14 years ago I only raced rFactor 1 in a league with a G25. So much has changed (for the better!), but I miss my league's help for the new guys. So far, I have LMU and rFactor 2 installed but I cannot get rFactor 2's wheel to not slam to the left on race start. I have steering help off, (I didn't know that until I read it here), I have centered and calibrated but I don't think I clicked "set" while holding the wheel max left and max right. I also read about deleting the json controller file. The problem, strange for me, is I don't know where LMU and rFactor are hiding. I've never installed anything from Steam and imagine it has a special place for the installations. Search can't find it. I'm sure it's obvious once you know, but without my teamspeak league helper, I can't figure out the secret hiding place. Where are the installations? (this feels so dumb asking that)
On race start wheel turns hard left and won't move...have calibrated (incorrectly?)
- Thread starter Simgeezer
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- rfactor 2 wheel settings
You might need to reverse the FFB.
Lazza
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Check the FFB strength as Coutie said (you can set it from -100 to +100, so if it's above zero make it below zero, or vice-versa - and while I'm here, consider a value around 80 to reduce clipping in most content as a starting point, a bit lower again if you have a more powerful wheel. You can adjust individual cars as needed with the "vehicle specific" setting).
Generally there's no need to set left/right/centre manually, and I think often people get themselves into trouble by playing with those, but reassigning steer left and steer right can help reset those.
Should you continue to have input issues and want to reset as you've read, your game is likely installed under program files\steam\etc etc; easiest way to find out is open up steam, go to your library, right-click rF2 and go to properties, then local files. There's a button there to open the game folder/files. It's a few clicks but it'll get you there.
But as above, probably not necessary to delete the controller.json at this point.
Thanks for the information. I have searched every menu in settings many times and I can find reverse ffb in LMU, but I can't find it in rF2. I suspect that is the problem since I haven't seen it yet so unless reverse ffb is a default setting it's incorrect. Where can I find it? Also, I installed Steam on a separate nvme so that's where the steam "library" is located. I should have figured out that one.
Reversing the JSON setting seems to be the only answer I could find. BTW, Steam was not listed in programs. Guess where Microsoft hid it? Under program files\ Common Files not Steam. Is it because I installed it on "E" drive?
"Find the setting: Look for a line containing "Steering Effects Strength": followed by a number (usually 10000 for Logitech wheels).Reverse the value: Change the value after the colon to its negative counterpart (e.g., from 10000 to -10000).
(Is that correct?) Thanks
"Find the setting: Look for a line containing "Steering Effects Strength": followed by a number (usually 10000 for Logitech wheels).Reverse the value: Change the value after the colon to its negative counterpart (e.g., from 10000 to -10000).
(Is that correct?) Thanks
Yes, that should be correct.
Lazza
Registered
At the start of my post, I explained FFB Strength.
I found, and set ffb to -70 (I have a strong 22nm wheelbase) and the same thing happened when I hit "race". I engaged 1st and pulled out of garage and it would only turn right, not left and ran into the pit out wall. I appreciate the help, very much, because this time I don't have a league helper to get me set up and troubleshoot. Otherwise, when these attempts don't work, that person could ask "did you do this first, or how is the (blank) set?" There is obviously something missing that I haven't been able to tell you so you would know "why" going to minus ffb didn't work.
Why after decades are these installation problems not fixed? The industry has not worked to fix the chronic configuration issues that continue to haunt "regular" users who are not fluent in the back-end of windows and software files. I'm mostly just a "user" and only learn the part I need to know to get the task done.
I have worked with json files in tweaking rF1 before, and after finding the rF2 controller json file, I changed the value there to -10000 I believe. It didn't work. I put it back to it's default. After doing this I gave up and went back to LMU which was working but now didn't. It stopped working this way: On "race" 1st gear doesn't engage but neutral does and car will roll a foot or so , there is no sound, but I can see the red on the dial for throttle move around the dial when I press the pedal.
I didn't know how to make this shorter and still explain how it's not working so perhaps someone (Razza thank you, I suspect you could fix this if you were here in 5 minutes) will have an answer I can make work without immediate feedback. I'm 76, did this build myself..alone..including my open loop tower with 3 rads and 10 rgb fans. Yet I'm now completely dead in the water after 5 months construction and don't forget the thousands spent to get this far. Depressing
Why after decades are these installation problems not fixed? The industry has not worked to fix the chronic configuration issues that continue to haunt "regular" users who are not fluent in the back-end of windows and software files. I'm mostly just a "user" and only learn the part I need to know to get the task done.
I have worked with json files in tweaking rF1 before, and after finding the rF2 controller json file, I changed the value there to -10000 I believe. It didn't work. I put it back to it's default. After doing this I gave up and went back to LMU which was working but now didn't. It stopped working this way: On "race" 1st gear doesn't engage but neutral does and car will roll a foot or so , there is no sound, but I can see the red on the dial for throttle move around the dial when I press the pedal.
I didn't know how to make this shorter and still explain how it's not working so perhaps someone (Razza thank you, I suspect you could fix this if you were here in 5 minutes) will have an answer I can make work without immediate feedback. I'm 76, did this build myself..alone..including my open loop tower with 3 rads and 10 rgb fans. Yet I'm now completely dead in the water after 5 months construction and don't forget the thousands spent to get this far. Depressing
Lazza
Registered
@Simgeezer when the wheel pulls to one side it's likely one of two things:
So if it's -70 now, you'd change it to +70.
And, if it were 70 now, you'd make it -70.
(FFB Strength in the game)
This concept applies to nearly all cars you'll drive. There are some that actually pull the wheel at rest or low speed, but in rF2 it's unlikely you've managed to pick one of those.
If you do the test above and the wheel is constantly pushing in one direction (e.g. it pulls when turning left, and pushes when turning right) you probably have a calibration or other device related issue, rather than inverted FFB.
- Inverted FFB
- More serious calibration or device detection issue
- First, consider reducing your wheel strength a bit (outside the game) so you aren't having to muscle it around so much.
- Jump in a car and without moving, turn the wheel a little to the left. See if it pushes against you, or pulls the wheel further around.
- Now bring the wheel back to centre and then turn it slightly to the right. Again, see if it pushes against you or pulls in the same direction.
So if it's -70 now, you'd change it to +70.
And, if it were 70 now, you'd make it -70.
(FFB Strength in the game)
This concept applies to nearly all cars you'll drive. There are some that actually pull the wheel at rest or low speed, but in rF2 it's unlikely you've managed to pick one of those.
If you do the test above and the wheel is constantly pushing in one direction (e.g. it pulls when turning left, and pushes when turning right) you probably have a calibration or other device related issue, rather than inverted FFB.
I checked everything twice, set 10nm on wheelbase racehub software (not recommended 22 (-40%). I think they mean 22nm out of game and set in game configuration at -40% (or personal value?) When I clicked into race the wheel slammed to the right stop hard...hit my thumb and hurt 2nd time. If I turn far left against the pressure, the wheels only go to center. In controller json ffb is -7000 the same as LMU. ???
Lazza
Registered
Delete the controller.json.
Restart rF2. Set your controls if you need to (assign Steer Left and Steer Right). The axis should be configured properly at that point.
Don't go editing .json files unless you really need to, and don't use the Set Center, Set Max L, Set Max R buttons. You don't need to.
It should look like this, with a V shape behind it. I've steered part way right here, showing the V fills with blue as you move the wheel.
View attachment upload_2024-5-8_20-25-59.png
If there's no V, it's broken. Reassigning the steering and maybe using the center/set buttons can help, but a new controller.json will take out any wrong entries.
I sent a plea to Asetek and got a pdf of what I had already set with one new exception. Instead of 80 it should be -80. THAT is the "reverse force feedback" setting location. Not called "Reverse Force Feedback" as a slider on off in LMU which is what I was looking for and not finding all week. I had no way to know that there actually "WAS" a way to reverse it in the regular settings but because no one had informed me or labeled where you reverse the force feedback and that it wasn't called reverse force feedback as in LMU (which led me to not look for another place or name it would be called. I didn't suspect it "wouldn't" be called reverse force feedback as LMU had trained me to expect that setting label. I wish I had known this earlier as none of this back and forth and taking your time would have been necessary plus causing me to pull out hair for a week. 
So I changed the setting to -80 and I had no force feedback at all. The wheel just turned freely. I now have to find the other settings that are incorrect. I will copy the pdf they sent me with their settings shown. If you would be so kind, please have a quick peek and let me know if you notice any Asetek errors? Here is the line that showed me the definition mistake.
"As a last note you need to reverse the force feedback signal for it to work properly, so it should be set to -
80% instead of the standard 80%"
So I changed the setting to -80 and I had no force feedback at all. The wheel just turned freely. I now have to find the other settings that are incorrect. I will copy the pdf they sent me with their settings shown. If you would be so kind, please have a quick peek and let me know if you notice any Asetek errors? Here is the line that showed me the definition mistake.
"As a last note you need to reverse the force feedback signal for it to work properly, so it should be set to -
80% instead of the standard 80%"
Lazza
Registered
@Simgeezer I covered all that above. No offense, but if you don't read posts there's little motivation to write more.
I'm sorry there was a misunderstanding. I think I needed to start with the fact that as I had not understood ffb strength was the way to reverse force feedback instead of a setting labeled "reverse ffb" as in LMU which got me confused.
There were errors that happened even when I tried to run after actually reversing ffb. I only had simracing apps so I put Revo uninstaller to work and cleaned house down to a browser, HWiNFO, and 7-zip. Reinstalling RaceHub, Steam, rFactor 2, then SimHub, then maybe Crewchief although I haven't been able to get it working before.
When I carefully do my best to get everything perfect, I'll give it a test and report what happens.
There were errors that happened even when I tried to run after actually reversing ffb. I only had simracing apps so I put Revo uninstaller to work and cleaned house down to a browser, HWiNFO, and 7-zip. Reinstalling RaceHub, Steam, rFactor 2, then SimHub, then maybe Crewchief although I haven't been able to get it working before.
When I carefully do my best to get everything perfect, I'll give it a test and report what happens.
Everything set as Asestek (wheelbase) and in game settings then in game after calibration and brake/throttle/shift checked ok.
I hit "Drive" (I made sure not to hold it) and the wheel began violently shaking left to right in occilation. So I still have some things still to learn. I'm trying as hard as I can. Please be patient.
I hit "Drive" (I made sure not to hold it) and the wheel began violently shaking left to right in occilation. So I still have some things still to learn. I'm trying as hard as I can. Please be patient.
Lazza
Registered
If you followed the above guide (that you attached) your rF2 settings should be fine.
I don't know what Asetek settings might help oscillation, but given it's a powerful wheel some oscillation when not holding the wheel might be normal. There'll always be some balance between centre detail and oscillation.
Overshoot (oscillation) is a natural result in FFB when there are no controls or mechanical resistance placed on the servo mechanism. Filters such as Friction and / or Damping provide such control, especially with Direct-drive systems. In some cases, bases may have anti-oscillation filters within the wheel settings.
Start by applying some amount of Friction (or Damping) in the servo control software to stop the oscillation when you are hands-off.
Friction is useful to add weight to the steering feel and eliminate looseness near steering center. Damping is useful to control steering response speed as related to suspension bump reaction and self-aligning torque control.
Ideally, there should be no oscillation while driving (straight) and going hands-off.
Too much Friction can cause the steering to feel heavy. Too much Damping can make the wheel feel sluggish and without finer FFB details. The goal is to find your happy medium where things feel natural and controllable.
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Complete revo uninstall clean including registry, new wheelbase software update, plus going through each configuration and control settings fixed the issue. It was late, and I realized days before I had a failed download due to a probable corrupted file so I ""deleted the old files and reinstalled the new files, did the Steam "verification of files" and carefully mapped and configured all control settings. I wonder if it was the download, something I got incorrect in the other 3 installations that was correct this time, or something else? I do appreciate the supportive advice and procedures Lazza and others posted here and all of them were helpful in my making sure everything was correct. Thank you forum members. This old guy couldn't have done it without your support.