New Thrustmaster pedals T-LCM

Discussion in 'Off-Topic' started by Richard Busch, Feb 21, 2020.

  1. Richard Busch

    Richard Busch Member

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  2. ItsBillyFrazier

    ItsBillyFrazier Registered

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    Good review of the pedals here:
     
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  3. ADSTA

    ADSTA Registered

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    Could they have made them look any cheaper.
    I think you're out of luck if you want to mount them inverted with minimal modding.
     
  4. Richard Busch

    Richard Busch Member

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    They do look cheap. The pedal arms are cast aluminum, and there is a ballast under the heel rest to keep them from tipping over. The base is plastic. The review posted above is the best review I've seen yet.
    I think these are a test bed for a better set. T-LCM Pro perhaps. If they sell well, I assume T-LCM Pro's are next.
     
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  5. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    Oooh hello!
     
  6. ADSTA

    ADSTA Registered

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    You're fast enough and remember this!
    :p
     
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  7. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    I do remember that, but I figure a twice-as-strong spring just wasn't enough of a departure; a good solid brake pedal and 100kg load sensor might be just what I need :D (if nothing else, I think heel-toe would be more feasible)
     
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  8. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    @ADSTA Well just watched the review, and yeah, upside down or custom mounting (including horizontal) is going to take some work to do. My T3PA-pro with full metal and threaded mounts for each pedal are obviously how you'd want it, and I would imagine the speculation is right that there'll be a pro version of these that are more/full metal and will give that sort of flexibility.

    I suspect these would do me fine for my current setup, and that's a setup that's not likely to change. I think some of the brake flexing the above review talks about could be removed by using that optional 5th mounting hole to hold down the base of the brake. As far as the overall look, I realise plastic tends to look cheap but at the price point it's still a good step up from something like the logitech pedals, and making the assumption the plastic mounts are strong enough to handle the forces involved (throtle and clutch generally not much; some sideways force with heel-toe might give more, but that plastic looks pretty solid and should suffice) I'd take the hall sensors over pots and put up with the plastic.

    Simple clutch is a definite con, though many games including rF2 won't really match a mechanical bite point to what's happening in the game anyway.

    The above review is pretty good, and I believe the comments saying it's better than others, but I'm a little worried he's talked about mounting the pedals with no spacers - I wouldn't do that, ever. That's a curved pedal on a straight mount, and you're running a fine line between too much screw tension bending the pedal or too little allowing movement and scoring of the surfaces. He's also overlooked the fact that fitting the 2 stiffest springs has compressed the preload spring down to the washers without any pedal application, so there's reduced preload travel when you're running that much stiffness. Shouldn't need much with a load cell anyway.

    The 100kg is a plus point, could easily imagine getting a set with 70 and quickly wishing there was a bit more there.

    I always find it funny when resolution is talked about, I doubt 8 bit has been an issue for anything but the longest-throw pedals (throttle) and even then I doubt it makes much difference. People love numbers, and bigger numbers are better, but most on-screen input graphs are probably 500px at most, and any slight movement you make with the pedal moves 2-5 px (of course you can make a smaller movement, but as far as a deliberate conscious movement, especially if you're not staring at the input graph at the same time...). 500px / 2px = 250 steps of that size. 8 bit? 256 steps. 16 bit and 65536 steps is simple overkill.

    I'll wait and see what price these come in at over here, but I'll definitely be considering them.

    *Oh, and obviously overall travel probably could be better. Long throttle travel can be a very good thing, if difficult to adjust to based on when I've tried other's more expensive pedal sets, so that's a negative. I'll have to check around for specs vs other sets when deciding if to get them.
     
  9. ADSTA

    ADSTA Registered

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    I have a set of Heusinkveld Pro pedals and the brake pedal max force is 55kg.
    I'm not a big bloke so the 55kg is fine for me but I could easily see that wouldn't be enough for big boofheads like Paul Morris and the young generation where the average height is 6 foot.
    The Heusinkveld Ultimates had max force of 136kg but their new Sprint pedals are 65kg.
    I only watched a few minutes of the video but I hope TM don't use the load cell from the bathroom scales like someone else. Fantastic idea that was.
    What would be a good idea for this style of pedal TM are releasing is to make a simple protective boot to go around the pedal shaft and cover the rectangle base. Like a handbrake boot. Keep all the junk out.

    Long pedal travel is great for throttle. In rF2 I have my throttle sensitivity at about 70% so that it's not so twitchy when applying the power.
    My clutch though, I cranked it up to 200% so the bite range when the pedal is depressed has got more pedal travel and is not so much like a on/off button.
     
  10. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    @ADSTA yeah, did the same with my clutch to help pull it off the floor a little. But it's that game-dependent implementation that puts me off a clutch pedal with its own mechanism, as there's no guarantee it'll match what the game is doing (and then, it's more than a waste of time - it's probably a hindrance). Of course the accompanying software might be able to sort that out, too. I imagine Heusinkveld might have gone to that trouble?

    "keeping the junk out" came to mind, for sure. It's fine that the hall sensor means no physical contact and no degradation due to dust; but what happens when a junk of god knows what makes its way down there and sits between the IC and the pedal as you're mashing it? Bit of a worry.

    Sellers here have them at $399 (pre order, of course). That's a little higher than I'd hoped it would climb after conversion and shipping, and will take some more pondering. Plus I'm pretty cheap at the best of times...
     
  11. ADSTA

    ADSTA Registered

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    Sellers? Never heard of them. I'll have to have a squizz.

    Until that day comes along, rare for you but often for me, when in one pump the clutch becomes the "giver of life" after the engine stalls and you are still rolling.
    All hail the clutch pedal! :cool:

    Before anyone bites, I don't want to hear about any button or paddle clutch. ;)
     
  12. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    Don't think too hard :p I just meant the plural of 'seller'. JB, pagnian, the usual ones... $399 pre-order. It might be worth holding off and waiting for the competition to heat up, won't be long before fanatec throw hall sensors into their elites and then TM will probably drop the price on these to fit the pros in above and stay competitive.

    I've looked a little (very little...) into some of the hardware needed to convert existing pedals, but then I also saw a picture of someone's snapped T3PA brake pedal... so I'm thinking I might just wait till the price is right.
     
  13. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    Anyone received these yet? I'm assuming there would have been some slight delays given the situation, but shipments seem to still be happening fairly quickly. I'd be interested to hear some 'trusted' reviews, even if I'm unlikely to buy these anytime soon (attempting to fashion my own version onto my T3PA Pro base - which may or may not end well, but it's fun to try).
     
  14. Richard Busch

    Richard Busch Member

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    I got my set. Very nice, but will need to attach firmly to something. Pressing on the brake will tilt the whole pedal set forward. Just setting them on the floor won't work very well.
    A full review will be coming after I've used them for a little while.
     
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  15. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    Definitely will need to bolt them down to something. Not sure what your setup is but I used some timber to join my pedals to my office chair - a length of quite thin timber (about 3/4") between them, the pedals screwed onto a timber base which I then screw onto the main length, and some extra timber at the chair end to bring it up to the base of the chair (I made sure the chair I got has the gas cylinder poking down through the castor base - so I can place it into a hole in the timber). It's certainly not elegant or professional looking but it does the job :)

    (whether it'll do the job when I get a load cell brake set up, I'll see...)
     
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  16. davehenrie

    davehenrie Registered

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    Pictures please
     
  17. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    Mate... I don't want to make myself look any more amateur than I already have :p
     
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  18. Richard Busch

    Richard Busch Member

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    I had my T3PA pedal set mounted on a piece of plywood and raised it about two inches off the floor. It made a comfortable setup. With these new pedals, I'm going to attach two pieces of wood to the wood to the sides where my heels are and angle up to the back of my desk to try to hold down the pedal set.
    Thrustmaster does make a pedal stand. Might be my next purchase.

    http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/t-pedals-stand

    Yes, I'm a desktop driver.
     
  19. mantasisg

    mantasisg Registered

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    I hope my timber base that I just have pressed towards wall to avoid slipping forward won't be flipping.
     
  20. davehenrie

    davehenrie Registered

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    That stand looks specifically for T3pa and T3pa Pro pedals. I don't know if it would work with the new TM pedals.
     

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