Released NEW! Radical SR3 RSX 2017 - Now Available!

Discussion in 'News & Notifications' started by Christopher Elliott, Jul 1, 2017.

  1. Alex72

    Alex72 Registered

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    I found the FFB really good at start and its very tight (close to center FFB), but the more i driven it the more i realize the FFB is messed up in some way. It is rough like many say if you lower FFB smooth, but also i think thanks to the roughness there is very little detail coming through to the FFB? Switched to F2 2012 or Sparks F2 and there is so much small details coming through that isnt coming in the Radical.

    Still fun to drive for sure. Love that when you push it too much and drive like a moron you are punished. Will be great to see the update. Cant wait. :)
     
  2. kimbo

    kimbo Registered

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    try to put your wheel at 590-600 deg. and 20 lock, is another car.
     
  3. Juergen-BY

    Juergen-BY Registered

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    As there`s just one engine file, would be (afaik) not possible. OK, unless they found some new workarounds, to push the AI to the next level :D
     
  4. Alex72

    Alex72 Registered

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    Cool. gonna test that. Cheers man. :)

    @Juergen-BY You are the guru dude. Why do you think the AI is faster? What could it be? Sorry if i missed some talk about it. Just curious. :)
     
  5. peterchen

    peterchen Registered

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    Well in rF1 there existed indeed a parameter in the .HDV:
    [ENGINE]
    AIPowerMult=1.10

    But last time I checked this in rF2 (two years ago maybe) it didnĀ“t work.
     
  6. Alex72

    Alex72 Registered

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    @kimbo Daumn! That little setup change sure made the car feel awesome. :) Felt all details and real fun to drive. Just too bad AI is seconds faster, grrrrr. :D

    @Christopher Elliott While you are working on the Radical maybe you can see if you guys can up just a little bass on the engine sound? When im on my headphones (good ones) the bass is really low on this car specifically. Just throwing that out there in case you guys can do something about it without getting new sounds. :)
     
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  7. bravotangosix

    bravotangosix Registered

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    I'd assume that there's very little bass in the sounds due to it being a Suzuki motorbike engine. ;)
     
  8. Alex72

    Alex72 Registered

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    Absolutely, but its nothing at all. CrewChief voice is bassier than the engine. :D Oh well its no biggie. We'll see.
     
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  9. Adrianstealth

    Adrianstealth Registered

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    Rfactor2's Radical is brill

    Although I find myself wanting more power I'm now really enjoying the SR3 all the same (I usually go for hard to handle very twitchy sim cars) it's a mighty fine sim car and really enjoying rfactor2 and looking forward to any SR3 updates
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2017
  10. Nimugp

    Nimugp Registered

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    are you also intersted being updated that it is a SR3, not 4? :p
     
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  11. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Registered

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    What do you mean? Could you please explain in more detail?
     
  12. kimbo

    kimbo Registered

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    In game, options,controller display,steering wheel range, put 600, then load the track, go to garage, general, wheel range (lock) by default is 540-24, you put 450-20, that's all.
     
  13. patchedupdemon

    patchedupdemon Registered

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    So basically run a ration and range that isn't realistic to the car
     
  14. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Registered

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    I'm a bit thick :( whats the 20 part of 450-20 ?
     
  15. Lazza

    Lazza Registered

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    @2ndLastJedi car setup steering lock. Wheel rotation (first part) makes steering less sensitive as you go higher, while setup steering lock makes steering more sensitive as you go higher.
     
  16. Alex72

    Alex72 Registered

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    The "rotation" is in the control part of the menu where you set FFB strength, smooth etc while "lock" is in the setup menu. I think the car is set to 25 or 27 lock originally (cant remember atm).
     
  17. ucfquattroguy

    ucfquattroguy Registered

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    Just ran about 20-30 laps at Silverstone in the RHD car. I can't really say it drives bad/horrible/wrong/etc. However, I will say that you must learn now the car "wants" to be driven. Based on the feedback in this thread (and others), I softened the front ARB one click and stiffened the rear ARB one click (people said the car understeers, etc). Big tip is to get your FFB multiplier set right. Once you get rid of the clipping, you'll start to feel what it's doing.

    This is a car that will not rotate and roll through the corner like a lot of cars. It WANTS you to have some throttle applied. Brake, turn-in (trail-braking or not...depends on the corner entry type), then start rolling into the throttle. You'll notice the rear-end immediately respond by rotating the car through the rest of the corner onto the exit. That said, if you treat the throttle like an On/Off switch, it will want to kill you. When I say "some throttle", there are times where all you need is to barely have any input at all.

    Just as a reference, I was running 2:08's and 2:09s with at least a second or so improvement left on the table (for me, at least). There was a barely visible base layer of rubber already laid down.
     
  18. muz_j

    muz_j Registered

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    I did a couple of online races in it over the weekend and all in all, I've found it a very easy car to get to grips with.
    I probably run it a bit non-standard - for example I generally turn the steering lock on most cars I drive up to make the steering responsive. I guess I'm not a stickler for absolute realism in that respect. I was always driving the RHD version, as I'm from NZL and that's what we have here, so it seems more natural for me.

    I did find the car wanting to spin on a couple of corners at high speed, until I got the suspension dialed in with the help of another friendly gamer. I compared setups, then trialled the other person's rear suspension settings and found them much better. The car was significantly more planted and the one corner I was struggling with suddenly became much easier to hold a tight line at speed on.
    So all in all I love the car...but in my experience so far, you need to do a little bit (not much) of tweaking to get the handling sorted....well that's my view and like anything - your mileage may vary.
    I'll compare my lap times against yours purely out of curiosity when I get home. I'll own up in advance to being pretty quick on a lot of tracks offline, but I was consistently towards the back of the group of racers I was playing with online. But I'm happy with that under the circumstances :)
     
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  19. muz_j

    muz_j Registered

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    Most places quote 260 HP - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radical_Sportscars
    But there are a few listing 225 like you say - http://www.radicalsportscars.com/car/sr3/

    The only decent explanation I can think of would be a variations in how the horsepower is being measured. i.e. measuring crankshaft horsepower on a dyno, versus rear wheel horsepower. here's a really crazy example difference - http://www.boostaddict.com/content....-V10-dyno-output-to-the-Ferrari-458-Italia-V8

    I ride a sports motorcycle and you find most manufacturers will quote their bike's HP figure from the crankshaft in promotional information, where as in reality, the rear wheel horsepower will always be a little bit less. A good example is this discussion on a Honda Fireblade - http://www.fireblades.org/forums/ge...1000rr-rear-wheel-hp-what-dealer-told-me.html
    154 HP at the crank and about 140 HP at the rear wheel. - or about 90% of the claimed figure.
    Take our Radical with 260 HP and multiply that by .9 and we get 234 - which is not far off the 225 HP. So I'd suspect the mechanical losses in the drive train are higher than 10%.

    ....that's my theory anyway - but in this particular case, I could be completely wrong :)
     
  20. trindade

    trindade Registered

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    Having the same problem with the ffb others reported. T500 here. The car looks nice and sound even better but with this ffb it's a no go for me.
     

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