i believe he finally ordered one to ollie) I did an order by email to tomo today (i am from spain) so i will let you know how it goes on.
     
  18. Led566

    Led566 Registered

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    You'll be more than happy with your choice.

    Just a caveat about the Formula rim mod.
    Definitely NOT easy.
    I recommend to appoint the desoldering/soldering job to someone VERY experienced with the right tools (i.e. temp controlled soldering gun etc.).
    I'm tolding you this because, while I was able to entirely realize my OSW from scratch, I was unsuccesful with the formula rim mod, and, at the moment, I have a broken Bodnar board AND a broken Formula rim motherboard sitting in my garage...:mad:
     
  19. davidporeilly

    davidporeilly Registered

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    Thanks for the tip.
    It seems from my reading that one guy who has done many of them no longer bothers with the tricky de soldering-soldering process. It's explained here. I think I need to see it all in the flesh to follow why its not necessary but based on what you said I will try that first.
    http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/1...ck-release-on-the-fanatec-formula-rim/?page=2
     
  20. Led566

    Led566 Registered

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    Yes, the method explained by razorsimon is absolutely the best way to do it.
    I figured the same but it was TOO LATE.
    Problem for me was that the mod is badly engineered and poorly explained in the instruction pdf.
     

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