Porsche 911 GT3 Cup (2018) is now available!

Discussion in 'News & Notifications' started by Christopher Elliott, Sep 27, 2019.

  1. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Registered

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    Yes, i know^^ But you can guestimate quite a bit...
    I will probably fire up i2 soon, like i said, because i want to be absolutely sure aswell, but i can tell right now, without analyzing the telemetry, that there will be no real possibility, i have about 100°C inside tyre temps...at least not after 4 x 2 min. race pace laps with a basic setup. (When the trouble starts with higher pressures)
     
  2. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    @CrimsonEminence The other end of the ranges you gave was 129-150. This requires a 30-80 change in temperature. (Or, roughly, 25-75, or 20-70, etc)

    You can't log the tyre air temperature, nor the tyre air volume, and you don't have specific data you're validating.

    The tyre model has tyre volume, changes pressure in accordance with temperature, the same as all other tyres in the game.

    There could be an issue - I don't have any data proving otherwise - but you're in danger of gathering enough data to prove something you already believe without considering what you don't (and can't) know.
     
  3. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Registered

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    I have logged a small file, yeah, there is no channel for "core" temps just the 3 surface temps per tyre, it seems, 5 laps...now with pushing a bit and driving sloppy (With a 3rd lap of 2:00:040 and following about 3-4 tenths slower or so)...70-80°C avg. surface all around in/cen/out now, it is getting higher with lap 4, leads to more slip. So under load it even increases a bit indeed.

    The car behaves well, look at my screenshot post, to test the setup by yourself. It needs 2 laps to become fast and corner friendly.
    You will notice more nervosity after lap 4, also correlating to higher temperatures, of course. At the in-lap (5) it shows about 150 Kpa warm pressure with temps between 70-80° contact temp at the graph, also peaks over 100° surface temp over a short amount of time, while locking up.
    It is nothing representable, of course, but maybe helpful, who knews:
    -click-
    tempres.png
    -click-


    I can't get numbers for the air temperature, thats right, but i can tell one thing: I have to go to low pressures (look at the setup screeshots, i've posted), to make the car drivable and stable, otherwise, it feels like all is turned up to 11, like the rear engined version of a rear engined car, that is rear engined...and i'm not the only one, encountering this.

    The car feels pretty fine and fun with extremely low cold tyre pressure and is more predictable over several laps, so better manageable after some laps. But with default values, it runs into some problems.

    So maybe there is an issue, maybe not, but we can take a look at it, at some degree...
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2019
  4. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    There are optional channels to enable in the DAMPlugin, assuming the car allows it. I don't have the car.
     
  5. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Registered

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    Ah, okay^^ I still use the old MotecPluginx64, so i'm not even up to date wilth my old stuff, it seems...I'm still using i2 Pro 1.0, because 1.1 is'n working with the ouput of this plugin.^^ Perfectly prepared, professional Sim Racing :D But i think, the MotecPlugin also has a value in the .ini for some still deactivated channels. I will try to get more data, later, if possible. :)

    So there is a discussion going on, about weird behaviour of a car, that you don't even own? You have even less data than me? :D Change it, you should get it! I hope so much i'am wrong with my assumptions, you could possibly prove me wrong. And most important the give possibility to give S397 more resources to continue making stuff :p

    (And yes, the car is difficult, but i find myself driving it more often, than i thought, it is quite fun for sprints against the AI in this sim, so a "not for everyone", but a shameless recommendation, nevertheless. There are worse ways to spend five bucks!) :D
     
  6. Connor

    Connor Registered

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    Jaysus !! Thanks For That ... The Porsche 911 "3 wheeled Shopping Trolly":confused::confused::eek::rolleyes:o_O Is a Race Car who'd have taught it .. Cheers ;):):D
     
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  7. OdeFinn

    OdeFinn Registered

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    Uuh, ooh, found this clip on YouTube:

    Then had to test it with rF2 and did this:

    Car setup is based on my "base setup", softened arbs, bit more ground clearance, click more rear toe and brake pressure. Next learning lines on here and Sebring, Sebring feels fun, without knowledge of driving lines I'm able to run it on IMSA gold pace..
     
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  8. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Registered

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    Thanks for the videos OdeFinn
    Jump to 8:22 , looks kind of just like rF2 ;)
     
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  9. Akela_DE

    Akela_DE Registered

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    This guy is cheating- he never use brakes! Aimbot for sims! And i want that pitboys/girls :D

    RealLife Lap time 1:26(/lets say 1:25) - RF2 100% AI laps a 1:23 on green track o_O
     
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  10. mesfigas

    mesfigas Registered

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    i m shocked with AI many times
    but i m not fast anyway
     
  11. Akela_DE

    Akela_DE Registered

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    Only porsche cup is to fast, thats :mad: .
    100% AI with other cars is usually between 1-3 secs to slow for me - and i am not fast either, 1-2 sec to slow for online :D
     
  12. OdeFinn

    OdeFinn Registered

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    First, I'm more than happy with Studio 397 Porsche 911/991 GT3 Cup car mod, but their stock setup should definitely be something else, even following more closely to Porsches own suggestion as "Performance Setup" would result more positive feedback from users.

    Below is just quick follow of type 1 991 performance setup (didn't bother to Google type 2 setup) from 2015.
    Edit: googled 2018 gen2/type 2, only difference is P9 wing.
    There's on active setup of "mint" condition clutch pack and on comparison side "new" condition clutch pack.
    Only difference from Porsches own suggestion is change on ride height, type 1 suggestion uses 100mm rear height and Studio 397 version allows only up to 97mm, therefore dropped both ends 3mm lower to keep same rake as Porsche suggests. All other values are close by same as suggestions from Porsche. Tire pressures are also 1:1 from suggestion, looks hard, but are actually surprisingly good.

    I would need few pairs of underwears if this was stock setup from Studio 397 on beginning, this isn't bad at all and customising this setup feels like child's play. IMO. Try it and say your opinion.

    rFactor 2(rFactor2.exe) Screenshot 2019.10.30 - 13.58.55.92.png rFactor 2(rFactor2.exe) Screenshot 2019.10.30 - 13.59.07.06.png rFactor 2(rFactor2.exe) Screenshot 2019.10.30 - 13.59.17.04.png rFactor 2(rFactor2.exe) Screenshot 2019.10.30 - 13.59.31.92.png
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2019
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  13. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Registered

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    Tyres rubber temps channel was now activated on Silverstone, i spun in the last lap at high speeds, so they are peaking there, of course.

    But i was proven wrong, in the case of temps, i was reaching rubber temps (not contact) over 100°C at the rear after/in lap 3 , i was overdriving a bit, though...the fronts are lower at around 70-83ish depending on stint duration... peak pressure before the spin was around 152 kPa...
    tempres2.png

    At hotlap pace, this car will make max. around 6 laps, before temps are going absolutely nuts...so you definetly have an advantage, by smart tyre-management.

    The low cold pressure will contribute, to result in high tyre rubber temps, but with higher cold pressure from the start, the car also feels weird again...i will probably log a stint with high cold pressure later, to see, how it goes.^^

    We have a few working setup tips now here in the thread, but the car is still not confidence building, if driven on personal limits over a longer amount of time...

    So if anyone has a suggestion for better tyre management with this slidey machine, without losing too much pace, i would be glad to read it! :D

    EDIT:
    I used the 185 F 190 R kPa values now:

    The car is basically undrivable with that, saw no reason to continue in the 3rd lap any further...even with ARB adjustments and more wing, it oversteers early and is around 1.3-2 sec. slower...rubber temps are now WAY more stable, (forgot, to shoot contact temps here, but they were a bit lower than 80°C now) but the pressure is beyond 200 kPa after 3 laps...it gets harder and harder to drive.
    tempres3.png

    EDIT2:
    "Hotlap" 2:05:819

    click me...
    Hotlap.png

    It was working best, in this condition...
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2019
  14. Stefan_L_01

    Stefan_L_01 Registered

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    Lots of words for something most know allready. Btw in gt3 mod, Silverstone needs up to 10 laps to reach final pressure.
    Some claim higher pressure results in better cooling. As far as I can say, the inside temperaure difference is very small, but you never can reach a lower final pressure in warm condition with a higher initial one.
    For stabillity I recommend to balance front pressure to rear pressure in warm condition, for high power tail heavy cars you may have to run a higher inital front pressure, assymetric usually as the front right is coolest.

    -5kpa front to rear in warm condition, >180kpa , can make allready a big difference in stabillity, and this is something I dont want to believe. +-0.05bar more or less deciding to survive or not? Think about this refilling air in your car next time! Better go out and check your car right now, it's cruicial.
    At least if you trust rf2 to be realistic...
     
  15. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Registered

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    Did you tried both pressure settings, mentioned above, by yourself in this car?^^
     
  16. Stefan_L_01

    Stefan_L_01 Registered

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    What, the 185kpa initial? Sry just laughing about. If you run with Ai, and tweak it to match your pace, feel free to use it
     
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  17. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Registered

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    I'm using cold pressure around 127 kPa front and around 115 kPa rear at Silverstone...the 185 was from a setup, posted by an user in this thread... (the first graph would make no sense, with 185 initial)


    EDIT: for clarification,
    I can keep a pace from 2:06 to 2:05 with these cold pressure values around 115-127 and the car is predictable enough...but after 6-7 laps, it is still becoming interesting on corner exits.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2019
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  18. Stefan_L_01

    Stefan_L_01 Registered

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    As I said up to 10 laps in silver to heat up.
    Before, with + 12kpa initial in the front, you run with understeer. That makes you feel confortable. I bet warm you are still front +5 or so. That means you lack car control as this is no reason for instabillity
     
  19. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Registered

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    I will do it^^

    Edit: Here we go... (5kPa difference now dialed in)
    twelve.png
    -click me-
    Nothing makes you feel comfortable with this car...
    ABSOLUTELY, almost everyone has lack of car control with this car! Give it a try, drive 10 laps and tell me, you are absolutely settled in with the Porsche GT3 Cup Car.^^
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2019
  20. OdeFinn

    OdeFinn Registered

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    Direct value quote from Porsches "performance setup", years ago Porsche used to give "cold" pressures, measured in somewhere around 22-24°c ambient. Tried setup on Atlanta and Nordschleife, on Atlanta race speed without any pushing on natural real road ~1:26. Not bad, but definitely first place to start customising.
     

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