Good point Durge, I never noticed the manufacturer. I've never had a problem with Corsair if the OP is looking for a new PSU.
You wont do any harm reversing the poles but it is possible if you connect the front panel power switch onto the wrong pins you could, not saying you have. Bit hard to do your motherboard has the pwr switch pins coloured red. I am 95% leaning towards the PSU. Just a few things other things, did the CPU seat no problems onto the motherboard and likewise the CPU cooler. ? +1 Corsair CX-600 Modular 80+ Bronze or similar, that may seem overkill for a GTX660 OC but the more headroom per dollar the better. More headroom, less power, less heat, more stable voltages and regulation, longer life..........1 or all could possibly be good consequence for spending a few more dollars on a PSU. He could do with even less depending on if the chip is a "K" and/or he intends to overclock and/or what processor cooling he has.
Good morning , a new PSU ay , hmm I hope that's not the case , I really over spent buying this . I will try Jamie's suggestion first as it's a cheaper option but if that fail's a new PSU it is . I'd like to see some signs of life out of it before investing more , I was hoping not to get a new PSU until I could afford to upgrade the GPU . I just gotta wait a few hours for this excrutiating pain to settle in my hip/back before I start playing with it again , i'll keep you updated , Thanx for the input DD EDIT: Yes the CPU and fan seemed to seat nicely .
It is possible to "hotwire" a PSU without it being plugged in just to check it works. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-power-up-an-ATX-Power-Supply-without-a-PC/ You say that the lights on the GPU come on, this gives the impression that the PSU is ok so maybe it is the switch. You could try could be touching a screwdriver or jumper or something across the two power button pins on the mobo to check if it is the front switch thats not broken. Personally I have never had any problems with home builds so I'm no expert. I will say that I ran my old PC with a cheap 700w PSU for years with no problems, obviously it is better to have an 80plus one apparently, but its one of those intangible benefits that its hard to justify spending money on.
Ok , firstly i'd like to thank all for your input , but unfortunately/fortunately it was user error , note to self , get some better specs and don't drink too much when using oxycodone (bad back and hip are stuffed) and don't try to assemble a pc if I do . With a fresh look today I had the on/off wires on the wrong pins The board did work with the 4 pin power but I most definitely will get an 8 pin adaptor , thanx for that suggestion . Also I will upgrade my PSU at some time , most probably when I upgrade my GPU thanx DD . Sorry for waisting your time guy's , the hardest issues to try and fix is when user error is involved and I was sure I had it wired correctly . Never the less I've learnt a fair bit from this and thanx all for your input
Why I sort of pointed out the power switch pins are RED hoping you would double check. Actually I got that wrong Gigabyte power pins are RED I think your motherboard they are all black. Anyway either way that PSU is " sub standard" IE: It can't meet basic requirements of the other components, just fact. Yes it will run that is not the point, the dual power ( 8 pin ) esp when overclocking limits the power dissipated at the individual pins to the motherboard and reduces the current per pair of wires. Cheaper PSU tend to have thinner wires so it is best if the current is halved where possible. Problem with cheaper PSU under load the voltages can fluctuate, if you test yours and it is within tolerances, not running hot it should be fine. You may think voltages are not doing anything but they it can lead to motherboard components like resistors / capacitors failing. I would say repairs / PSU replacements ........... Generic PSU vs Quality PSU would be 10:1 Download MSI afterburner and HWINFO , you can run tests realtime in rF2 fullscreen windowed mode. http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...ly-needed-now!?p=282291&viewfull=1#post282291 Check the VCore, +12v , +3.3v and +5v readings for fluctuations while idle and full load.
Hehe ye silly me . ye all the wires are black and I was confused about the neg/pos , I was only 1 pin to the left wrong ( need better glasses maybe a set like in DD'S avatar ) and sorta read the instructions wrong , thanx for the extra info DD , I kinda knew that the PSU was a worry but I had a spare PSU ,case and HDD and what started out as spare parts to build a pc for my nephews to use ,I ended up replacing everything except the PSU , LOL I didn't mind so much cos I ended up with a half descent pc .I will definitly replace it in the future
