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Simulation_Player said:
i guessing this happens during turn-in because thats more typical of porsche especially at high speed.

  • higher preload could help a bit
  • brake bias more towards front
  • less front toe out (more positive value) and/or more rear toe in(i don't recommend this tbh, will wear rear faster)
  • higher rear wing will help most.
  • softer rear ARB or stiffer front ARB (although stiffer front arb will make car more reactive initially)
  • lower rear ride height
there not a lot of adjustment on porsche cup(especially supercup version). This car is basically , learn to adapt or forget about it.
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Got ya, I'll test these out and report back
 
eRacer_ said:
Got ya, I'll test these out and report back
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On the subject of diffs. Visualizing what the diff is doing is the best help! So you can help yourself quickly.

That is with a Porsche GTE on Spa.
Anything on the chart in red means a locked diff, other colors mean it's an open diff.
 

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Simulation_Player said:
Watch this very detailed video from physics dev from kunos (assetto corsa) , u will figure it out afterwards....hopefully :) >>

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Aris got too much wrong on this, but could explain why the differential-behavior in ACC was so very wrong for many years and still differs from rF2 and other titles. Not the locked, but with the open differential the torque-split is always 50/50, but this is certainly not giving you oversteer on power in high-speed-corners, because the outside wheel has more friction and more travel to accomplish and so demands more power and torque. LSDs provide better cornering capabilities because once the lateral grip changes to the outside wheel so does the torque on throttle. An open diff still provides half the torque to the inside wheel that demands only a fraction of it.

A locked differential only provides a 50/50 torque split if you drive completely straight with matching lateral grip. If one wheel is stuck and the other in the air, the torque split is 100/0 obviously and that's why they are so powerful in offroad conditions. With an open diff it's still 50/50, but if the friction is 0 on one wheel (in a perfect world without internal friction and mass intertia of components), there is 0 torque applied and so 0 on the wheel that's stuck while the power just heats up the engine, components and spinning the free wheel.

The preload (screw) is just the value of how much both diff-sides are locking together with the wrench. It provides stability in high-speed corners, but that doesn't mean understeer. Open diff cars can easily snap oversteer off throttle during corners, but that doesn't mean they oversteer in fast corners. They can only oversteer while lifting and coasting and happens in slower and fast corners.

To my knowledge GT3-teams can change the internal differential clutches as they like, but it needs to be disassembled completely, so can't be done on the fly during testing unlike the preload. But it can be done between the days on race-weekends and cars like the Porsche GT3 R in rF2 doesn't even allow preload-changes, which is BS. I even saw a video how they changed the diff-plates and preload in the Porsche GT3 R, but it got deleted or can't find it anymore.
 
Leynad said:
Aris got too much wrong on this, but could explain why the differential-behavior in ACC was so very wrong for many years and still differs from rF2 and other titles. Not the locked, but with the open differential the torque-split is always 50/50, but this is certainly not giving you oversteer on power in high-speed-corners, because the outside wheel has more friction and more travel to accomplish and so demands more power and torque. LSDs provide better cornering capabilities because once the lateral grip changes to the outside wheel so does the torque on throttle. An open diff still provides half the torque to the inside wheel that demands only a fraction of it.

A locked differential only provides a 50/50 torque split if you drive completely straight with matching lateral grip. If one wheel is stuck and the other in the air, the torque split is 100/0 obviously and that's why they are so powerful in offroad conditions. With an open diff it's still 50/50, but if the friction is 0 on one wheel (in a perfect world without internal friction and mass intertia of components), there is 0 torque applied and so 0 on the wheel that's stuck while the power just heats up the engine, components and spinning the free wheel.

The preload (screw) is just the value of how much both diff-sides are locking together with the wrench. It provides stability in high-speed corners, but that doesn't mean understeer. Open diff cars can easily snap oversteer off throttle during corners, but that doesn't mean they oversteer in fast corners. They can only oversteer while lifting and coasting and happens in slower and fast corners.

To my knowledge GT3-teams can change the internal differential clutches as they like, but it needs to be disassembled completely, so can't be done on the fly during testing unlike the preload. But it can be done between the days on race-weekends and cars like the Porsche GT3 R in rF2 doesn't even allow preload-changes, which is BS. I even saw a video how they changed the diff-plates and preload in the Porsche GT3 R, but it got deleted or can't find it anymore.
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interesting information mate, very nice to read.
 
Simulation_Player said:
interesting information mate, very nice to read.
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Thanks and I wanted to post another false video of a bigger YouTube-channel who got it wrong as well (even he knows everything about engines) and I had some discussion with him, but he has deleted his version 1 with the comment " The previous version was deleted as it had some misleading things in it. I also regret being a bit stubborn when defending the merits of my previous explanation, and although it did have some merit it was ultimately misleading and some parts were outright incorrect."
So that's version 2 and it's accurate this time:

One thing I have to add to the Miata-example. According to a BMW E36 Cup driver (150 hp) they would all weld their open diffs if it's allowed, but it isn't...
 
Leynad said:
Thanks and I wanted to post another false video of a bigger YouTube-channel who got it wrong as well (even he knows everything about engines) and I had some discussion with him, but he has deleted his version 1 with the comment " The previous version was deleted as it had some misleading things in it. I also regret being a bit stubborn when defending the merits of my previous explanation, and although it did have some merit it was ultimately misleading and some parts were outright incorrect."
So that's version 2 and it's accurate this time:

One thing I have to add to the Miata-example. According to a BMW E36 Cup driver (150 hp) they would all weld their open diffs if it's allowed, but it isn't...
Click to expand...
I know this channel, fantastic videos this guy posts.
 
Added base setups for newer GT3's. These ones should be a base to balance every car, not the fastest setups but a good base to work with your driving style and better than default setups attached with cars.
They are did with fully fuel for endurance race, so don't use as aggressive hotlap. In some cases if you want to remove some fuel, maybe you should change some aero balance. Most setups could do well in a lot of tracks, maybe better with more downforce or less if you race at Monza or Lemans.
I added now Ferrari 488, Aston Martin Vantage, Audi 2019, McLaren 720S and Mercedes AMG
In next days I will add BMW M4, Porsche 911 GT3R and Bentley 2020
 
Miquel Ramos said:
Added base setups for newer GT3's. These ones should be a base to balance every car, not the fastest setups but a good base to work with your driving style and better than default setups attached with cars.
They are did with fully fuel for endurance race, so don't use as aggressive hotlap. In some cases if you want to remove some fuel, maybe you should change some aero balance. Most setups could do well in a lot of tracks, maybe better with more downforce or less if you race at Monza or Lemans.
I added now Ferrari 488, Aston Martin Vantage, Audi 2019, McLaren 720S and Mercedes AMG
In next days I will add BMW M4, Porsche 911 GT3R and Bentley 2020
Click to expand...
thank you very much my friend, i love ferrari but with the default configurations it is undriveable, however the mercedes setup is not there. bye
 
@Miquel Ramos Cheers for the base setup for the AMG in SPA. It'll serve as a starting point for me (who is learning about setups). Until now, there's not been much out there for the older AMG GT3 model.
S!
 
Not sure this is the right place, but I bought the Toyota hypercar recently and Im having some problems setting up my suspension at Sebring.

Main problem is the rear bouncing around I think, in the first and last turn it tends to snap oversteer during braking (BB is already on front) and send me into the barrier.
Already tried more rear wing but that doesnt seem to solve it so Im thinking its in the suspension?

Any tips or setups I can use?
 
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Miquel Ramos said:
Added base setups for newer GT3's. These ones should be a base to balance every car, not the fastest setups but a good base to work with your driving style and better than default setups attached with cars.
They are did with fully fuel for endurance race, so don't use as aggressive hotlap. In some cases if you want to remove some fuel, maybe you should change some aero balance. Most setups could do well in a lot of tracks, maybe better with more downforce or less if you race at Monza or Lemans.
I added now Ferrari 488, Aston Martin Vantage, Audi 2019, McLaren 720S and Mercedes AMG
In next days I will add BMW M4, Porsche 911 GT3R and Bentley 2020
Click to expand...

Thank you Miguel! Will there be one for the recent 992?
 
The_Bad_Fasterd said:
Not sure this is the right place, but I bought the Toyota hypercar recently and Im having some problems setting up my suspension at Sebring.

Main problem is the rear bouncing around I think, in the first and last turn it tends to snap oversteer during braking (BB is already on front) and send me into the barrier.
Already tried more rear wing but that doesnt seem to solve it so Im thinking its in the suspension?

Any tips or setups I can use?
Click to expand...
I'm not a setup genius, but Sebring usually requires softer springing for those bumps, that and finish your braking before you reach them.
 
Hi, recently i have been driving the yellow Ruf. have forgotten how good i feel, driving that car in Rfactor 2.
I have been fiddling with the setup, but I not good at that, even if i feel that the car with my recent setup, does not understeer so much, but i still not satisfied.

I ask, the car is old, have not been updated, maybe the problem is the tires ?! anyone with a setup to try to solve the great understeer ?
 
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