Released Released | Formula Pro

Discussion in 'News & Notifications' started by Paul Jeffrey, Jul 1, 2021.

  1. lagg

    lagg Registered

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    The real F1 pilots use simulators to train, that's right.
    To drive a current F1 means to change differential, brake balance, MGU-K Delivery and MGU-K Recovery and the MGU-H setting (or change between different hybrid presets). And off course use the steering wheel, gearbox and pedals.
    The acceleration and brake power changes depending on the hybrid settings.
    What are they going to train if the simulator doesn't have the hybrid system implemented?
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2022
  2. hitm4k3r

    hitm4k3r Registered

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    Simulators aren't just for driver training. They are used to prepare car setups for the real racetrack before teams go to racetracks and as more and more data get's collected the more the setups get adjusted based on data from the simulator. There is alot of exchange going on between the team at the factory and the team at a racetrack during a single weekend. So yeah, they can propably simulate alot of stuff inluding hybrid systems, brake systems or engine settings.
     
  3. MikeV710

    MikeV710 Registered

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    Yes I can relate to that although my post had to do more with some asking for the addition of porpoising, which Is really not something that every team Is doing alike, and the fact that each team Is coming out with different solutions.

    I guess I explained myself wrong, although right now both hybrid and porpoising are related due to what the new regulations are. So one without the other Is still a hándicap In the sense of a proper RL simulation.
     
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  4. davehenrie

    davehenrie Registered

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    I think a lot of the setups are created without using the mechanical simulator, at least at first. The engineers come up with various values based on whatever data they have. THEN the moving, bouncing, shaking cockpit sim is used to fine tune the car for both pace and driver accommodation.
     
  5. Simulation_Player

    Simulation_Player Registered

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  6. Uff

    Uff Registered

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    Thanks to the current sales I finally managed to purchase this car, as I kept under my radar for quite a long time.
    Driving it at Spa I noticed it is very easy to spin it when exiting a turn at low speeds (think about the last chicane before of entering the starting grid straight).
    Do you have any setup suggestion on how to mitigate this, to start with?
     
  7. Simulation_Player

    Simulation_Player Registered

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    softer rear ARB, softer rear springs, more rear wing.
    TBH , this car has 800hp engine in it...so it is better to adapt throttle technique for it than relying on setup.
    In general if u rely too much on setup to get around inherit "issues" in any car, u will end up with a car that is slow and will not make u better driver, just my advice.
     
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  8. Uff

    Uff Registered

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    I'll give it a try, thanks. I did only half an hour today, so I still have to learn the car for sure.
     
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  9. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    Only just got the car myself and haven't yet driven it, but as general advice in addition to the above, if you can lower the power lock (diff) and lower the rear slow bump damping it'll usually help a bit. But as Sim_Player says, often these should be seen as temporary aids to help you adapt to the car, as the fastest way to set up a car is for it to be pretty pointy. The more stable setup is to allow you more on-track time to practice with it, rather than falling off all the time :)

    (reducing diff power lock will tend to spin up the inside rear tyre, which gives you more time to react rather than the back end immediately breaking away, but it will cost you acceleration)
     
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  10. Simulation_Player

    Simulation_Player Registered

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    A suggestion for this car >
    add traction lights for this car, very cool and useful thing of modern era race cars.
    since this is a fantasy car and i see some redundant steering wheel lights used for rpm , so this is good utilization.
    ofcourse i don't want you (S397) to add TC and ABS to this car, just traction lights which works on cars which don't have driving assist (like 992 cup).
     
  11. IL_VIDDI

    IL_VIDDI Registered

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    Does anyone know the Ideal brakes/tyres temperatures of this car?
     
  12. Simulation_Player

    Simulation_Player Registered

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    for brake temp i don't know, maybe do some test runs and see how brakes react to temp. brake temp is available live on HUD.

    for tyre temp , I personally just ignore the the temps and look at tyre wear instead. after 5 to 7 laps you get decent wear pattern ONLY if you are consistent enough with driving. this tells me which axel and which corner is getting overworked, pretty nicely...then after i tweak it out with setup i get expected result , so its a working method for me.
    but some circuits naturally wear either front or rear more....so there setup won't help u much.
    for example, Monaco has more rear tyre wear, due to all those low speed acceleration zones, its more on driver here to manage that.
     
  13. IL_VIDDI

    IL_VIDDI Registered

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    Thanks, and how about tyre pressure? Is still there the trick to set the lowest tyre pressure possible to be faster?
     
  14. Simulation_Player

    Simulation_Player Registered

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    I ran a test on porsche RSR about tyre pressure....i understand that its different car but it is using NEW updated tyre data and same base tyre model, so not super close to fpro but worthwhile imo.

    Capture.JPG

    The colored one is >>

    Front left : 140 kpa Front right : 140 kpa
    Rear left : 140 kpa Rear right : 140 kpa

    white one >>

    Front left : 140 kpa Front right : 150 kpa
    Rear left : 140 kpa * *Rear right : 148 kpa
    (right side tyres are outside loaded ones)

    So i tested this on skidpad with ~180km/h speed and steering angle maintained as best i could.
    I wanted to have less tyre wear at front right , so decided to see if increasing pressure can cause less tyre flex which could result in less temp generation and possibly less wear .....and what i got is just that ...less wear on front right. Probably due less carcass temp and multitude of other reasons.

    ** now i explain why i increased my rear right tyre pressure to 148 kpa, initially i thought that keeping it to 140 kpa be more isolated and direct comparison, BUT when i tested with 150 kpa only on front right and kept everything to 140 kpa, the front right tyre lost too much grip as laps went on. i actually got more tyre wear on FR ....due to me, trying to maintain same trajectory and speed.
    so i had to balance out this understeer without taking out too much grip from rear, so 148 kpa at rear right seems to did that in this case, i got less understeer and less wear on FR, while keeping the rear at similar level of grip.

    P.S : i only did this test once, so result could vary or even be completely different on multiple tests.
     
  15. Robin Pansar

    Robin Pansar Member

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    Just go lowest pressures and you are good to go. This pretty much applies to every car unless the car allows for ridiculously low pressures.
     

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